Wanted: clarity on sumping
#31
Hi I am considering getting into a slightly used 2017 RGU. There are a few long threads on the sumping issue and for those of us late to the party I am wondering:
What is sumping? How would I know it's happening?
Is it only an issue with Stage 3/4 builds or is it also an issue with stock engines?
Is it an equal issue whether 2017 or 2018 model, or does a different oil pump or some such fix the issue on 2018's?
I realize many will tell me to do the research but the main thread on this issue has over 1000 posts and I think many of us could benefit from a recap. Thank you.
What is sumping? How would I know it's happening?
Is it only an issue with Stage 3/4 builds or is it also an issue with stock engines?
Is it an equal issue whether 2017 or 2018 model, or does a different oil pump or some such fix the issue on 2018's?
I realize many will tell me to do the research but the main thread on this issue has over 1000 posts and I think many of us could benefit from a recap. Thank you.
we have one guy here that had 4 -5 or maybe 10 motors supposedly blow up ...who knows.....even he has no clue. But it always gets blamed on what he thinks was oiling. If you have a dealer pull a brandnew motor apart. Your already in big trouble. Takes lots of time to,just blueprint a set of cyl and Pistons . Let alone pull heads apart.....check throttle plates.
Now this is my personal experance with dealer installed "STAGE" kits. Rings with end gap so tight is was never going to last .Next up rings installed upside down....overlap oil ring spacers.Pistons with .001 piston to wall clearance( could have just been honed to fix ) I have seen rods damaged from techs not supporting rods and just banging wrist pins in with a dead blow( witnessed)
I'll stop here on the install part. But so so so much more.
Now a halfa$$ed install goes bad in 500 miles motor is now full of shrapnel and the dealer will blow it out with air and brake clean. Guess what ? its gonna let go over and over again. The rite way a good engine builder does it...Complete Motor ,oil passages,oil pan / bag all need to be pulled down to nothing. Next up oil coolers and lines go in trash...they can't be cleaned. Than u have the poor bas tard that does have a bad oil pump get lumped into the same pile. It's rare but does happen . Get away from the forums and ask the actual owners if m8s ..... 97% of them are gonna tell u only problem?
stop smiling and keeeeeeping the damn gas tank full. Lmao!!! Go get one you'll enjoy it like most of us do.....
#32
#33
Let me just say I have a stage three. First off for those of you that do not have a stage three and are making incorrect assumptions from those HD posted dyno sheets, the power comes on much sooner than 4000 or 5000rpm as posted. You will notice a big change beginning at 3000 rpm. I do not tend to stay in the 5 k rpm range but only very briefly. I do stay between 3000 and 3800 most of the time. Have not experienced sumping nor tranny fluid migration. I have decided to change fluids every 1000 miles for awhile for that very reason. This allows direct inspection of the fluids and so far, hope and fingers crossed not an ounce of fluid being where it’s not supposed to be and clean as a pin just like it came out of the bottle. I think if you beat on your bike you greatly increase your chances of experiencing issues. Course that is just an opinion as I have no data to back up that assumption .
Once you’ve ridden a bike with a stage IV, you’ll never be satisfied with a stock bike.
Last edited by Heatwave; 07-17-2018 at 08:57 AM.
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