Best clutch basket?
#11
06-26-2021, 09:37 AM
It may seem overwhelming/daunting, but removing the primary drive is really not an overly complicated procedure.
I know you said you have the tools, but there are a few uncommon ones that I'll mention, just in case.
For the clutch basket assembly - you'll need to remove the three bolts that hold on the pressure plate (and AIM/Rekluse/Etc) weighted plate. Go about 2 turns and then move to the next bolt, repeating until it's off. The key is to keep the tension even on each of the three bolts until they're off.
From there, you can remove the entire pressure plate, and clutch discs at this time to set aside. It's easy to stack them on some old cardboard to keep them in the same order for reassembly.
THE CLUTCH BASKET RETAINING NUT IS A LEFT-HANDED THREAD!!!
The 1 3/16" nut turns right (clockwise) to loosen/remove it. I usually use an impact on this because once you remove the pressure plate and clutch discs, there is nothing to keep the internal clutch hub from spinning (unless if the bike is in gear and the rear tire is grounded, maybe). It's catch 22 - because with a weighted pressure plate retainer (like the AIM), it covers the hole in the pressure plate where you would typically access the clutch basket retaining nut through.
Once the compensator bolt and clutch retaining nut are off, you can slide both off at the same time. Don't worry about the chain tensioner, you can reset it to the lowest setting later and zip tie it in place for reassembly. It's recommended to keep the primary drive chain oriented in the same direction for reassembly. You won't be able to remove the chain before removing the comp & basket, so pull them out as one. Same goes for reassembly - put the chain on the comp and basket, and install them as one. If you put either the comp or basket in place first, you won't be able to get the side to side flex needed in the chain to put it over the sprockets - they have to go in as one.
As for the clutch hub/basket pressing - you don't need press plugs as you can use an appropriately sized socket to press out the clutch hub. If you have a couple scrap pieces of 2x4 wood, you can use that under the assembly for the press. Once you're doing it, it'll make better sense and you can see where you need to support things to allow clearance for the hub to be removed.
There is a retaining ring on the backside of the clutch hub shaft that has to be removed, and then you can press the hub right out.
Pressing it into the Evo Industries hub is easy - press it in from the front and it will bottom out. When it bottoms out, it should be exactly deep enough to reinstall the retaining snap-ring on the back side of the clutch hub shaft. I'd suggest a light coating of grease or assembly lube, even a film of oil would suffice on the clutch hub shaft/basket bearing to make things slide together nicely.
It's also recommended that you use a new compensator bolt - you're local dealer should have them in stock.
Before putting anything back together, Baker's instructions suggested a 9/16-12 bottoming tap be run into the crankshaft a few threads at a time to clean out the old threadlocker junk. I did a few turns, removed it, and blew out the hole with compressed air. Repeat until it's cleaned out, and you're all set. If you choose to do this step, go gently and don't force things.
Installation is obviously the reverse of the above, but it's not hard either. The service manual has the specific torque sequence for the compensator bolt - basically torque to 100 ft/lbs, back off 1/2 turn, and retorque to 175 ft/lbs. I install all the big stuff, then the last piece I put in is the chain tensioner, and then cut off the zip ties from it and measure initial chain tension, and then put the cover on.
I like Bel-Ray Primary Chaincase fluid, and I really love the clutch engagement - it's smooth, not choppy or jerky. Personal preference though, as we all have our go-to oils.
As always, if you hit any snags just hit up the forum. I just did this whole thing a couple weeks ago, so it's still fresh for me!
I know you said you have the tools, but there are a few uncommon ones that I'll mention, just in case.
- T-70 Torx bit (for the compensator bolt)
- 1 3/16" socket (for the clutch assemble retaining nut)
- Benzomatic gas torch (like the kind plumber's use to sweat pipes, they're cheap at Lowes/Home Depot)
- 9/16-12 Bottoming Tap (available at McMaster-Carr)
- Torque Wrench capable of 175 ft/lbs
- Red Loctite
- Snap-ring Pliers (good ones)
For the clutch basket assembly - you'll need to remove the three bolts that hold on the pressure plate (and AIM/Rekluse/Etc) weighted plate. Go about 2 turns and then move to the next bolt, repeating until it's off. The key is to keep the tension even on each of the three bolts until they're off.
From there, you can remove the entire pressure plate, and clutch discs at this time to set aside. It's easy to stack them on some old cardboard to keep them in the same order for reassembly.
THE CLUTCH BASKET RETAINING NUT IS A LEFT-HANDED THREAD!!!
The 1 3/16" nut turns right (clockwise) to loosen/remove it. I usually use an impact on this because once you remove the pressure plate and clutch discs, there is nothing to keep the internal clutch hub from spinning (unless if the bike is in gear and the rear tire is grounded, maybe). It's catch 22 - because with a weighted pressure plate retainer (like the AIM), it covers the hole in the pressure plate where you would typically access the clutch basket retaining nut through.
Once the compensator bolt and clutch retaining nut are off, you can slide both off at the same time. Don't worry about the chain tensioner, you can reset it to the lowest setting later and zip tie it in place for reassembly. It's recommended to keep the primary drive chain oriented in the same direction for reassembly. You won't be able to remove the chain before removing the comp & basket, so pull them out as one. Same goes for reassembly - put the chain on the comp and basket, and install them as one. If you put either the comp or basket in place first, you won't be able to get the side to side flex needed in the chain to put it over the sprockets - they have to go in as one.
As for the clutch hub/basket pressing - you don't need press plugs as you can use an appropriately sized socket to press out the clutch hub. If you have a couple scrap pieces of 2x4 wood, you can use that under the assembly for the press. Once you're doing it, it'll make better sense and you can see where you need to support things to allow clearance for the hub to be removed.
There is a retaining ring on the backside of the clutch hub shaft that has to be removed, and then you can press the hub right out.
Pressing it into the Evo Industries hub is easy - press it in from the front and it will bottom out. When it bottoms out, it should be exactly deep enough to reinstall the retaining snap-ring on the back side of the clutch hub shaft. I'd suggest a light coating of grease or assembly lube, even a film of oil would suffice on the clutch hub shaft/basket bearing to make things slide together nicely.
It's also recommended that you use a new compensator bolt - you're local dealer should have them in stock.
Before putting anything back together, Baker's instructions suggested a 9/16-12 bottoming tap be run into the crankshaft a few threads at a time to clean out the old threadlocker junk. I did a few turns, removed it, and blew out the hole with compressed air. Repeat until it's cleaned out, and you're all set. If you choose to do this step, go gently and don't force things.
Installation is obviously the reverse of the above, but it's not hard either. The service manual has the specific torque sequence for the compensator bolt - basically torque to 100 ft/lbs, back off 1/2 turn, and retorque to 175 ft/lbs. I install all the big stuff, then the last piece I put in is the chain tensioner, and then cut off the zip ties from it and measure initial chain tension, and then put the cover on.
I like Bel-Ray Primary Chaincase fluid, and I really love the clutch engagement - it's smooth, not choppy or jerky. Personal preference though, as we all have our go-to oils.
As always, if you hit any snags just hit up the forum. I just did this whole thing a couple weeks ago, so it's still fresh for me!
Last edited by Redbeard719; 06-26-2021 at 09:43 AM. Reason: formatting
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#12
06-26-2021, 10:03 AM
It may seem overwhelming/daunting, but removing the primary drive is really not an overly complicated procedure.
I know you said you have the tools, but there are a few uncommon ones that I'll mention, just in case.
For the clutch basket assembly - you'll need to remove the three bolts that hold on the pressure plate (and AIM/Rekluse/Etc) weighted plate. Go about 2 turns and then move to the next bolt, repeating until it's off. The key is to keep the tension even on each of the three bolts until they're off.
From there, you can remove the entire pressure plate, and clutch discs at this time to set aside. It's easy to stack them on some old cardboard to keep them in the same order for reassembly.
THE CLUTCH BASKET RETAINING NUT IS A LEFT-HANDED THREAD!!!
The 1 3/16" nut turns right (clockwise) to loosen/remove it. I usually use an impact on this because once you remove the pressure plate and clutch discs, there is nothing to keep the internal clutch hub from spinning (unless if the bike is in gear and the rear tire is grounded, maybe). It's catch 22 - because with a weighted pressure plate retainer (like the AIM), it covers the hole in the pressure plate where you would typically access the clutch basket retaining nut through.
Once the compensator bolt and clutch retaining nut are off, you can slide both off at the same time. Don't worry about the chain tensioner, you can reset it to the lowest setting later and zip tie it in place for reassembly. It's recommended to keep the primary drive chain oriented in the same direction for reassembly. You won't be able to remove the chain before removing the comp & basket, so pull them out as one. Same goes for reassembly - put the chain on the comp and basket, and install them as one. If you put either the comp or basket in place first, you won't be able to get the side to side flex needed in the chain to put it over the sprockets - they have to go in as one.
As for the clutch hub/basket pressing - you don't need press plugs as you can use an appropriately sized socket to press out the clutch hub. If you have a couple scrap pieces of 2x4 wood, you can use that under the assembly for the press. Once you're doing it, it'll make better sense and you can see where you need to support things to allow clearance for the hub to be removed.
There is a retaining ring on the backside of the clutch hub shaft that has to be removed, and then you can press the hub right out.
Pressing it into the Evo Industries hub is easy - press it in from the front and it will bottom out. When it bottoms out, it should be exactly deep enough to reinstall the retaining snap-ring on the back side of the clutch hub shaft. I'd suggest a light coating of grease or assembly lube, even a film of oil would suffice on the clutch hub shaft/basket bearing to make things slide together nicely.
It's also recommended that you use a new compensator bolt - you're local dealer should have them in stock.
Before putting anything back together, Baker's instructions suggested a 9/16-12 bottoming tap be run into the crankshaft a few threads at a time to clean out the old threadlocker junk. I did a few turns, removed it, and blew out the hole with compressed air. Repeat until it's cleaned out, and you're all set. If you choose to do this step, go gently and don't force things.
Installation is obviously the reverse of the above, but it's not hard either. The service manual has the specific torque sequence for the compensator bolt - basically torque to 100 ft/lbs, back off 1/2 turn, and retorque to 175 ft/lbs. I install all the big stuff, then the last piece I put in is the chain tensioner, and then cut off the zip ties from it and measure initial chain tension, and then put the cover on.
I like Bel-Ray Primary Chaincase fluid, and I really love the clutch engagement - it's smooth, not choppy or jerky. Personal preference though, as we all have our go-to oils.
As always, if you hit any snags just hit up the forum. I just did this whole thing a couple weeks ago, so it's still fresh for me!
I know you said you have the tools, but there are a few uncommon ones that I'll mention, just in case.
- T-70 Torx bit (for the compensator bolt)
- 1 3/16" socket (for the clutch assemble retaining nut)
- Benzomatic gas torch (like the kind plumber's use to sweat pipes, they're cheap at Lowes/Home Depot)
- 9/16-12 Bottoming Tap (available at McMaster-Carr)
- Torque Wrench capable of 175 ft/lbs
- Red Loctite
- Snap-ring Pliers (good ones)
For the clutch basket assembly - you'll need to remove the three bolts that hold on the pressure plate (and AIM/Rekluse/Etc) weighted plate. Go about 2 turns and then move to the next bolt, repeating until it's off. The key is to keep the tension even on each of the three bolts until they're off.
From there, you can remove the entire pressure plate, and clutch discs at this time to set aside. It's easy to stack them on some old cardboard to keep them in the same order for reassembly.
THE CLUTCH BASKET RETAINING NUT IS A LEFT-HANDED THREAD!!!
The 1 3/16" nut turns right (clockwise) to loosen/remove it. I usually use an impact on this because once you remove the pressure plate and clutch discs, there is nothing to keep the internal clutch hub from spinning (unless if the bike is in gear and the rear tire is grounded, maybe). It's catch 22 - because with a weighted pressure plate retainer (like the AIM), it covers the hole in the pressure plate where you would typically access the clutch basket retaining nut through.
Once the compensator bolt and clutch retaining nut are off, you can slide both off at the same time. Don't worry about the chain tensioner, you can reset it to the lowest setting later and zip tie it in place for reassembly. It's recommended to keep the primary drive chain oriented in the same direction for reassembly. You won't be able to remove the chain before removing the comp & basket, so pull them out as one. Same goes for reassembly - put the chain on the comp and basket, and install them as one. If you put either the comp or basket in place first, you won't be able to get the side to side flex needed in the chain to put it over the sprockets - they have to go in as one.
As for the clutch hub/basket pressing - you don't need press plugs as you can use an appropriately sized socket to press out the clutch hub. If you have a couple scrap pieces of 2x4 wood, you can use that under the assembly for the press. Once you're doing it, it'll make better sense and you can see where you need to support things to allow clearance for the hub to be removed.
There is a retaining ring on the backside of the clutch hub shaft that has to be removed, and then you can press the hub right out.
Pressing it into the Evo Industries hub is easy - press it in from the front and it will bottom out. When it bottoms out, it should be exactly deep enough to reinstall the retaining snap-ring on the back side of the clutch hub shaft. I'd suggest a light coating of grease or assembly lube, even a film of oil would suffice on the clutch hub shaft/basket bearing to make things slide together nicely.
It's also recommended that you use a new compensator bolt - you're local dealer should have them in stock.
Before putting anything back together, Baker's instructions suggested a 9/16-12 bottoming tap be run into the crankshaft a few threads at a time to clean out the old threadlocker junk. I did a few turns, removed it, and blew out the hole with compressed air. Repeat until it's cleaned out, and you're all set. If you choose to do this step, go gently and don't force things.
Installation is obviously the reverse of the above, but it's not hard either. The service manual has the specific torque sequence for the compensator bolt - basically torque to 100 ft/lbs, back off 1/2 turn, and retorque to 175 ft/lbs. I install all the big stuff, then the last piece I put in is the chain tensioner, and then cut off the zip ties from it and measure initial chain tension, and then put the cover on.
I like Bel-Ray Primary Chaincase fluid, and I really love the clutch engagement - it's smooth, not choppy or jerky. Personal preference though, as we all have our go-to oils.
As always, if you hit any snags just hit up the forum. I just did this whole thing a couple weeks ago, so it's still fresh for me!
I initially had a hell of a time getting a Rekluse clutch pack that allowed me to have neutral, so I’ve dis/reassembled and replaced the clutch pack so many times I can do it in my sleep lol.
I’ve got a little crack pipe benzo torch I use for heat shrink connectors/tubing, lighting cigars, and my crack pipe of course, so I’ve got that covered.
Everything else looks pretty straightforward, so I don’t have any of my usual terror when facing unknown motor work. I’d walk straight into a gunfight if necessary but opening the motor freaks me the F out, lol. Until I’ve done it once… Knowing what to do instills a lot of confidence lol.
Again, thanks for the write up, I appreciate you taking the time on a Saturday!
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Redbeard719 (06-27-2021)
#13
06-26-2021, 10:13 AM
Club Member
Good stuff Redbeard! I am getting that basket on order, already have the CR ramp 
We just got back from a 2Kish ride, and man, when we got trapped in a couple of traffic jams in the heat, that comp was just getting pounded and noisy at idle. It really gets noticeable with the super lopey cams.
We just got back from a 2Kish ride, and man, when we got trapped in a couple of traffic jams in the heat, that comp was just getting pounded and noisy at idle. It really gets noticeable with the super lopey cams.
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Redbeard719 (06-27-2021)
#14
06-26-2021, 11:01 AM
My CR ramp arrives today and I ordered the Evolution basket from Jamie last night. If he has inventory I’ll see it Wed or Thurs. If my press arrives by then it’ll be a next weekend job. Going to get a new pri gasket since mine has been reused about 4 times already. Don’t want to see the inside of that case for a long time after that!
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NorthWestern (06-26-2021)
#15
06-26-2021, 09:53 PM
I definitely owe you a beer. Excellent write up. I ordered the T70 and socket from Amazon when I knew I was going to do the job myself. I may even have the tap, as I have a full set, but I’ll check to make sure. I may order a chaser instead so I can clean the threads w/o risking removing any metal. Great idea though, and also didn’t know the bolt should be replaced, so I’ll pick up a new one before starting.
I initially had a hell of a time getting a Rekluse clutch pack that allowed me to have neutral, so I’ve dis/reassembled and replaced the clutch pack so many times I can do it in my sleep lol.
I’ve got a little crack pipe benzo torch I use for heat shrink connectors/tubing, lighting cigars, and my crack pipe of course, so I’ve got that covered.
Everything else looks pretty straightforward, so I don’t have any of my usual terror when facing unknown motor work. I’d walk straight into a gunfight if necessary but opening the motor freaks me the F out, lol. Until I’ve done it once… Knowing what to do instills a lot of confidence lol.
Again, thanks for the write up, I appreciate you taking the time on a Saturday!
I initially had a hell of a time getting a Rekluse clutch pack that allowed me to have neutral, so I’ve dis/reassembled and replaced the clutch pack so many times I can do it in my sleep lol.
I’ve got a little crack pipe benzo torch I use for heat shrink connectors/tubing, lighting cigars, and my crack pipe of course, so I’ve got that covered.
Everything else looks pretty straightforward, so I don’t have any of my usual terror when facing unknown motor work. I’d walk straight into a gunfight if necessary but opening the motor freaks me the F out, lol. Until I’ve done it once… Knowing what to do instills a lot of confidence lol.
Again, thanks for the write up, I appreciate you taking the time on a Saturday!
Full disclosure, I'm running an AIM VPC and the Muller slave cylinder. When I switched to the G3 Carbonite clutch pack, I also swapped in the heavy springs. My clutch pull is still very light considering the amount of lockup it's providing. It feels perfect and I wouldn't have any qualms about stop and go traffic.
Good stuff Redbeard! I am getting that basket on order, already have the CR ramp
We just got back from a 2Kish ride, and man, when we got trapped in a couple of traffic jams in the heat, that comp was just getting pounded and noisy at idle. It really gets noticeable with the super lopey cams.
We just got back from a 2Kish ride, and man, when we got trapped in a couple of traffic jams in the heat, that comp was just getting pounded and noisy at idle. It really gets noticeable with the super lopey cams.
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Mchad (06-27-2021)
#16
06-27-2021, 05:24 AM
Road Warrior
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Redbeard719 (06-27-2021)
#17
06-27-2021, 01:11 PM
Club Member
#18
06-27-2021, 02:19 PM
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Redbeard719 (06-27-2021)
#19
06-28-2021, 12:51 PM
Platinum Sponsor
It may seem overwhelming/daunting, but removing the primary drive is really not an overly complicated procedure.
I know you said you have the tools, but there are a few uncommon ones that I'll mention, just in case.
For the clutch basket assembly - you'll need to remove the three bolts that hold on the pressure plate (and AIM/Rekluse/Etc) weighted plate. Go about 2 turns and then move to the next bolt, repeating until it's off. The key is to keep the tension even on each of the three bolts until they're off.
From there, you can remove the entire pressure plate, and clutch discs at this time to set aside. It's easy to stack them on some old cardboard to keep them in the same order for reassembly.
THE CLUTCH BASKET RETAINING NUT IS A LEFT-HANDED THREAD!!!
The 1 3/16" nut turns right (clockwise) to loosen/remove it. I usually use an impact on this because once you remove the pressure plate and clutch discs, there is nothing to keep the internal clutch hub from spinning (unless if the bike is in gear and the rear tire is grounded, maybe). It's catch 22 - because with a weighted pressure plate retainer (like the AIM), it covers the hole in the pressure plate where you would typically access the clutch basket retaining nut through.
Once the compensator bolt and clutch retaining nut are off, you can slide both off at the same time. Don't worry about the chain tensioner, you can reset it to the lowest setting later and zip tie it in place for reassembly. It's recommended to keep the primary drive chain oriented in the same direction for reassembly. You won't be able to remove the chain before removing the comp & basket, so pull them out as one. Same goes for reassembly - put the chain on the comp and basket, and install them as one. If you put either the comp or basket in place first, you won't be able to get the side to side flex needed in the chain to put it over the sprockets - they have to go in as one.
As for the clutch hub/basket pressing - you don't need press plugs as you can use an appropriately sized socket to press out the clutch hub. If you have a couple scrap pieces of 2x4 wood, you can use that under the assembly for the press. Once you're doing it, it'll make better sense and you can see where you need to support things to allow clearance for the hub to be removed.
There is a retaining ring on the backside of the clutch hub shaft that has to be removed, and then you can press the hub right out.
Pressing it into the Evo Industries hub is easy - press it in from the front and it will bottom out. When it bottoms out, it should be exactly deep enough to reinstall the retaining snap-ring on the back side of the clutch hub shaft. I'd suggest a light coating of grease or assembly lube, even a film of oil would suffice on the clutch hub shaft/basket bearing to make things slide together nicely.
It's also recommended that you use a new compensator bolt - you're local dealer should have them in stock.
Before putting anything back together, Baker's instructions suggested a 9/16-12 bottoming tap be run into the crankshaft a few threads at a time to clean out the old threadlocker junk. I did a few turns, removed it, and blew out the hole with compressed air. Repeat until it's cleaned out, and you're all set. If you choose to do this step, go gently and don't force things.
Installation is obviously the reverse of the above, but it's not hard either. The service manual has the specific torque sequence for the compensator bolt - basically torque to 100 ft/lbs, back off 1/2 turn, and retorque to 175 ft/lbs. I install all the big stuff, then the last piece I put in is the chain tensioner, and then cut off the zip ties from it and measure initial chain tension, and then put the cover on.
I like Bel-Ray Primary Chaincase fluid, and I really love the clutch engagement - it's smooth, not choppy or jerky. Personal preference though, as we all have our go-to oils.
As always, if you hit any snags just hit up the forum. I just did this whole thing a couple weeks ago, so it's still fresh for me!
I know you said you have the tools, but there are a few uncommon ones that I'll mention, just in case.
- T-70 Torx bit (for the compensator bolt)
- 1 3/16" socket (for the clutch assemble retaining nut)
- Benzomatic gas torch (like the kind plumber's use to sweat pipes, they're cheap at Lowes/Home Depot)
- 9/16-12 Bottoming Tap (available at McMaster-Carr)
- Torque Wrench capable of 175 ft/lbs
- Red Loctite
- Snap-ring Pliers (good ones)
For the clutch basket assembly - you'll need to remove the three bolts that hold on the pressure plate (and AIM/Rekluse/Etc) weighted plate. Go about 2 turns and then move to the next bolt, repeating until it's off. The key is to keep the tension even on each of the three bolts until they're off.
From there, you can remove the entire pressure plate, and clutch discs at this time to set aside. It's easy to stack them on some old cardboard to keep them in the same order for reassembly.
THE CLUTCH BASKET RETAINING NUT IS A LEFT-HANDED THREAD!!!
The 1 3/16" nut turns right (clockwise) to loosen/remove it. I usually use an impact on this because once you remove the pressure plate and clutch discs, there is nothing to keep the internal clutch hub from spinning (unless if the bike is in gear and the rear tire is grounded, maybe). It's catch 22 - because with a weighted pressure plate retainer (like the AIM), it covers the hole in the pressure plate where you would typically access the clutch basket retaining nut through.
Once the compensator bolt and clutch retaining nut are off, you can slide both off at the same time. Don't worry about the chain tensioner, you can reset it to the lowest setting later and zip tie it in place for reassembly. It's recommended to keep the primary drive chain oriented in the same direction for reassembly. You won't be able to remove the chain before removing the comp & basket, so pull them out as one. Same goes for reassembly - put the chain on the comp and basket, and install them as one. If you put either the comp or basket in place first, you won't be able to get the side to side flex needed in the chain to put it over the sprockets - they have to go in as one.
As for the clutch hub/basket pressing - you don't need press plugs as you can use an appropriately sized socket to press out the clutch hub. If you have a couple scrap pieces of 2x4 wood, you can use that under the assembly for the press. Once you're doing it, it'll make better sense and you can see where you need to support things to allow clearance for the hub to be removed.
There is a retaining ring on the backside of the clutch hub shaft that has to be removed, and then you can press the hub right out.
Pressing it into the Evo Industries hub is easy - press it in from the front and it will bottom out. When it bottoms out, it should be exactly deep enough to reinstall the retaining snap-ring on the back side of the clutch hub shaft. I'd suggest a light coating of grease or assembly lube, even a film of oil would suffice on the clutch hub shaft/basket bearing to make things slide together nicely.
It's also recommended that you use a new compensator bolt - you're local dealer should have them in stock.
Before putting anything back together, Baker's instructions suggested a 9/16-12 bottoming tap be run into the crankshaft a few threads at a time to clean out the old threadlocker junk. I did a few turns, removed it, and blew out the hole with compressed air. Repeat until it's cleaned out, and you're all set. If you choose to do this step, go gently and don't force things.
Installation is obviously the reverse of the above, but it's not hard either. The service manual has the specific torque sequence for the compensator bolt - basically torque to 100 ft/lbs, back off 1/2 turn, and retorque to 175 ft/lbs. I install all the big stuff, then the last piece I put in is the chain tensioner, and then cut off the zip ties from it and measure initial chain tension, and then put the cover on.
I like Bel-Ray Primary Chaincase fluid, and I really love the clutch engagement - it's smooth, not choppy or jerky. Personal preference though, as we all have our go-to oils.
As always, if you hit any snags just hit up the forum. I just did this whole thing a couple weeks ago, so it's still fresh for me!
__________________
Jamie Long / Fuel Moto USA
The USA's Leader V-Twin EFI & Performance www.fuelmotousa.com
Contact 920-423-3309
Email jamie@fuelmotousa.com
Jamie Long / Fuel Moto USA
The USA's Leader V-Twin EFI & Performance www.fuelmotousa.com
Contact 920-423-3309
Email jamie@fuelmotousa.com
The following 2 users liked this post by fuelmoto:
Redbeard719 (06-28-2021),
SomeOld Biker (07-06-2021)
#20
06-28-2021, 01:16 PM