Lifter Cuff Bolt broke, not sure what to do now.
#91
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So it looks like you put it all back together for them to pick it up and take it to the shop, or am I missing something?
I would have left the push rods, push rod tubes, and lifter blocks off so the shop would not have to deal with it.
Something seems amiss to me.
I would have left the push rods, push rod tubes, and lifter blocks off so the shop would not have to deal with it.
Something seems amiss to me.
I just put the tappet blocks and the pushrod tubes back in so I could seal off the engine while it was on a truck/trailer. I dont want debris getting in there.
They don't have to worry about taking much apart. it's 2 snugged bolts on tappet block, and the pushrod tubes arent clipped in. Will take less than 60 seconds to get them off.
I wanted to make sure nothing could get into that engine case.
The rest of the engine is still sitting in a box on my apartment floor, waiting to be installed.
Last edited by FranBunnyFFXII; 07-09-2022 at 11:06 AM.
#92
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Gdańsk, Poland/Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
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And I have extracted hundreds (at least) as well. I stand by my post about using heat. There are many types of thread compound, and to suggest that heat is not useful is not good advice. The lack of heat while removing played a part in this particular bolt failure
Straight flute extractors are superior for this job, only because they do not expand the fastener. The ones you listed have many uses as well. Those have saved my bacon out in the field with busted NPT fittings, etc. I might challenge the brand and model you chose.
I saw your other posts. No need to argue here, just trying to give OP solid advice on known-good solutions in the engine industry. What industry were you speaking of in your more recent posts? Just curious, since you brought it up.
I have charged my customers good money for extracting some very "challenging" fasteners in engines. They have happily paid for these solutions.
OP looks like you have the right guys on the job, I am sure you will have it all taken care of soon!!![Icon Beerchug](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_beerchug.gif)
Straight flute extractors are superior for this job, only because they do not expand the fastener. The ones you listed have many uses as well. Those have saved my bacon out in the field with busted NPT fittings, etc. I might challenge the brand and model you chose.
I saw your other posts. No need to argue here, just trying to give OP solid advice on known-good solutions in the engine industry. What industry were you speaking of in your more recent posts? Just curious, since you brought it up.
I have charged my customers good money for extracting some very "challenging" fasteners in engines. They have happily paid for these solutions.
OP looks like you have the right guys on the job, I am sure you will have it all taken care of soon!!
![Icon Beerchug](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_beerchug.gif)
2. IF the right thread locker has been used along with proper TQ, no need for any heat, anywhere - unless we're talking old bolts, corroded, exposed to whatever conditions.
3. AGAIN - either you people don't understand what you read OR my English is too poor to express my thoughts - I have not given any advice -in Polish language, that sentence means: "ME MYSELF and I" never done this or that - in this case, it means "I didn't use heat to break Loctite grip".
4. Marine engineering: engines, pumps, turbines, you name it.
EOT from my side.
Last edited by JED POLAND; 07-09-2022 at 11:16 AM.
#93
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1. Heated bolt means expanded bolt - rather obstacle than help, if you ask me. Heated case (by a wrong person) means cracked case.
2. IF the right thread locker has been use, no need for any heat, anywhere - unless we're talking old bolts, corroded, exposed to whatever conditions.
2. IF the right thread locker has been use, no need for any heat, anywhere - unless we're talking old bolts, corroded, exposed to whatever conditions.
https://university.fuelmotousa.com/a...-removal-tips/
#94
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FuelMoto USA says 5 minutes of heat from a heat gun for 5 minutes, and the bolt comes out.
https://university.fuelmotousa.com/a...-removal-tips/
https://university.fuelmotousa.com/a...-removal-tips/
#95
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#96
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The first one came out just fine.
But the 2nd one didnt, obviously.
I'm kicking my self so hard right now for not knowing I needed to heat the bolt for MUCH longer.
I'm getting that major itch to ride and cabin fever because of it.
Girl needs her bike back, ASAP.
#97
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Besides having experience working on anything and everything from food processing or packaging equipment to automobiles to boilers and turbines to industrial control systems (all professionally) i've done this exact job multiple times.
https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/p...kerred271.html
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Johnny jonjon (07-09-2022)
#98
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I have over 40 years as a certified aircraft mechanic and I rebuild my own bikes etc etc and so on.
I never claim to know everything and when I hear someone say they do know “everything “ the bullshit alarm goes off like an air raid siren. I learned from this post about a nut and a MIG welder (genius)
I never claim to know everything and when I hear someone say they do know “everything “ the bullshit alarm goes off like an air raid siren. I learned from this post about a nut and a MIG welder (genius)
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Uncle Larry (07-09-2022)
#99
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I had a question Maybe it'll come back to me in a few WHEW !!!
WP
Last edited by WP50; 07-09-2022 at 01:40 PM.
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#100
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I have over 40 years as a certified aircraft mechanic and I rebuild my own bikes etc etc and so on.
I never claim to know everything and when I hear someone say they do know “everything “ the bullshit alarm goes off like an air raid siren. I learned from this post about a nut and a MIG welder (genius)
I never claim to know everything and when I hear someone say they do know “everything “ the bullshit alarm goes off like an air raid siren. I learned from this post about a nut and a MIG welder (genius)
Certified
Master
Garage
Hammer
I'm between Garage and Hammer depending on if patience runs out.
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