Although not always recommended, in a jam you can just twist the boot a little and pull out the wire like you've probably done on every car or bike you've owned.
They come right out without the need for any tool. Done it many times without any issues.
[QUOTE=Ridetothehill;17971040]The lisle 51750 may not fit in that tight space. I just ordered the 51250. Did anybody bleed the pressure from the fuel system before removing tank. The book says to unplug the connector for the fuel pump, then run the engine until it dies. Crank the starter to make sure there is no fuel pressure.
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The tool 51750 works, its the angle that makes it a winner. Never tried the 51250 it may be a winner too... Good Times...
The lisle 51750 may not fit in that tight space. I just ordered the 51250. Did anybody bleed the pressure from the fuel system before removing tank. The book says to unplug the connector for the fuel pump, then run the engine until it dies. Crank the starter to make sure there is no fuel pressure.
I own the Lisle 51250 and have used it on the inside plug boots. It seems to work well. I also have the pliers with the rounded hook end. The 51250 worked so I don’t know that I even tried the pliers. As far as disconnecting the fuel line, if you don’t relieve the pressure a little gas will come out. It has always just dribbled out, but for safety’s sake don’t put your face close to the connection while you’re disconnecting the line.
I own the Lisle 51250 and have used it on the inside plug boots. It seems to work well. I also have the pliers with the rounded hook end. The 51250 worked so I don’t know that I even tried the pliers. As far as disconnecting the fuel line, if you don’t relieve the pressure a little gas will come out. It has always just dribbled out, but for safety’s sake don’t put your face close to the connection while you’re disconnecting the line.
Thank you $tone. I was wondering about that fuel pressure thing. I don;t want to start the bike up on the jack. I'll just wrap a rag around the tank quick disconnect.
my front under tank plug wire rubbed and now it is no good. check them damm wires. The spark plug gap opened up quite a bit, .041 and bigger with 31,000 miles on plugs.
The lisle 51750 may not fit in that tight space. I just ordered the 51250. Did anybody bleed the pressure from the fuel system before removing tank. The book says to unplug the connector for the fuel pump, then run the engine until it dies. Crank the starter to make sure there is no fuel pressure.
I've pulled my tank 4 times in two years and have never done that.
Gonna try Lisle Tool 51750 Adjustable Engine Spark Plug Wire Puller . I had a hard time pulling those off as well . Can they make it any harder to change plugs ?
at least you don't have to take the wheels off to do it..... unlike my truck.
Originally Posted by Ridetothehill
Thank you $tone. I was wondering about that fuel pressure thing. I don;t want to start the bike up on the jack. I'll just wrap a rag around the tank quick disconnect.
I've never lost more than a drop of fuel when removing the tank. usually less of an issue if you are working on a cold engine, and haven't turned on the ignition in a while
01-19-2019, 08:16 AM
