Originally Posted by Quik

Welll, noticed my oil fluctuating a little on my dipstick in my 128 so I pulled the CPS and dropped about 11 ounces out, I really hated to see this! No signs of sumping or anything just the oil level moving some. This 128 build was done in December and during break in with Kendal conventional oil that FM put in there was no change on the dipstick for 1k miles. After break in I put Redline full synthetic oil in and noticed with in a few hundred miles some movement on the stick. I was told after my bike sumped bad when it was stage 2 to not run synthetic in it again and I didn’t until after the 128 build which I figured was good at that point. We put the newest HD 8 lobe pump in when they did the 128 also. Long story short, I’m going back to conventional oil and see how that plays out. I change my oil at 3k so conventional should be fine. I’m running Bel ray conventional primary oil in the primary now at the recommendation of FM so I’m just gonna go with bel ray mineral in the engine and belray 85/140 tranny oil. Bike is still running great, was just a little disappointed to see 11 ounces in the crank. Hopefully the mineral oil takes care of it, we’ll see.

Originally Posted by OldMike

Was this going on before the Trask cover install?

Originally Posted by Quik

yes sir, oil starting changing on the dipstick after I dropped the conventional break in oil out.

Originally Posted by OldMike

I know different types of bikes but my 2019 Low Rider, I was chasing fluctuating oil level and wrote it off to the old style oil pump since my 2020 is fine.
Maybe a seal but if FM is calling it good just keep checking.

Originally Posted by 702

Ugh. I wonder if we'll ever know why some do this and most don't.

Originally Posted by GlidingJoe

Just a question or two... During break in I am sure you were extremely cautious of how you rode the bike and did the break in, so could that in itself be why the oil did not fluctuate? During the engine build, are you certain that the oil pump was set properly rotating the engine after pump installed but prior to torque and allowing it to align properly? Just asking, sometimes even the most experienced can miss a step. Pump not set right can cause it to cavitate

Originally Posted by Hairy Larry

In the part two video he said this bike sumped because of a piston oiler jet.

Originally Posted by smitty901

That is a cause of a fair number of them with the issue. Not always the oil pump . Sometimes both.

Originally Posted by Quik

the jets were checked and good on mine during the build but they still checked and re torqued