My 02 is a 103 also. 111HP/119TQ with 3.37 primary gearing also. Stock clutch and SE spring hold it fine and don't have the issues of an extra plate clutch pack or a super heavy spring. My advise, get a set of new, oem plates and steels with a Screaming Eagle spring and give that a try with the Muller. Leave the extra disc out of the Barnett pack if that's an option and try the SE spring. As I mentioned, the Muller does not like the extra plate clutches. Not enough throw. I have short fingers and hand issues also, the Muller arm is a God send.
Someone did suggest removing the extra disk, not an option. Here's another interesting find, I measured the thickness of all the plates-both the old stock set and the new Barnett pack. The total stack of the HD set totaled 1.004", the Barnett were a total stack height of .814". That's nearly .200" difference. Just for laughs I tried removing the extra plate(s) and the pressure plate wouldn't come close to touching the disc pack even after torqueing it to spec. Also, this difference of more that 3/6" reflects greatly on the available adjustment at the plate and the clutch cable. I have the cable adjustment extended to the max, It's set on the last thread in order to make up that .200" less stack height than the oem pack. I agree with your recommendation but I'm ***** deep into this Barnett so--- I'll try a couple more avenues and get back to all of you in the coming day or two.
Thanks for the input everyone
My engine is a 103 and with all of the upgrades 102hp and 113 torque. I know that's not huge but when the clutch started to fail at the end of last season I thought the heavy spring would be a good add on and hopefully lengthen the life of the new Barnett. I wasn't anticipating the issues that followed. It's been a learning experience for sure.
That kind of power could have easily been handled by adding the police model diaphragm spring to the stock clutch. The Mueller release might have worked with that for a lighter pull. My advice to anyone that feels the need for a clutch to handle more power is the Rekluse Torq-Drive. It adds four to six plates and allows for more holding power with lighter springs. If you have condition that makes pulling the lever taxing, the Rekluse RadiusX is a centrifugal clutch that can be used manually. There is a member that installed this clutch on a bike making 150+ ft/lb of torque with success.
I intend on putting the Muller in my 24 road glide. For those have it in the newer bikes and claim it is finicky to adjust, where is the lever engaging from the grip? I rode mine home from the dealer for the first time yesterday and the clutch isn’t engaging until the lever is almost all the way out. It was a far cry from my 19 that had the Muller hydraulic slave that engaged right off the grip. Also, I assume the pn# for the Muller power clutch would be the same as for a 23? They don’t list for a 24 yet but I don’t think anything changed.
I intend on putting the Muller in my 24 road glide. For those have it in the newer bikes and claim it is finicky to adjust, where is the lever engaging from the grip? I rode mine home from the dealer for the first time yesterday and the clutch isn’t engaging until the lever is almost all the way out. It was a far cry from my 19 that had the Muller hydraulic slave that engaged right off the grip. Also, I assume the pn# for the Muller power clutch would be the same as for a 23? They don’t list for a 24 yet but I don’t think anything changed.
My 21 RGS was terrible when new from the dealer. Like yours, engaged almost all the way out, no cable free play and couldn't stand a chance of finding neutral at a stop. They obviously don't check and or don't know how to set/adjust a clutch. I fixed that when I got it home. I set my Mullers the same as non, engage right off the grip which is where I like it. The first thing to do is **** can that ridiculous self adjusting cable adjuster and go with the FBI threaded adjuster.
The Muller runs tighter adjustments than stock. Completely slack the cable, then at the clutch pack, loosen the 11/16" jam nut, run the threaded adjuster in and out a few times past the point of feeling it get resistance (you will watch the clutch disengage slightly) ensure the Muller arm is in the home position. now back off the threaded throwout rod adjuster and screw it in until you feel it make light contact. back it out 1/8 to 1/4 turn (I go 1/8) and while holding the threaded rod, tighten the 11/16 nut. Now set your cable free play by adjusting the FBI adjuster out. This is where it gets finicky, Muller wants 5mm (about 1/8" or same size as a nickle and penny together. On my M8, I had some slippage with this and also clutch engaged further out. I put in a bit more free play and no more slip and engages off the grip.
I have my Mullers machined to accept the Baker heavy duty throw out bearing. The diameter of the throw out bearing seat in the arm needs to be slightly larger. Easy 5 minute job on a lathe. The larger throw out bearing is good insurance in my book when running the tighter, 1/8 turn out on the throw out rod adjustment. It's just what several others and I do. It's not required. If you do find yourself having slight drag cold, it will go away once warmed up. I continue to adjust until it works cold and hot. The stock, 21* ramps I always have set at 3/4 turn out (calls for 1/2 to 1 turn) but that is just to much for the Muller and it's 18* ramps.
You want to be cautious as to how far you open the OD up of the relief for the throw out bearing. Since the ramp pockets are closer to the center of the ramp bodies, you can break into them from the other side if you go too large in diameter. I've been going 0.950" and been successful with that. The Baker BD411-56 thrust washer is 0.909" diameter, so the 0.950" relief is enough.
You want to be cautious as to how far you open the OD up of the relief for the throw out bearing. Since the ramp pockets are closer to the center of the ramp bodies, you can break into them from the other side if you go too large in diameter. I've been going 0.950" and been successful with that. The Baker BD411-56 thrust washer is 0.909" diameter, so the 0.950" relief is enough.
I think that is what I went also. No problems with either of the two I have. Just open the OD, don't go deeper. That would be an expensive mistake. Do you do your adjustments the same as I described also? I have a procedure that No Cents gave me that is a bit different but I'm a bit more comfortable with the procedure I outlined.
Pretty close to what I do. I go 1/4 turn. And I use a dime (about 0.055") to space the clutch lever free play. You end up with a little more free play when the transmission comes to operating temperature.
04-14-2024, 12:40 PM
