As you are looking at a touring version of the M8, my recommendation is Stage 2. It gives these bikes a better note, and plenty of low down grunt. These engines are already big displacement, and the 114 and beyond builds seem more prone to other issues according to Internet forums such as this, although I’m yet to meet anyone in the real world with any issues with these bikes.

My advice is go the stage 2 and then get a tuner that can allow a decent dyno operator to retune the bike optimally. If you are concerned about warranty, keep it stock until warranty lapses, then do it.

Sure, Webby will tell you Stage 1 is all you need, and that’s true, but with the M8 they don’t sound right until you add a Cam IMO.

My 17 FLHR has the Torque Cam, and has 30,000 faultless km on it, 25,000 with Stage 2. It rides much better than it did stock. 120ft lbs at 3300 rpm, 98 HP at 5400 rpm - perfect for me. I believe getting a bike optimally tuned is the key to avoiding engine issues. They run cooler in optimal AFR which I think makes all the difference.

seems to be the case hey Webby.......although I can add quite a few chapter members who are beyond my kms with zero issues too, even with bigger builds. Another factor is if the rider carries pillions. Two up, the Torque Cam is a definate advantage because it feels like you’re still riding solo. The dealers will always recommend bigger builds - it’s more bucks for them.

You’re talking about taking a 2018 that you’re getting a deal on and letting a dealer tech remove and replace the top end. What is that going to cost? If you want a 114” buy a 2019 Special model. If you still feel the need for more power get the torque cam. I would leave it there, the power will be in a usable rpm range. The stage III & IV kits from the factory are notorious for causing the motor to sump. The chances of sumping are much less in a stock motor. I think you’ll find the difference between the cost of the 2019 and the 2018 with the stage III installed is negligible. Plus you will have a bike with one less year depreciation on it.

If you want a bike that runs really hard and is reliable, do an aftermarket 117” or 120” big bore on your 2017, especially if your 2017 doesn’t transfer or sump. Nobody can guarantee you the new bike you’re considering won’t have those problems. You’ll be way ahead of the people doing the MOCO stage kits.

If the reason for going to the 2018 is the blacked out motor, there’s plenty of powder coaters that will be glad to coat your chrome. In Massachusetts you will have all winter to get it done.