Best M8 114 Stage 2 Set up for Max HP AND Torque
#1
Best M8 114 Stage 2 Set up for Max HP AND Torque
I know there’s a Ton of info on this But , I’m waiting for my Warranty to expire, then go with best Cam, Intake & Slip-ons with stock headers that will be de-catted . I have a 2019 SG Spec with a Stock 114 . Hoping for Max Torque First And Max HP . I Run a lot on the Freeway, and rolling along Back country Roads , split between solo and 2 up And I Rarely go Over 4500 RPMs . Thanks for any feedback !
#2
#3
since you have plenty of time while you're waiting for your 2019 warranty to expire before making changes, why not pm or call one of the excellent established reputable forum product experts and have some discussions with those subject matter experts who do this stuff day in and day out for a living..they'll steer you right..that's what I'd be doing anyway
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#4
They say there is now such thing as a dumb question and i do understand u are looking for info, but there is so much info on stage 2 combos, its all most scary. Grab a pint when u have time and go thru the M8 forum. There will be more there, than u want to read.
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#6
#8
#9
go here: https://university.fuelmotousa.com/dyno-charts/
look at the section on milwaukee eight 114
or look at the dyno section of this forum
here is a dyno sheet from a soft tail 114 with a redshift (zippers) 468 cam, keep in mind touring bikes have the cat in the headpipe and soft tails have the cat in the slip ons so this bike has no catalytic converter.
next lets look at the graph lets start on the left side the top line is torque and the bottom line is horsepower.
if you follow the horsepower line you will see that it doesn't come into play until roughly 5300 RPM
going by your statement that you rarely go over 4500 rpm a torque cam is what you want.
the Torque line should go up and right with no dips the flatter the better (this depends on a lot of variables and is easier said than achieved) the torque line in this example is fairly common you can see that at 2500 rpms it hits 105 ft pounds of torque and keeps climbing to about 3600 rpm and stays above 120 ft pounds until almost 4300 rpm.
you could go with HD's Screamin eagle torque cam se8-447 (stage 2 torque cam) and keep your warranty or go with something like this zippers cam and void the warranty.
HD's cams are EPA compliant because of that generally lose some torque and or horsepower.
tuners: only HD's screamin eagle tuner will keep your warranty (because it is EPA compliant) using any other tuner will possibly void your warranty (my personal choice is Dynojet Power Vision when using an aftermarket tuner)
Slip-ons: depends on how loud you want to go screamin eagle slips-ons tend to be quiet, rineharts middle of the road S&S Mk45's louder and OMG loud would be TAB with Zombie Baffles. (this is a generalization of course) (choice of slip-on will affect your dyno outcome to some extent)
looking at Dutch66's dyno keep in mind the torque is listed in newton meters (Nm) not foot pounds.
look at the section on milwaukee eight 114
or look at the dyno section of this forum
here is a dyno sheet from a soft tail 114 with a redshift (zippers) 468 cam, keep in mind touring bikes have the cat in the headpipe and soft tails have the cat in the slip ons so this bike has no catalytic converter.
next lets look at the graph lets start on the left side the top line is torque and the bottom line is horsepower.
if you follow the horsepower line you will see that it doesn't come into play until roughly 5300 RPM
going by your statement that you rarely go over 4500 rpm a torque cam is what you want.
the Torque line should go up and right with no dips the flatter the better (this depends on a lot of variables and is easier said than achieved) the torque line in this example is fairly common you can see that at 2500 rpms it hits 105 ft pounds of torque and keeps climbing to about 3600 rpm and stays above 120 ft pounds until almost 4300 rpm.
you could go with HD's Screamin eagle torque cam se8-447 (stage 2 torque cam) and keep your warranty or go with something like this zippers cam and void the warranty.
HD's cams are EPA compliant because of that generally lose some torque and or horsepower.
tuners: only HD's screamin eagle tuner will keep your warranty (because it is EPA compliant) using any other tuner will possibly void your warranty (my personal choice is Dynojet Power Vision when using an aftermarket tuner)
Slip-ons: depends on how loud you want to go screamin eagle slips-ons tend to be quiet, rineharts middle of the road S&S Mk45's louder and OMG loud would be TAB with Zombie Baffles. (this is a generalization of course) (choice of slip-on will affect your dyno outcome to some extent)
looking at Dutch66's dyno keep in mind the torque is listed in newton meters (Nm) not foot pounds.
Last edited by Hardcase61; 01-30-2020 at 05:17 AM.
#10
go here: https://university.fuelmotousa.com/dyno-charts/
look at the section on milwaukee eight 114
or look at the dyno section of this forum
here is a dyno sheet from a soft tail 114 with a redshift (zippers) 468 cam, keep in mind touring bikes have the cat in the headpipe and soft tails have the cat in the slip ons so this bike has no catalytic converter.
next lets look at the graph lets start on the left side the top line is torque and the bottom line is horsepower.
if you follow the horsepower line you will see that it doesn't come into play until roughly 5300 RPM
going by your statement that you rarely go over 4500 rpm a torque cam is what you want.
the Torque line should go up and right with no dips the flatter the better (this depends on a lot of variables and is easier said than achieved) the torque line in this example is fairly common you can see that at 2500 rpms it hits 105 ft pounds of torque and keeps climbing to about 3600 rpm and stays above 120 ft pounds until almost 4300 rpm.
you could go with HD's Screamin eagle torque cam se8-447 (stage 2 torque cam) and keep your warranty or go with something like this zippers cam and void the warranty.
HD's cams are EPA compliant because of that generally lose some torque and or horsepower.
tuners: only HD's screamin eagle tuner will keep your warranty (because it is EPA compliant) using any other tuner will possibly void your warranty (my personal choice is Dynojet Power Vision when using an aftermarket tuner)
Slip-ons: depends on how loud you want to go screamin eagle slips-ons tend to be quiet, rineharts middle of the road S&S Mk45's louder and OMG loud would be TAB with Zombie Baffles. (this is a generalization of course) (choice of slip-on will affect your dyno outcome to some extent)
looking at Dutch66's dyno keep in mind the torque is listed in newton meters (Nm) not foot pounds.
look at the section on milwaukee eight 114
or look at the dyno section of this forum
here is a dyno sheet from a soft tail 114 with a redshift (zippers) 468 cam, keep in mind touring bikes have the cat in the headpipe and soft tails have the cat in the slip ons so this bike has no catalytic converter.
next lets look at the graph lets start on the left side the top line is torque and the bottom line is horsepower.
if you follow the horsepower line you will see that it doesn't come into play until roughly 5300 RPM
going by your statement that you rarely go over 4500 rpm a torque cam is what you want.
the Torque line should go up and right with no dips the flatter the better (this depends on a lot of variables and is easier said than achieved) the torque line in this example is fairly common you can see that at 2500 rpms it hits 105 ft pounds of torque and keeps climbing to about 3600 rpm and stays above 120 ft pounds until almost 4300 rpm.
you could go with HD's Screamin eagle torque cam se8-447 (stage 2 torque cam) and keep your warranty or go with something like this zippers cam and void the warranty.
HD's cams are EPA compliant because of that generally lose some torque and or horsepower.
tuners: only HD's screamin eagle tuner will keep your warranty (because it is EPA compliant) using any other tuner will possibly void your warranty (my personal choice is Dynojet Power Vision when using an aftermarket tuner)
Slip-ons: depends on how loud you want to go screamin eagle slips-ons tend to be quiet, rineharts middle of the road S&S Mk45's louder and OMG loud would be TAB with Zombie Baffles. (this is a generalization of course) (choice of slip-on will affect your dyno outcome to some extent)
looking at Dutch66's dyno keep in mind the torque is listed in newton meters (Nm) not foot pounds.