I don't know, but what I do know is that after many years of racing I'll only change one thing at a time toward whatever goal I'm trying to achieve. No sense in wasting money, right? In this case, nothing more is necessary for my wife's needs, and she's a skinny 61 year old weakling. She loves the improvement.

 

I installed a new Barnett extra plate clutch and heavier spring in my 06 Electra this spring and I continue to struggle with it dragging, no way I can find neutral while idling in gear. I knew there would be a narrower "sweet spot" when it came to making the adjustments just right but Damn, I still haven't found it yet! I've tried every little hack I've heard about except grinding the clutch lever to allow a longer pull, and if I could find a custom lever that would allow a longer reach I know it would work. I did get rid of the dragging by over adjusting the cable too tight, but this would make the throw out bearing stay engaged and burn it out in no time. Beyond all of this, I'm about to toss the heavy spring and the muller then go back to the stock set up. I'm really disappointed. And by the way, prior to installing the Muller I measured my clutch pull with a spring scale, it was about thirty four pounds to pull it back. After the Muller was installed it took twenty four pounds pull. That certainly not 45%, that's more like 30% improvement.

 

Muller's work well but are finicky to adjust. I have them in my 2002 FLHTC and 2021 FLTRXS. I installed an Alto Carbonate extra plate clutch pack also. The Muller would not work well with that set up. Same issues as yours. With the shallower (18*) ramps and slightly longer arm, there just isn't enough leverage to get proper throw out. I reinstalled the OE clutch pack with SE spring and all is well. You need to know how much throw out you are getting. Take a dial indicator and measure your throw out at the clutch basket (off the plate where the 11/16" adjuster is). Attach a piece of metal flat stock to two holes for the derby cover as a spot to hold the mag base. My 02 measures 0.065 and the 21 measures 0.063. This is with the adjuster backed off 1/8 turn from light seat and 1/8" (5mm) free play between the ferrell and clutch perch on the 02. On the 21, I had to run more free play at the cable as I had some clutch slip with the cable tighter. I like it better as the release is right off the grip now. 0.070 throw out is desired but the 0.065 & 0.063 work fine. I also machine the inner ramp diameter slightly larger to accept a Baker heavy duty throw out bearing which is larger.

Both of my Muller's provide a substantial difference in the clutch pull with heavier clutch springs. The OE 21* ramps are the optimum IMO but a pain in traffic etc with small short fingered hands like mine. Clutch cables used to have a long thread to screw into the release cover. That allowed the use of a White Bro's Easy Boy or Burly Brand device on the arm of the 21* ramp with a spacer on the threads of the cable. That set up worked very well.

 

Until this last Thursday, I had a 2023 Police Electra Glide (FLTHP) and I put a Muller Power Clutch on it. I did the installation myself but now I'm into my 60's with arthritis in both hands, I'm not as gung ho on laying on the garage floor turning wrenches for an hour or two. Only thing was that it can be a pain getting the clutch adjusted properly. Seemed it either wasn't fully engaging or fully disengaging depending on how I had it adjusted. Finally got it right a few months ago. Clutch effort was probably about 40% easier than it was before. On Thursday, I sold it and bought a 2024 Road Glide and put installation of a power clutch in the deal. Can't wait to get it installed which will happen this coming Tuesday. Maybe I'm spoiled, but the 2024 clutch takes a lot of pull and it's hard for me to use clutch slippage when I need to. From what I was told by the dealer, some of the engine/transmission sensors on the 2024's require the bike be plugged into the computer for whatever reason. I can't say if that was smoke and mirrors or not, but at this point with my bad hands, the 2 hours labor to install is money well spent.
And.... before I get flamed, I'll get pictures up soon as I open some accessory boxes and install some other mods on my new scooter.

 

Yes, they are picky, but when adjusted right, they work great.

 

Here's an update on my struggle. First of all, let me point out that I also installed a heavier clutch spring with this new Barnet extra plate kit and of coarse this is why the need for the muller. Just like you Popeye, when I got the clutch nut and clutch cable set to engage things as it should, the clutch would not totally disengage when the lever was totally pulled back, it was impossible to find neutral at a stop. Robbing Peter to pay Paul, right? I find that the pressure plate should be traveling about .065 or more as you actuate the lever in order to totally engage and disengage the clutch plates properly, I was getting about half of that. To shorten the story, this time I did nothing other than put the lighter stock spring back in and did another check with a dial indicator and suddenly I have .065 travel at the pressure plate. It seems very evident now that the culprit for this lack of pressure plate travel is my clutch cable flexing under the heavier pull, even in spite of the assist that the muller provides. I just put on some apes and that required a longer cable and I could see that cable trying to straighten out (where it was curved to fit) after installing the heavy diaphragm spring. I took some readings with a spring scale and found that with the Heavy spring, the scale read 35lb. to pull back the clutch lever. Then with the Muller it was 25lb (but still can't get it properly operable). Today with the stock HD spring it only took 15lb. to pull the lever. and I get the proper pressure plate travel of .065 - .070. I test ride this thing on Monday and I'm expecting this saga to finally be over! It's riding season now!

 

I would also like to know from those who had good luck with the Muller, if they had also up-graded to a heavier clutch spring. This is a big difference in the comparison picture of all of this. Thanks.

 

SE spring on my 2002. The Muller would not fully disengage when I ran an extra plate clutch. How much power are you putting out that you feel you need the extra plate and crazy spring?

 

My engine is a 103 and with all of the upgrades 102hp and 113 torque. I know that's not huge but when the clutch started to fail at the end of last season I thought the heavy spring would be a good add on and hopefully lengthen the life of the new Barnett. I wasn't anticipating the issues that followed. It's been a learning experience for sure.

 

My 02 is a 103 also. 111HP/119TQ with 3.37 primary gearing also. Stock clutch and SE spring hold it fine and don't have the issues of an extra plate clutch pack or a super heavy spring. My advise, get a set of new, oem plates and steels with a Screamin Eagle spring and give that a try with the Muller. Leave the extra disc out of the Barnett pack if that's an option and try the SE spring. As I mentioned, the Muller does not like the extra plate clutches. Not enough throw. I have short fingers and hand issues also, the Muller arm is a God send.