Add:
Set a nut over the stud, point the mig wire in the hole and pull the trigger.
Tig requires a torch and filler in the same hole.. Could be hard to control the arc on the torch.
I've done it many times over the years using a mig ....Actually back in the day I used a Lincoln Hot Box a couple of times ... The equipment is only as good as the operator ;>)
...and as far as screw extractors are concerned I'd use the kind Max referenced ( spline type ) before using an East Out ... the extreme taper on the Easy Out can tend to bind the fastener you're trying to remove ... My two cents that may be worth more than that
If "Easy Outs" is what I suggested then I can tell you that they never failed on me.
Nie, that's 27 years of my professional experience - which I am not saying is worth more than your two cents.
Peace.
I undone 100s of Loctite-secured bolts and never in my life used a heat on them, to "break" Loctite.
Now, it the bolt's snapped even with the surface, there's nothing better then set of good bolt extractors, i.e: Bolt extractors
I love posts like this.
just because you haven't experienced something doesn't mean it isn't true. In this situation the style extractors you linked to suck. The ridgid extractors are probably the best I've used because they won't expand the broken bolt and wedge it in the hole, plus you can turn the broken bolt both directions and work it loose/out.
Welding a nut to what remains of the bolt works great for applications such as this. Whatever you do, heat is your friend here. Penetrating oil can also help by reducing friction, just be careful not to start a fire. Probably the best penetrating oil I've used is Kano Kroil. It's not cheap, but sometimes you get what you pay for.
I undone 100s of Loctite-secured bolts and never in my life used a heat on them, to "break" Loctite.
Now, it the bolt's snapped even with the surface, there's nothing better then set of good bolt extractors, i.e: Bolt extractors
Personally I wouldn't use those extractors, They are for pipes and have a high helix..
I've used but the tapered std helix and straight tapered screw extractors and by far the Rigid setup is better. Like D_slat says you can wiggle it back and forth.. I've all used LH drills. Nut welding. Even pin punches to get the easy ones out..
One thing for sure, when I changed the lifters on my M8 RK. It took more than an hour to get all the tappet cover screws and the lifter cuff screws out. I could get them to move a little and they'd get tight so it was back and forth with penetrating oil until they'd free up enough to get another turn..
Easy out/extractors are the last resort for me, many things can go wrong, ie: drill break, extractor break, etc.
The nut over the stud and fill works for me. Stick or MIG, that leaves one hand free to hold the nut.
I'm in the "heat is your friend" camp for locktight.
One thing for sure, when I changed the lifters on my M8 RK. It took more than an hour to get all the tappet cover screws and the lifter cuff screws out. I could get them to move a little and they'd get tight so it was back and forth with penetrating oil until they'd free up enough to get another turn..
I had similar experience with mine. I'll add that I made sure to use the shortest handle 1/4"ratchet I own, so I know just how much torque I'm applying to the tiny bolts and have a better feel for when it's time to go the other direction to avoid breaking them.
Had Rayearth picked up and off to a shop that knows harleys.
Guy in the hat talked about the welding a nut to the stud trick.
I think these guys will be able to get it out, and bring my bike back so I can finish this oilpump upgrade and cam install.
(I asked their permission if it was ok to use them in the video/photos), these guys are from Lockrem Cyclebarn.
Motorcycle and fabrication shop.
Had Rayearth picked up and off to a shop that knows harleys.
Guy in the hat talked about the welding a nut to the stud trick.
I think these guys will be able to get it out, and bring my bike back so I can finish this oilpump upgrade and cam install.
(I asked their permission if it was ok to use them in the video/photos), these guys are from Lockrem Cyclebarn.
Motorcycle and fabrication shop.
Thanks! I aint done with him yet. I got lots of stuff vanity stuff still left to do.
I still got new monoshock with no RAP so I can switch to the full side panel, recoloring side panel Golden, chrome heated grips, Live To Ride covers, Chrome trim, spray painting a few parts silver, Big Brake rotor kit,
Can't wait to finish up, and start touring.
07-08-2022, 05:52 PM
