I’ve been reading a S-ton of threads about torque cams. The FM shootout, SE vs aftermarket, etc., and while at first, I was looking at the Harley torque cam, tuned with a PV4, some others cams into view as well. The woods 22x, the 468, etc. but one thing that hasn’t been addressed with any of these cams much is the noise factor of them. Any fast ramping short duration high lift cam is going to be noisy. Noisy I cannot stand. My last bike, an ‘09 TC ultra, had a 96” and an Andrews 48. Loved the cam, and loved it even more when I went 103 with it, but the noise and tapping of it drive me absolutely nuts. It rode great but I heard the valve train more than the exhaust. In my own personal world, I don’t care about lope or loudness, I care about performance and quiet-easier-on-the-valvetrain power. So the question being, out of all the torque cams popular right now, how quiet, really, is the valve train with these? I’m looking for something with torque, mostly riding in the 2000- 4000 rpm range, sometimes 2 up, in a bagger with a 114, decatted stock head pipe with V&H hi outputs with DB reducers in them, and at least as quiet a valvetrain that I have now, stock. The exhaust with the db reducers has a nice, “peaceful” low growl, some back pressure for the M8’s finickiness, so I’m good there, just want some torque without a ton of valvetrain clicking and clacking, or wearing out the lifter bores in 20k. Suggestions?

 

I went with the Red Shift 468 in my 107 M8. Valve train was quiet before install, valve train is as quiet or maybe even quieter after install and new lifters etc. About 25,000 kms since cam install and no issues. I am actually amazed at how quiet the top end of this M8 engine is compared to my previous Twin-Cam.

Only sound I hear when riding is that fabulous exhaust note. Well, that and of course David Allan Coe blasting out of the Boom Stage II audio : )

One last thing, I wanted a torque cam as well and the 468 definitely delivers in that regard. I would recommend this cam to anyone who is looking for a noticeable boost in bottom end torque and overall performance.

 

RS468 with a good set of USA made lifters. Personally, I'd go with S&S lifters and their Quickie pushrods to avoid having to remove the rocker boxes. And I'd upgrade the cam chain sprocket on the crankshaft. When the cam cover is off and chain tensioner removed, the sprocket fit on the pinion shaft is sloppy and allows the cam timing to be off +- 3-4 degrees. I used a Fueling sprocket and the fit was tight as it should be and the cam chest and rocker boxes are quiet.

Lots of people replace the lifter cuffs, and I did as well. I think it's optional for the most part, but I didn't like the idea that plastic parts were holding the lifters in place. If you decide to replace the cuffs, watch a video on how to heat the cuff bolt before removing it as they have been known to break off in the case. Which you really want to avoid. I used hand tools and didn't try to force the bolt to turn and had no problems.

You don't say what this is going in, but if it's an 2017 through early 2019 production, replace the oil pump with the latest HD pump with the additional seal that is supposed to help with sumping. Or when you get it apart, if the pump does not have the additional seal, upgrade the pump as needed. And you should check the run out on the pinion shaft while in there.

Paul

 

I put the SE torque cam in 107 M8. No noticeable noise issue before or after.

 

@ pgreer

it would be going in a 2020 114 ultra.

 

I have a 22x with woods lifters and FM pushrods. No clicking or clacking. I think it's actually more quiet than stock. Definitely
more so than any twin cam I've had.

 

The oil pump is likely optional since being a 2020 model, it should have the latest pump with seal already. But I'd still replace the lifters, along with a free flowing exhaust (or decatted header) and air cleaner with either a tune from a good source or an actual Dyno tune. I used a Dynojet PV from FM and have been happy with the performance and largely unchanged fuel mileage. If I twist the throttle often, the fuel economy will suffer, but that is to be expected.

I think the RS468 would be a good option for that bike because the torque comes on fairly early, but not exactly right off of idle. The Dyno sheet shows torque above 100 ft lbs just below 2k RPM's and peaking at 129 ft lbs at about 3k RPM's and continuing with a fairly flat curve above 120 ft lbs to about 5k RPM's. You might consider looking at the Dyno sheets for different cams on the FuelMoto site. It would pull nicely on a roll on acceleration, like when passing a vehicle.

Paul

 

I noticed more of a sound change from removing the cat than I did switching to TTS150 cams.

 

There’s two for the rs468. I’ve read where it’s a bit harder to tune that cam, even with a power vision, any issues with the pv4 canned map?

 

Each cam listed in the link for the Fuel Moto M8 cam shootout has a spot listing valve train noise.

https://university.fuelmotousa.com/a...haft-shootout/