Wth. Sumpin wrong
#21
. Your kidding rite? Lmao. If I could buy with NO warranty I would . Might use it for a radio. But I sure as he ll would never let a dealer do a performance upgrade or engine trans work......it would only end up back there. They patch...not fix. Sad but these are big boy toys that probably shouldn't even have a warranty like a race car. That would weed out guys that can't afford them. That was in no way aimed at you . Just a general statement.
#22
. Your kidding rite? Lmao. If I could buy with NO warranty I would . Might use it for a radio. But I sure as he ll would never let a dealer do a performance upgrade or engine trans work......it would only end up back there. They patch...not fix. Sad but these are big boy toys that probably shouldn't even have a warranty like a race car. That would weed out guys that can't afford them. That was in no way aimed at you . Just a general statement.
Sounds to me like this guy got burned out of his warranty and now finds out his bike is sumping so he pulls the trigger on an S&S oil pump. He has a hard lesson ahead when he finds out upgrading the oil pump may not address sumping in the M8. Its just a bandaid for a bigger design issue.
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Eccool (07-25-2018)
#23
Well 335 miles today......pretty sure it is running better as I will bet with more stable oil pressure the tensioner is keeping the chain and cam timing steady.( not a fan of gear drive but this had barely 001 run out) I know it was moving a degree or more with the 2 stage pump. I could move the chain and tensioner with my fingers. Not so after I primed the new 3 stage pump. No idea if it will help the guys having the other problems .. But it can't hurt. Cheaper than a week renting a bike for sure . Lmao
I do know valve train is a bit quieter on cold or hot start ..low rpms .It was never noisey but it's noticeable too me and not because I spent 620 bucks. I hear ship long before stuff lets go.......it's kinda what I do for a living .Good thing because I can't write or structure sentences worth a sh ....lol.
buy one don't buy one I don't really give a flunk.........just what I have had so far . Going on another 2500 mile trip so I am sure it will keep gettin it.
Just my worthless opinions. Lol
I do know valve train is a bit quieter on cold or hot start ..low rpms .It was never noisey but it's noticeable too me and not because I spent 620 bucks. I hear ship long before stuff lets go.......it's kinda what I do for a living .Good thing because I can't write or structure sentences worth a sh ....lol.
buy one don't buy one I don't really give a flunk.........just what I have had so far . Going on another 2500 mile trip so I am sure it will keep gettin it.
Just my worthless opinions. Lol
#24
Well 335 miles today......pretty sure it is running better as I will bet with more stable oil pressure the tensioner is keeping the chain and cam timing steady.( not a fan of gear drive but this had barely 001 run out) I know it was moving a degree or more with the 2 stage pump. I could move the chain and tensioner with my fingers. Not so after I primed the new 3 stage pump. No idea if it will help the guys having the other problems .. But it can't hurt. Cheaper than a week renting a bike for sure . Lmao
I do know valve train is a bit quieter on cold or hot start ..low rpms .It was never noisey but it's noticeable too me and not because I spent 620 bucks. I hear ship long before stuff lets go.......it's kinda what I do for a living .Good thing because I can't write or structure sentences worth a sh ....lol.
buy one don't buy one I don't really give a flunk.........just what I have had so far . Going on another 2500 mile trip so I am sure it will keep gettin it.
Just my worthless opinions. Lol
I do know valve train is a bit quieter on cold or hot start ..low rpms .It was never noisey but it's noticeable too me and not because I spent 620 bucks. I hear ship long before stuff lets go.......it's kinda what I do for a living .Good thing because I can't write or structure sentences worth a sh ....lol.
buy one don't buy one I don't really give a flunk.........just what I have had so far . Going on another 2500 mile trip so I am sure it will keep gettin it.
Just my worthless opinions. Lol
Scavenging is another issue but for me on a stage 2 107 rk, I don't have any evidence of sumping. Oil temps are always between 220 and 240 with ambient in the 80s to 100s. I don't sit in traffic much tho.
The following 2 users liked this post by Max Headflow:
Bumpandrun (07-14-2018),
Eccool (07-25-2018)
#25
I have an oil pressure gauge on the 17 RK and the oil pressure behaves exactly like the pressure on one of my TCs with and SnS pump in it. Idle is 15 to 20 psi, running down the road they both get 40-45 PSI at 2500 rpm. Not sure you can improve on either. Might have a good idea to gotten one for your bike before you tried the switch. Then you'd have a something more than "I bet"
Scavenging is another issue but for me on a stage 2 107 rk, I don't have any evidence of sumping. Oil temps are always between 220 and 240 with ambient in the 80s to 100s. I don't sit in traffic much tho.
Scavenging is another issue but for me on a stage 2 107 rk, I don't have any evidence of sumping. Oil temps are always between 220 and 240 with ambient in the 80s to 100s. I don't sit in traffic much tho.
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Kyle Moore (07-14-2018)
#26
I guess I could have...but I didn't really care to do testing for others. I did it for ME...kinda selfish that way. Lol What I do know is the tensioner on stock cam plate won't hold on a warm motor that I just took apart to the point I could change cam timing with my fingers ( almost changed tensioner ) But primed the pump and plate in aftermarket one...no way could I move the tensioner or change cam timing like I did with OEM. All the testing I needed. I kinda trust the S&S plate and pump . All the twinks I did they were a big improvement at hot idle and actually held pretty steady at 1800-5000. Hey if somebody else wants too test pressures ...be my guest. I wanted a 3 stage( rotor )billet pump not a 2 stage cast(OEM). The plus was looking at a cam plate that the cam hole was already showing wear on a cheap cast piece. I understand it's only one cam now opening 8 valves instead of 2 cams opening 2 valves each. Big difference to me. But he ll what do I know...lol. Off to empty the gas tank again....coffee all gone. Have a great weekend .
The following 2 users liked this post by $tonecold:
Bumpandrun (07-15-2018),
LXT (07-20-2018)
#27
I guess I could have...but I didn't really care to do testing for others. I did it for ME...kinda selfish that way. Lol What I do know is the tensioner on stock cam plate won't hold on a warm motor that I just took apart to the point I could change cam timing with my fingers ( almost changed tensioner ) But primed the pump and plate in aftermarket one...no way could I move the tensioner or change cam timing like I did with OEM. All the testing I needed. I kinda trust the S&S plate and pump . All the twinks I did they were a big improvement at hot idle and actually held pretty steady at 1800-5000. Hey if somebody else wants too test pressures ...be my guest. I wanted a 3 stage( rotor )billet pump not a 2 stage cast(OEM). The plus was looking at a cam plate that the cam hole was already showing wear on a cheap cast piece. I understand it's only one cam now opening 8 valves instead of 2 cams opening 2 valves each. Big difference to me. But he ll what do I know...lol. Off to empty the gas tank again....coffee all gone. Have a great weekend .
Not sure I understand the cam tensioner thing. It's hydraulic like a lifter. Once all the air is bled out of it, it won't move no matter which pump is being used.. Oil pressure won't make any difference. Oi pressure from the pump is not what holds the tensioner in position. It's the oil in a chamber trapped by a small one way valve. It bleeds down just like a lifter.
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Eccool (07-25-2018)
#28
Not sure I understand the cam tensioner thing. It's hydraulic like a lifter. Once all the air is bled out of it, it won't move no matter which pump is being used.. Oil pressure won't make any difference. Oi pressure from the pump is not what holds the tensioner in position. It's the oil in a chamber trapped by a small one way valve. It bleeds down just like a lifter.
#29
Mabye harley is looking in the right spot but at the wrong part. If the s&s cam plate is not only keeping the timing where it should be but providing the new oil pump a better seal in the cam chest then maybe some of the issues are due to a ill fitting stock cam plate. Like you said if the oil pressure is way more consistent it seems to be doing a better job evacuating oil from the sump, especially when the stock cam plate gets worn and allows it to pull air instead of oil.
#30