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M8 clutch slip

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  #11  
Old 04-16-2019 | 10:32 AM
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South107
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Originally Posted by SMR65
Have u been out on your bike since u got back from your trip? I was wondering if it was still slipping and giving u that pulsating feeling, once everything had cooled down. If it is, im not 100 percent sure of this,but u may have warped some discs from the excessive heat, from riding in the friction zone for so long that day.
On my way back home (505miles) the clutch did not slip but I never got stuck in traffic. My concern is the day it happened was only 65 deg out with a cool breeze. What’s gonna happen when it’s 105deg and I’m stuck in traffic again. As of now, the clutch seems fine and no issues. It was suggested to have the fluid checked for possible air in the system and go from there. If that’s not it, I’ll change over to a non- synthetic oil. If that doesn’t take care of it I guess aftermarket clutch plates and springs which I shouldnt have to do in my opinion.
The bike has been great with no issues. I need/use the friction zone to control the bike in slow speeds in and out of tight spaces such as lane spilitting. Some people get mad and close you off where others give you the space so it’s still a constant stop and go.
Thanks for the suggestion.
 
  #12  
Old 04-16-2019 | 11:07 AM
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Well here’s my experience: I live near Los Angeles and ride my 2018 RGU FLTRU in heavy traffic every day. Bike is a daily driver that is my main transportation. Every day I ride, I split lanes. Sometimes for mile upon mile of heavy clutch use, hot temps, cool temps, rain or dry. About 75% of the time my 170 lb pax is with me combined with my 200 lbs. I also use my clutch in slow speed maneuvering. I do a LOT of slow speed maneuvering,

Bike is bone stock. I ride hard but am careful to not abuse the machinery. I slip clutch as little as possible, but riding in SoCal is just gonna be tough on a clutch. I accept that I will probably change clutch plates with every tire change, around every 20k miles.

Still, at 17k miles my original clutch never fails to lock and hold perfectly. Not a hint of slip. The bike, loaded up as described, will run thru 2d and 3D gears WOT all the way to 5500 without a bit of slip.

FWIW I run Formula+ in tranny and primary. I have no idea what my clutch plates look like. I figure when/if the clutch acts up I will replace the plates. It’s like brake pads. Wear and tear. And no two riders will get the same mileage.
 
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  #13  
Old 04-16-2019 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by KrustyKush
Well here’s my experience: I live near Los Angeles and ride my 2018 RGU FLTRU in heavy traffic every day. Bike is a daily driver that is my main transportation. Every day I ride, I split lanes. Sometimes for mile upon mile of heavy clutch use, hot temps, cool temps, rain or dry. About 75% of the time my 170 lb pax is with me combined with my 200 lbs. I also use my clutch in slow speed maneuvering. I do a LOT of slow speed maneuvering,

Bike is bone stock. I ride hard but am careful to not abuse the machinery. I slip clutch as little as possible, but riding in SoCal is just gonna be tough on a clutch. I accept that I will probably change clutch plates with every tire change, around every 20k miles.

Still, at 17k miles my original clutch never fails to lock and hold perfectly. Not a hint of slip. The bike, loaded up as described, will run thru 2d and 3D gears WOT all the way to 5500 without a bit of slip.

FWIW I run Formula+ in tranny and primary. I have no idea what my clutch plates look like. I figure when/if the clutch acts up I will replace the plates. It’s like brake pads. Wear and tear. And no two riders will get the same mileage.
Good info. Thanks for sharing that, really appreciate you time.
 
  #14  
Old 04-16-2019 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve N,
My Indy is an Amsoil guy, and uses it in the engine and transmission. However, he only uses Formula + in the primary. Although some may disagree, but I've read elsewhere that synthetic in the primary should be avoided as it's 'too slippery'.

Also,,, although lots of us have spent considerable time in the friction zone without issue, Jerry the Motor Man (Ride Like a Pro) recommends that you give it a break (either stopping or getting up in the gears for a bit) to allow the clutch and brakes to cool down.
It was interesting to find out that The Motor Man himself said he uses mobile 1 in the trans and primary in his bikes.

After harley takes a look at the bike I maybe trying a different oil. Defiantly gonna keep the same type in the primary and trans Incase of possible transfer.
Thanks for the suggestion.
 
  #15  
Old 04-16-2019 | 12:31 PM
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I like Formula+ in the primary and transmission. I run non-synthetic Kendall GT-1 high-performance oil in the engine. Clutch friction materials are a funny business; they like certain oils and don't work well with others. When running OEM HD frictions Formula+ will never let you down.
 
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