Agree, only 2nd best,
But its a start...
The final frontier is dyno tune....IF the person knows WTH they are doing?

 

Eheheh... thats what you think.

I've been doing street tuning with my powervision 2B and it's gotten some ok results. Fuel Economy is definitely well below my previous cam and it's definitely a tune issue because the MPG testing data is from my interstate runs.

I think maybe the Powervision likes to run a bit more rich or something. Dyno tuning will probably yield much better end results in terms of fuel economy and power.

 

.These new bikes don't have a throttle control table. You can turn off the traction control but not torque control. You have a "Requested Torque Control" table. It has "+" numbers for acceleration and "-" numbers for the decel area. The ecm uses this to control the throttle blade and doesn't use the tgs to control the blade. There are tables to force the ecm to read the tgs instead but should only be used for tuning. Using the "override' tables on an RDRS bike messes with the RDRS.

 

In capable hands there is no question. The dyno can hold a throttle position and rpm all day long to collect data. On the street how long can you stay there?

 

Not necessarily.

I've been doing some street tuning of a new exhaust using my PV and the Smart Tune Pro, using the PowerVision's "autotune" learning feature with the Target Tune profile, and have developed a regimen that appears to satisfy the tuner's requirements while staying fully legal (meaning, you don't have to break speed limits or drive recklessly).

By satisfying the tuner's requirements, I mean hitting nearly every cell in the PV's TPS/RPM matrix. According to FM, they say "you're going to want to put that thing in as many different throttle positions and RPM ranges as you can." That's exactly what my system does, and it methodically hits almost every box, especially above 2000 RPM. And it's not hard, and it doesn't take long at all, and it's not illegal. It just requires a decently long stretch of a really quiet road, out in the country somewhere usually, that has a good speed limit like 55 or above. In Texas we're covered in those roads, the Farm To Market roads are usually 55 mph, and there are plenty of them that get very little traffic at all.

 

I have done adjusting sessions.

 

Adding to your post,
My method for street tuning is to do a lot of it on the freeway where I can get 5~6000RPM on the freeway in 3rd/4th gear.
Doing 80~85 over on the freeway isn't exactly a federal crime, people do that all the time.
I'll get into the slow lane and drop down in gears down to 45~50, and then hammer on the throttle in lower gears to get high RPM hits.

Generally I'll go and warm up the bike, then start AT, and then use a few road types to get high RPM hits and different situations.
1. A Windy Twisty road that I can ride really hard.
2. Freeway hauling *** the way out, doing lots of variations in RPM
3. Cruise the freeway distance back doing cruising RPM and high gear at low speed, to get some extra hits down low and get the bike to slowly climb through the RPM.
I've gotten some significant improvements doing that.

 

I take it you get your tunes from FM? ever stop to wonder if the canned are almost perfect why they dont send bikes out with them? It is because it is a base map and base map only. Auto tune only calibrates fuel tables and there is so much more to a tune than that. I spent 30K on my bike and and another 300.00 for a proper Tune is not going to break me. I know my bike is running right and I am not wondering what it is doing.

 

Is there anyone that thinks a canned tune is perfect? If so, they're sorely misinformed.

Even if a tune is done on one bike to perfection, putting it into another bike with the exact same equipment is never going to be perfect. Manufacturing tolerances, wear and tear, etc all add up to ANY tune needing to be optimized on the actual bike running the actual equipment it's running. That's why we're talking about AT LEAST using the "autotune" or "smart tune" capability of modern tuners.

Note, you don't HAVE to tune a stock bike, it will run fine on the tune it comes with. But it could run better, and especially as the miles rack up on it, adjusting the tune is always a good idea.

 

Stick bikes run fine
Add on tuners make bike run better,, maybe
using a dyno and person, better, most likely.

What do you want? What can you afford ( locally is $550-$800), what can you live with.

No same answer for everyone