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Wanted: clarity on sumping

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  #31  
Old 07-16-2018 | 06:19 PM
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Bumpandrun
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From: Vermont
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Originally Posted by Grouser62
Hi I am considering getting into a slightly used 2017 RGU. There are a few long threads on the sumping issue and for those of us late to the party I am wondering:
What is sumping? How would I know it's happening?
Is it only an issue with Stage 3/4 builds or is it also an issue with stock engines?
Is it an equal issue whether 2017 or 2018 model, or does a different oil pump or some such fix the issue on 2018's?
I realize many will tell me to do the research but the main thread on this issue has over 1000 posts and I think many of us could benefit from a recap. Thank you.
The biggest problem you will see is with dealer modified motors ......(the STAGE BOLT ON JUNK for the more money than brains club). Good 90 % of the problems are bolt on kits sold by the MOCO that are pure garbage. The tolerances are never checked by the techs doing the work at the dealers. Pistons and cyl scored too hell...over heating.Bent rods ..Luv that excuse...All blamed on oiling problems when truth be told it's the mass produced crap stage kits that the techs don't do the finish work on like a REAL engine builders does . But the more money than brains club wants a warranty and financing so they gets garbage work.
we have one guy here that had 4 -5 or maybe 10 motors supposedly blow up ...who knows.....even he has no clue. But it always gets blamed on what he thinks was oiling. If you have a dealer pull a brandnew motor apart. Your already in big trouble. Takes lots of time to,just blueprint a set of cyl and Pistons . Let alone pull heads apart.....check throttle plates.
Now this is my personal experance with dealer installed "STAGE" kits. Rings with end gap so tight is was never going to last .Next up rings installed upside down....overlap oil ring spacers.Pistons with .001 piston to wall clearance( could have just been honed to fix ) I have seen rods damaged from techs not supporting rods and just banging wrist pins in with a dead blow( witnessed)
I'll stop here on the install part. But so so so much more.
Now a halfa$$ed install goes bad in 500 miles motor is now full of shrapnel and the dealer will blow it out with air and brake clean. Guess what ? its gonna let go over and over again. The rite way a good engine builder does it...Complete Motor ,oil passages,oil pan / bag all need to be pulled down to nothing. Next up oil coolers and lines go in trash...they can't be cleaned. Than u have the poor bas tard that does have a bad oil pump get lumped into the same pile. It's rare but does happen . Get away from the forums and ask the actual owners if m8s ..... 97% of them are gonna tell u only problem?
stop smiling and keeeeeeping the damn gas tank full. Lmao!!! Go get one you'll enjoy it like most of us do.....
 
  #32  
Old 07-17-2018 | 07:23 AM
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CWOFOR
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From: Menominee, MI
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Originally Posted by Bumpandrun

.......... Get away from the forums and ask the actual owners if m8s ..... 97% of them are gonna tell u only problem?
stop smiling and keeeeeeping the damn gas tank full. Lmao!!! Go get one you'll enjoy it like most of us do.....
Agreed. These are the only two problems I've had with mine so far.
 
  #33  
Old 07-17-2018 | 08:55 AM
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Heatwave
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Originally Posted by BigRed117
Let me just say I have a stage three. First off for those of you that do not have a stage three and are making incorrect assumptions from those HD posted dyno sheets, the power comes on much sooner than 4000 or 5000rpm as posted. You will notice a big change beginning at 3000 rpm. I do not tend to stay in the 5 k rpm range but only very briefly. I do stay between 3000 and 3800 most of the time. Have not experienced sumping nor tranny fluid migration. I have decided to change fluids every 1000 miles for awhile for that very reason. This allows direct inspection of the fluids and so far, hope and fingers crossed not an ounce of fluid being where it’s not supposed to be and clean as a pin just like it came out of the bottle. I think if you beat on your bike you greatly increase your chances of experiencing issues. Course that is just an opinion as I have no data to back up that assumption .
Same is true for Stage IV. Some of the comments being made about the power increases on a stage IV are simply clueless. The power of a Stage IV comes on at 3000+rpms. The biggest difference compared to stock is because the stock engine is utterly dead above 4000 rpms while a stage IV continues to increase in hp. But the Stage IV is still a dramatic increase at 3000rpms and above.

Once you’ve ridden a bike with a stage IV, you’ll never be satisfied with a stock bike.
 

Last edited by Heatwave; 07-17-2018 at 08:57 AM.
  #34  
Old 07-17-2018 | 09:05 AM
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Larry64
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: SE Michigan
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Donny Peterson has started a series on this in the last two issues of American Iron. It's a good read from a very smart guy.
 
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