Heat gun much less chance of messing something up . Use one a fair amount.

 

I have an idea. Find a softer grade bolt the same size as the original snapped off size. Shorten it to fit low in the lifter block, then using a drill press, bore a small hole into the shortened bolt, insert in lifter block, install lifter block with shortened bolt. Now, using shortened bolt as a guide, drill into the snapped bolt, increasing in size until you just short of the threads in the block.

Just a thought, I hope it helps.

 

This question is open to anyone but since FranBunny was just doing this I quoted her.

It was obvious in the Fuel Moto link they were more specifically heating the case rather than the bolt. Which makes sense to loosen the thread locker.
FranBunny when you heated things up and got the first bolt out did you go back and apply more heat before attempting to take the second one out ?
Would you think concentrating on one side and then the other be of help ?

A friend at coffee this morning was saying that his son is going the change these blocks on his M8 tonight.
I got call into him to see if the boy knows about this.

Thanks for your time folks

WP

 

Per university.fuelmoto.com "Fortunately we’ve found an effective, easy step which has eliminated the issues we were encountering. Once we have the cam chest disassembled we use a heat gun to heat the engine case from the inner cam chest side (as shown in the image below), it only takes about 5 minutes of heat and the bolt’s screw out with ease."



Not trying to beat you up, but you didn't follow the instructions they were giving, as they heat the bolts from below. As Ip said "Aluminum (case) and steel (fastener) expand at different ratios. Heating both actually loosens their connection...". Since this is a blind hole, heating from below causes the aluminum to expand and the loctite to loosen while probably affecting the bolt itself very little. The aluminum expands, the bolt doesn't, so the bolt extracts easily.
Had you done as they instructed you probably would have gotten the bolt out without breaking it, although that is not 100% guaranteed.

 

Not trying to snap back at you but I didnt see this article until AFTER the bolt had snapped.
All I had ever heard was to heat the bolt up for a little while then take it out.
I'd never seen Fuelmoto's instructions... until AFTER I posted this thread. How would I have been able to follow instructions I was never given.

 

Yes, I heated the first bolt from above, and it came out just fine.
Rear cylinder I repeated the same step and the bolt broke.

I didnt know I needed to heat it from the bottom, as I had never seen the FuelMoto Article on it. I only ever saw the FuelMoto Article after the incident and started searching for a solution of what to do. I'd just heard and read advice from others before then.
I was actually using my heat gun on all of the bolts around the tappets to make them easier to remove. I'd put the narrow tip of my heat gun, set it to 850*F and heat the bolt up for like a minute or so. Bolt heads hot enough to not be able to touch them with my fingers without being burned.
I now know that was futile and pointless. The heat has to go into the case itself from below.

Blast heat to the case where the bolt sinks into.

 

She hates it when I post her picture :>)

 

I tend to use my ancient soldering iron (that looks like a chisel) on these kind of things if they feel even a little stubborn. I've found blue and red red loctite on too many small bolts/fasteners than I can count. Seems like it helps the PB blaster work on rusted crap better too.

 

If a “mechanic” claims to be a certified aircraft mechanic and the FAA didn’t certify him it won’t be long before he is doing prison time.
this statement is certifiable

 

Reading this thread should be worth one college credit hour (with no student loan). I miss lock washers.