Well, before pulling everything apart I took a look at a photo I took right before buttoning everything up and see the tensioner is pretty much fully retracted, so I don't think I am going to bother.
It is my understanding that some automotive applications use a shrink fit band around the automatic transmission clutch basket. I don't know first hand. Does anyone here have info ?
I hear you on the OCD. I had my outer primary cover stripped and re-powder coated when I did mine because it had a small nick.
It’s a blessing and a curse!
So I just read in the SM that the c-clip was directional - flat side towards bearing. I totally missed that too, when doing the job. Luckily when I re-read the section they were referring to the bearing retaining clip, not the one on the hub. But I remembered removing the clip and setting it down in the direction it was installed, so that’s how it went back. Since it wasn’t specified it doesn’t matter, but luckily it went back the way it came out.
If I get one more backorder notice, I going to light the bike on fire.
My primary gasket is now backordered.
Originally Posted by VDeuce
Unless damaged, you can reuse them. I have done so many times without a leak.
When I was changing Rekluse clutch packs weekly due to a string of out of tolerance stacks I went 4 times on the same gasket. I just changed it when I did the ramp/basket last week.
I figured, I had done it once already, just figured I would put a new James gasket in, and be done
Man, getting parts is tough! I got one of my two new front rotors, one of my two new wheel brg sets, one side of brake pads, one of two tires, etc...I have been shopping everywhere.
Thanks boys. I looked around locally and of course no one had press blocks for sale. How does Harbor Freight not even have a small set? If anyone has suggestions on a kit, let me know please! So I dug deep into my “bought for one use” tool draw and found a 36mm socket that coincidentally just cleared the shaft of the hub, which was 1.3” diameter, and also made solid contact with the inner bearing race. Lubed it up with primary fluid and it pressed right in. Nice.
That compensator bolt was the bitch, because my breaker bar was only like 16” long. Even heating it to over 500 it seemed like it wouldn’t budge. Of course after practically crapping out my kidneys I muscled it off with that pee-wee breaker. I thought to myself “why didn’t you just use the 1/2” torque wrench sitting on the stand, you stupid idiot..”
Everything else was cake. Once I figured out the press issue and recovered consciousness from the breaker bar incident, everything else went together quick and easy. Reused the Carbonite clutch I got from FuelMoto, Buttoned it up, cleaned up and came into the AC and drank about 3 gallons of ice water. Garages in f***ing Florida summers with only a fan isn’t fun.
Didn’t get to test ride, but unless I screwed something up, there really shouldn’t be any difference. Just that this won’t eventually fly apart…
As usual, I suck at photos, but here’s all I got.
You should never use a torque wrench as a breaker bar. You can damage them (also don't store them with torque dialed in). Get a good, longer breaker bar and a length of black pipe and you won't have an issue.
You should never use a torque wrench as a breaker bar. You can damage them (also don't store them with torque dialed in). Get a good, longer breaker bar and a length of black pipe and you won't have an issue.
I didn't. But realistically, what's the difference if I set it to 250ftbls and wrenched it? It's designed to handle that kind of torque, right? And yes, I already have the pipe extension for next time!