I appreciate your experience ... I have over 40 ... also owned my own shop ..
. Your turn ;>
... and yes patience is the key in however you approach it
I've not, more in the last sentence..
Originally Posted by d_slat
I love posts like this. just because you haven't experienced something doesn't mean it isn't true. In this situation the style extractors you linked to suck. The ridgid extractors are probably the best I've used because they won't expand the broken bolt and wedge it in the hole, plus you can turn the broken bolt both directions and work it loose/out.
Welding a nut to what remains of the bolt works great for applications such as this. Whatever you do, heat is your friend here. Penetrating oil can also help by reducing friction, just be careful not to start a fire. Probably the best penetrating oil I've used is Kano Kroil. It's not cheap, but sometimes you get what you pay for.
I love even more, posts like yours, where people can't understand their own language (bold).
Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Personally I wouldn't use those extractors, They are for pipes and have a high helix..
I've used but the tapered std helix and straight tapered screw extractors and by far the Rigid setup is better. Like D_slat says you can wiggle it back and forth.. I've all used LH drills. Nut welding. Even pin punches to get the easy ones out..
They are for what?
You do understand that there's machinery other than tiny engines on a bike or the workbenches, right?
And what it might imply?
Originally Posted by Kenelz
Easy out/extractors are the last resort for me, many things can go wrong, ie: drill break, extractor break, etc.
The nut over the stud and fill works for me. Stick or MIG, that leaves one hand free to hold the nut.
I'm in the "heat is your friend" camp for locktight.
Same reply as above.
Long story short: you people use whatever you like.
I've been using what thousands of engineers and mechanics are using in my industry.
Never mind,, they do claim they work on screws. I've not used that particular brand. Still don't like the high helix.
BTW we are discussing small stuff..
I don't even know the brand - it was just example of extractors I've been using for all kinds of bolts.
And did it on small bolts as well.
They do work for people who know their stuff BUT as with ANY other thing, something possibly could wrong.
Originally Posted by Uncle Larry
@JED POLAND ... Please don't take our comments so seriously .... We all make choices everyday based on our preferences and experiences
I don't take them seriously - I simply find it funny, how people try to bash other ideas (mine in this case) not even knowing what experience one might have.
And please note: unlike them I didn't say anything about their ideas - it was just an example of the tool which proven to be super useful in many shitty, critical situations - not in some, with all due respect, workshops or garages.
I undone 100s of Loctite-secured bolts and never in my life used a heat on them, to "break" Loctite.
Now, it the bolt's snapped even with the surface, there's nothing better then set of good bolt extractors, i.e: Bolt extractors
And I have extracted hundreds (at least) as well. I stand by my post about using heat. There are many types of thread compound, and to suggest that heat is not useful is not good advice. The lack of heat while removing played a part in this particular bolt failure
Straight flute extractors are superior for this job, only because they do not expand the fastener. The ones you listed have many uses as well. Those have saved my bacon out in the field with busted NPT fittings, etc. I might challenge the brand and model you chose.
I saw your other posts. No need to argue here, just trying to give OP solid advice on known-good solutions in the engine industry. What industry were you speaking of in your more recent posts? Just curious, since you brought it up.
I have charged my customers good money for extracting some very "challenging" fasteners in engines. They have happily paid for these solutions.
OP looks like you have the right guys on the job, I am sure you will have it all taken care of soon!!
Glad I read this thread, as I said earlier the service manual says nothing about heating the bolt to remove or applying lock tight. Have thought about replacing the cuffs with the S@S ones and will for sure remember to heat the bolt before removing. A 00 tip on an oxy acetylene torch I think would work good in pre heating the bolt.
Had Rayearth picked up and off to a shop that knows harleys.
Guy in the hat talked about the welding a nut to the stud trick.
I think these guys will be able to get it out, and bring my bike back so I can finish this oilpump upgrade and cam install.
(I asked their permission if it was ok to use them in the video/photos), these guys are from Lockrem Cyclebarn.
Motorcycle and fabrication shop.
So it looks like you put it all back together for them to pick it up and take it to the shop, or am I missing something?
I would have left the push rods, push rod tubes, and lifter blocks off so the shop would not have to deal with it.
07-09-2022, 06:19 AM
