M8 burned up clutch
#12
Clutch
I don't think so...That's why some people can use automatic transmission fluid in the primary and it works for them. I had the dreaded transfer that mixed Formula+ and heavy gear oil with no bad effects before putting fresh fluid in each.
The following users liked this post:
Gead (04-11-2019)
#14
Looking again, all I can honestly see is a clutch that is red tinted due to the fluid being used.
The steels and friction disks don't look overly worn and there are no scaring or multicolor overheated areas pictured that I can tell.
Did you detect any slipping while riding it? Regardless, I don't see anything that could be called "abuse". Some people throw that out there because they don't know either...
The steels and friction disks don't look overly worn and there are no scaring or multicolor overheated areas pictured that I can tell.
Did you detect any slipping while riding it? Regardless, I don't see anything that could be called "abuse". Some people throw that out there because they don't know either...
#15
Last edited by lp; 04-11-2019 at 09:48 AM.
#16
The stock clutch is a slip assist type and they use too light of a spring to make the clutch handle pull the way they wanted it. The same clutch was used in the Twin Cam Models yet they used a heavier spring set in them and 10 disc. The M8 produces more Torque and more Hp than the Twin Cam so how does going to lighter springs and only 9 disc make it hold better? The 107 except Police models and Trikes got the 9 disc setup, the Police, Trikes and 114 models all got the 10 disc. HD only sells a 10 disc replacement clutch for all of them.
So that is why I went to the 10 disc and back to the earlier Twin Cam spring set. I added the AIM just for safety as I knew I would be increasing the Torque as well and it's been fine ever since.
So that is why I went to the 10 disc and back to the earlier Twin Cam spring set. I added the AIM just for safety as I knew I would be increasing the Torque as well and it's been fine ever since.
#17
Although you have given us some information, there is some missing. Is this clutch the model with 9 friction disc? What were you using for transmission lube? Were there any performance upgrades done to the bike prior to what you are doing now? When you say Barnett clutch, are you talking about the replacement friction and steels or are you talking about the Scorpion?
So basically, as Steve has said, the 9 plate clutch isn't going to hold as well as the 10 plate. There three things that will make a clutch stronger. More plates, stronger springs, and a centrifugal device such as the AIM SDR. The Barnett replacement kit comes with 10 friction plates and springs that are 1335 N. The AIM SDR is available with springs that are 1600 N. So a combination of these will give you a much stronger clutch, but the force to actuate it will be substantially greater, so you might want to consider the AIM actuator.
Another way to go would be the Rekluse Torqdrive clutch. It has 6 additional friction and steel disc, so you would get a stronger clutch without heavier springs and SDR. It would probably also eliminate the need for the AIM actuator.
As to what caused your clutch to fail or at least show wear, it could have been the transmission lube getting in your primary. The simplest way to stop that is the fat pushrod. He is claiming 100% success and nobody has disputed that so I would say he is correct.
So basically, no matter what, going to the 124" kit you are going to have to beef up the clutch. If you're going to chain drive in the rear I suspect that you are anticipating the bike seeing some hard service, so you will need a stronger clutch. You might also want to consider a Baker Grudge box. Once you strengthen one area, the component you don't strengthen is more likely to fail.
So basically, as Steve has said, the 9 plate clutch isn't going to hold as well as the 10 plate. There three things that will make a clutch stronger. More plates, stronger springs, and a centrifugal device such as the AIM SDR. The Barnett replacement kit comes with 10 friction plates and springs that are 1335 N. The AIM SDR is available with springs that are 1600 N. So a combination of these will give you a much stronger clutch, but the force to actuate it will be substantially greater, so you might want to consider the AIM actuator.
Another way to go would be the Rekluse Torqdrive clutch. It has 6 additional friction and steel disc, so you would get a stronger clutch without heavier springs and SDR. It would probably also eliminate the need for the AIM actuator.
As to what caused your clutch to fail or at least show wear, it could have been the transmission lube getting in your primary. The simplest way to stop that is the fat pushrod. He is claiming 100% success and nobody has disputed that so I would say he is correct.
So basically, no matter what, going to the 124" kit you are going to have to beef up the clutch. If you're going to chain drive in the rear I suspect that you are anticipating the bike seeing some hard service, so you will need a stronger clutch. You might also want to consider a Baker Grudge box. Once you strengthen one area, the component you don't strengthen is more likely to fail.
#18
Honestly it could be mechanical failure OR it can be from abuse OR it could be from something as simple as "riding the clutch". The last one is something that a lot of folks do and do not realize they are doing it. Not trying to throw any stones, but its really hard to prove what caused the failure. Even simple "engine braking" (letting the clutch assist in slowing the bike down when coming to a stop) can cause the issue (I actually do this a lot BTW)
#19
Lots of good info here. Thanks.
To set the record straight....I ride hard but I am also a very technically adept rider so I am not riding the clutch. Trust me. I rev match every downshift. I never use the clutch to brake. I do use the friction zone and drag the rear brake during slow speed maneuvers but I am not a cop doing it all day long. No burnouts. LOL
The more I think about it, I think that a possible cause could be the Redline Shockproof working it's way into the Redline Primary Oil. We have evidence of the tranny oil entering the primary so that could be it. I tried to call Redline but only got voicemail.
Also, I pulled the clutch rod out today (bike is in the shop but my mechanic is cool and lets me interface I suppose because I have a handle on things and it helps him). The end of the actuator side is definitely worn compared to the throwout bearing side. See pic. Not sure if possibly the actuator was not retracting all the way and keep pressure on the rod and maybe the plates. The bike never felt "slippy" though.
I ordered a fat rod last night and will throw that in just to be safe. Someone asked about the clutch I ordered. I just got the Barnett discs not a whole clutch assembly. I was planning on installing the AIM SDR pressure plate prior to all this occurring and also have a Light Force on B/O that I will stick in because I am going to have one heavy f'n clutch pull with all this!!!!
actuator side
throwout side
To set the record straight....I ride hard but I am also a very technically adept rider so I am not riding the clutch. Trust me. I rev match every downshift. I never use the clutch to brake. I do use the friction zone and drag the rear brake during slow speed maneuvers but I am not a cop doing it all day long. No burnouts. LOL
The more I think about it, I think that a possible cause could be the Redline Shockproof working it's way into the Redline Primary Oil. We have evidence of the tranny oil entering the primary so that could be it. I tried to call Redline but only got voicemail.
Also, I pulled the clutch rod out today (bike is in the shop but my mechanic is cool and lets me interface I suppose because I have a handle on things and it helps him). The end of the actuator side is definitely worn compared to the throwout bearing side. See pic. Not sure if possibly the actuator was not retracting all the way and keep pressure on the rod and maybe the plates. The bike never felt "slippy" though.
I ordered a fat rod last night and will throw that in just to be safe. Someone asked about the clutch I ordered. I just got the Barnett discs not a whole clutch assembly. I was planning on installing the AIM SDR pressure plate prior to all this occurring and also have a Light Force on B/O that I will stick in because I am going to have one heavy f'n clutch pull with all this!!!!
actuator side
throwout side
Last edited by Greg Di; 04-11-2019 at 08:47 PM.
#20
I think sometimes it can be an unconscious action as well. I hear it all the time when I am riding next to some riders. The go to shift and the bike's R's go up as they are in the middle of each shift and they do this each gear with a long slow let out of the clutch. That will wear out a clutch. Not saying this is how you ride OP.. We need more facts.