So I wanted more low-end torque out of my stage 2 and decided to swap out my Wood WM8-222 cam for the Cycle-Rama 460.


I just got it back from the dyno tuner and definitely do not notice any major difference. On top of that, it is definitely not as smooth as the 222.


My old cam was just auto-tuned based on a map I got from Fuel-Moto and it ran great after some tweaking. I'm thinking my tuner doesn't have much experience with the new M8 and based all his table values off the twin-cam. I have a map from Jamie for my current set-up that I might try instead and just swallow the $300. Either way, it's disappointing to spend that kind of money and not get the results you were expecting.

 

Sorry to hear. That brings up a good point though. Can you NOT be happy with a dyno and get a refund? lol I mean, take it to another shop, get it tuned and if its much better go back and demand a refund on the first one. I realize there are so many variants on a dyno, but there should never be so much difference if all things are equal except for the experience of the guy doing the work.

 

Any Dyno Tune is only as good as the tuner performing it.....

 

First, I would take a look at Fuel Moto's site to find a M8 222 dyno run to compare.

2nd, I hate to further disappoint, but STD correction factor can produce 3+% higher numbers than if they had use the more accurate and comparable SAE correction factor.

Here's one of their runs with a 222 cam and their Jackpot 2-1 (which would probably perform better than the header you have now).

 

Yeah, I kind of doubt it and that's the frustrating part because, as others have mentioned, a dyno tune is only as good as the tuner. So it's a crapshoot taking it to someplace else.

 

Yeah, I already noticed the correction factor. It's a CR-460 though (my old cam was a 222) and so far my dyno chart has the lowest torque value of any posted results I've seen.

 

The correction factor is only 1.01 per your chart and your results are right inline with what $tonecold and I found on his bike with basically the same setup. While it is what it is, I do not think your truly going to find anymore real power with your setup. I'm not sticking up for the tuner as I think it could be smoothed out some and you might see a slight change in the dyno chart but no real peak gains. You could go to another dyno that reads higher on the chart but what really counts is how it rides for you. You do NOT ride a dyno chart.

 

After many dynos on diff bikes, I just learned this a few months ago when I had my bike dyno'd after removing the CAT. He told me, he smoothed some things out and it gained about 3 torque and HP was a couple I think (SAE). I argued that it wasn't true because my first dyno from another dealer was exactly very similar (STD). He, then, gave me a quick class on the difference and showed me what my actual numbers should/could have been on that first dyno (STD). I never knew that .....did some reading on diff forums, including sports cars, and was amazed.

 

Thanks Steve,


I'm not a numbers chaser by any means but it definitely doesn't run as smooth as I think it should. It's not horrible per se, but like my original post said, I am definitely disappointed by the results. I feel like a map and a few auto-runs could've gotten me these same results or better.

 

well since you can't ride a dyno chart, how does it perform in the real world?