Looking to see if anyone out there has any experience in where they had a Stage II done and slapped a PV on and ran the autotune, then compared that to a full Dyno Tune.
If so, how close did the PV Autotune get you to Dyno settings?


I have a 17 RG with SE Stage II cam and full exhaust system installed. My tuner's Dyno machine locked up on another bike prior to mine being tuned. He went ahead and flashed with a PV license and ran several sessions of autotune and got it to where it wasn't learning any new cells.
He said he's pretty confident the PV got the bike real close to Dyno settings, and said he'd like to compare it when I bring it back in for the Dyno.


Just curious if anyone else had maybe run the PV autotune first, then had a full Dyno run and compared the two.


Thanks in advance

 

If the only purpose for dyno tuning was to recalibrate the VE tables then an autotune is the answer.
That said, dyno tuning involves more than just fuel changes to the cruise area. Ignition timing, which is very important and largely ignored by the “DIY autotune to avoid the dyno tuner” crowd is just as important IF you are looking for the best running bike.
Cold start, hot start, warm up enrichment, choosing best area fro closed loop operation considering build and exhaust design, are a few other tuning points not addressed by the autotune efforts.
Bob

 

I've done both, in my opinion Dyno tunes are only good for that day, Once the temperature, humidity, air density, sea level changes your out of tune. I've had excellent results with a good base tune you find on Dynojets website, other members, Fuel Moto etc. and use auto tune or target tune with wideband sensors, Target tune is the best cause it is constantly make adjustments. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

since the auto tune still runs everthing through an algorithm to calculate the tune, you still are going to be able get better fuel economy and more peak power out of a dyno tune.

 

forgive me if I'm missing something here...so when I got my bike dyno tuned in March of last year, then rode to Glacier in July in over triple digit temps, then up to Logan Pass Summit in cold temps my bike was waffling between being in tune and out of tune the whole time?..all the while it ran fantastic the whole trip with no noticeable change in performance?

 

Since the engine management system monitors and alters the tune based on temperatures, altuitude, and load, your statement about the tune only good for the day is, well, uninformed.
Most stage 1 bikes can use a canned map to get close but an autotune will most always show changes needed to the calibration for fueling from injector production variances (+/-10+ %), exhaust, and cams, etc changes.
Target tune is not necessary to get the engine to run its best...ability to properly measure and make experienced changes to maximize performance (smoothness, response, power, and mileage) is.
There are no systems out there available to replace the quality of a proper dyno tune from and experienced knowledgeable tuner. Never have been and never will be...sorry but true.
Ride a properly tuned bike...big inch or stage 1 and you’ll feel the difference.
Just ride what you have...it’s the best you know, so what could be better? Right?
Bob
PS - If your dyno tune changed with weather and altitude, something is not working properly.

 

hes saying that the tune you have isnt optimal for triple digit temps or colder weather. Since probably lean in the cold, and rich in the heat as the air density changes with temperature and humidity. Hes saying the auto tune can correct for the ambient air temperature, and thats true it can but it's still got a large margin of error and extra amount of safety built in and IMO auto tune tends to run rich to avoid lean conditions and tends to be rather conservative with timing. a Dyno tune is 100% safe for your average riding conditions unless, you tuned it at one extreme or the other and ride more in the opposite condition.

 

ok, was tuned in the Spring in average temps...not going to worry about it because since that time I've ridden from sea level to 10000 feet and temps from freezing to over triple digits and about everything in between, and how my bike ran was seamless and transparent

 

Today's HD have sensors that provide values to calculate and modify tables based on altitude and temperature, these tables will add or subtract values from the VE table. The ECM will ensure that the right amount of fuel and the timing is correct regardless of your tune (dyno/autotune), your bike should run perfectly at any altitude or temperature.

 

+1^^^^

but...

Losing battle...