Milwaukee Eight (M8) 2017 and up M8 Air and Liquid Cooled discussion
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Transmission fluid transfer service bulletin

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  #561  
Old 01-12-2018, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
The good news is that if you don't ride the bike you won't have the issue..
Putting miles on my bike will be a non issue for me. Only get to ride about 6 -7 months out of the year here. Logged over 12k on my 09 EGC last summer. Hope to put twice that much on this new one. Time will tell. C'mon spring! Thanks
 
  #562  
Old 01-12-2018, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by $tonecold
Sorry about your riding problem, it was nice here in the Phoenix area today. Supposed to be even better tomorrow.

When you get the chance, just ride your bike and enjoy it. You have a better chance of not having problems than you do of having them.

Hey Max, how slick does the sealing surface for a seal have to be. The machinist said it was polished. If I run my finger nail across it I can just barely feel the bit tracks. To the touch it feels smooth. Should I do something else to finish it or just go with it and see how it does?
I'm not Max but here's my opinion...

Obviously a smoother surface finish is better. But looking at the application a perfect seal is probably not necessary. You're really only looking to stop what is essentially a trickle through the mainshaft. And even if it seeps a little the leakage will be internal.

Ideally the sealing surface could have been ground to final dimensions rather than turned (cut). But since it sounds like it was turned to size you could always chuck it up and polish it with something like 220G wet or dry paper.

Without seeing the surface finish first hand it's really hard to make a determinative assessment but considering the application I'd say you have a little margin.
 
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  #563  
Old 01-12-2018, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 2black1s
I'm not Max but here's my opinion...

Obviously a smoother surface finish is better. But looking at the application a perfect seal is probably not necessary. You're really only looking to stop what is essentially a trickle through the mainshaft. And even if it seeps a little the leakage will be internal.

Ideally the sealing surface could have been ground to final dimensions rather than turned (cut). But since it sounds like it was turned to size you could always chuck it up and polish it with something like 220G wet or dry paper.

Without seeing the surface finish first hand it's really hard to make a determinative assessment but considering the application I'd say you have a little margin.
The ID of the shaft bore nor the OD of the push rod have to be perfect. But the uniformity of the parts have to be correct... Surface tension of the oil has to be allowed to work... So simple and HD hasn't a ****ing clue...
 

Last edited by psyshack; 01-12-2018 at 11:45 PM.
  #564  
Old 01-13-2018, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 2black1s
I'm not Max but here's my opinion...

Obviously a smoother surface finish is better. But looking at the application a perfect seal is probably not necessary. You're really only looking to stop what is essentially a trickle through the mainshaft. And even if it seeps a little the leakage will be internal.

Ideally the sealing surface could have been ground to final dimensions rather than turned (cut). But since it sounds like it was turned to size you could always chuck it up and polish it with something like 220G wet or dry paper.

Without seeing the surface finish first hand it's really hard to make a determinative assessment but considering the application I'd say you have a little margin.
I don’t have a lathe, but I can probably come up with a way to spin it. Is 220 fine enough? I was kind of thinking 380 or finer. And it does have to seal or I’ll have a leak. I’m going to vent the primary through the clutch actuator. I guess if I put the vent at the top and still sealed the actuator, if it did leak it would just go to the primary.
 
  #565  
Old 01-13-2018, 01:16 AM
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I would agree that 220 is a little rough.. I'd go somewhere between 360 and 600.. For me it's usually whatever I find first. You can probably spin the pushrod in a drill. Instead of sanding with your thumb or stick, it's better IMO to use a 1 inch wide wet and dry strip spin it in a lathe or drill while holding both ends of the paper strip. Doing so helps to ensure that the surface is round to the axis and flat length wise.
 
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  #566  
Old 01-13-2018, 07:37 AM
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StevenL808, thanks for great update! Do you know how long it takes for service tech to do the fix /how big a job it is?
 
  #567  
Old 05-15-2018, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by DaddyKnuck
I don't have the problem in just over 15K miles, but I have ordered the parts from Boardtracker just in case it starts. For a little over $40 including shipping I'll have the parts on hand if needed.



Obviously the Harley bulletin indicates it did start with the Rushmores. They also have a fix for it as indicated in the document. As with the M8's, the problem wasn't with all Rushmores, just some.
I had the problem on my 2017 RGS TOOK it to the dealer they checked fluid levels and then pressurized the system then filled to proper levels and the problem was fixed. They think one of the seals was not in all the way. And once pressurized it seated the seals. Three other people I know had the problem and pressurizing the system fixed theirs also.
 
  #568  
Old 05-15-2018, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by merritta
I had the problem on my 2017 RGS TOOK it to the dealer they checked fluid levels and then pressurized the system then filled to proper levels and the problem was fixed. They think one of the seals was not in all the way. And once pressurized it seated the seals. Three other people I know had the problem and pressurizing the system fixed theirs also.
Huh? What seal?
 
  #569  
Old 05-15-2018, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by SoCalHDMC


Huh? What seal?

 
  #570  
Old 05-15-2018, 08:48 PM
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Why that would be the slinky spring seal on the discombobulator valve actuator.

Why do I get the feeling we won't get an answer...
 


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