Transmission fluid transfer service bulletin
#561
Putting miles on my bike will be a non issue for me. Only get to ride about 6 -7 months out of the year here. Logged over 12k on my 09 EGC last summer. Hope to put twice that much on this new one. Time will tell. C'mon spring! Thanks
#562
Sorry about your riding problem, it was nice here in the Phoenix area today. Supposed to be even better tomorrow.
When you get the chance, just ride your bike and enjoy it. You have a better chance of not having problems than you do of having them.
Hey Max, how slick does the sealing surface for a seal have to be. The machinist said it was polished. If I run my finger nail across it I can just barely feel the bit tracks. To the touch it feels smooth. Should I do something else to finish it or just go with it and see how it does?
When you get the chance, just ride your bike and enjoy it. You have a better chance of not having problems than you do of having them.
Hey Max, how slick does the sealing surface for a seal have to be. The machinist said it was polished. If I run my finger nail across it I can just barely feel the bit tracks. To the touch it feels smooth. Should I do something else to finish it or just go with it and see how it does?
Obviously a smoother surface finish is better. But looking at the application a perfect seal is probably not necessary. You're really only looking to stop what is essentially a trickle through the mainshaft. And even if it seeps a little the leakage will be internal.
Ideally the sealing surface could have been ground to final dimensions rather than turned (cut). But since it sounds like it was turned to size you could always chuck it up and polish it with something like 220G wet or dry paper.
Without seeing the surface finish first hand it's really hard to make a determinative assessment but considering the application I'd say you have a little margin.
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$tonecold (01-13-2018)
#563
I'm not Max but here's my opinion...
Obviously a smoother surface finish is better. But looking at the application a perfect seal is probably not necessary. You're really only looking to stop what is essentially a trickle through the mainshaft. And even if it seeps a little the leakage will be internal.
Ideally the sealing surface could have been ground to final dimensions rather than turned (cut). But since it sounds like it was turned to size you could always chuck it up and polish it with something like 220G wet or dry paper.
Without seeing the surface finish first hand it's really hard to make a determinative assessment but considering the application I'd say you have a little margin.
Obviously a smoother surface finish is better. But looking at the application a perfect seal is probably not necessary. You're really only looking to stop what is essentially a trickle through the mainshaft. And even if it seeps a little the leakage will be internal.
Ideally the sealing surface could have been ground to final dimensions rather than turned (cut). But since it sounds like it was turned to size you could always chuck it up and polish it with something like 220G wet or dry paper.
Without seeing the surface finish first hand it's really hard to make a determinative assessment but considering the application I'd say you have a little margin.
Last edited by psyshack; 01-12-2018 at 11:45 PM.
#564
I'm not Max but here's my opinion...
Obviously a smoother surface finish is better. But looking at the application a perfect seal is probably not necessary. You're really only looking to stop what is essentially a trickle through the mainshaft. And even if it seeps a little the leakage will be internal.
Ideally the sealing surface could have been ground to final dimensions rather than turned (cut). But since it sounds like it was turned to size you could always chuck it up and polish it with something like 220G wet or dry paper.
Without seeing the surface finish first hand it's really hard to make a determinative assessment but considering the application I'd say you have a little margin.
Obviously a smoother surface finish is better. But looking at the application a perfect seal is probably not necessary. You're really only looking to stop what is essentially a trickle through the mainshaft. And even if it seeps a little the leakage will be internal.
Ideally the sealing surface could have been ground to final dimensions rather than turned (cut). But since it sounds like it was turned to size you could always chuck it up and polish it with something like 220G wet or dry paper.
Without seeing the surface finish first hand it's really hard to make a determinative assessment but considering the application I'd say you have a little margin.
#565
I would agree that 220 is a little rough.. I'd go somewhere between 360 and 600.. For me it's usually whatever I find first. You can probably spin the pushrod in a drill. Instead of sanding with your thumb or stick, it's better IMO to use a 1 inch wide wet and dry strip spin it in a lathe or drill while holding both ends of the paper strip. Doing so helps to ensure that the surface is round to the axis and flat length wise.
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$tonecold (01-13-2018)
#567
I don't have the problem in just over 15K miles, but I have ordered the parts from Boardtracker just in case it starts. For a little over $40 including shipping I'll have the parts on hand if needed.
Obviously the Harley bulletin indicates it did start with the Rushmores. They also have a fix for it as indicated in the document. As with the M8's, the problem wasn't with all Rushmores, just some.
Obviously the Harley bulletin indicates it did start with the Rushmores. They also have a fix for it as indicated in the document. As with the M8's, the problem wasn't with all Rushmores, just some.
#568
I had the problem on my 2017 RGS TOOK it to the dealer they checked fluid levels and then pressurized the system then filled to proper levels and the problem was fixed. They think one of the seals was not in all the way. And once pressurized it seated the seals. Three other people I know had the problem and pressurizing the system fixed theirs also.
#569
#570