The AfterMarket Stereo Install
#1
08-09-2017, 09:24 AM
The AfterMarket Stereo Install
Well I finally finished my complete stereo amp and speaker upgrade on my 17 Road glide standard.
Here is my parts list:
front fairing speakers Pioneer TS-A1676R 6.5-Inch 3-Way Speakers rated at 320 watts. direct bolt in with no adaptors
Saddle bag speakers Pioneer TS-A6995R 6x9 5 way speakers rated at 600 watts
Soundstream PN4.520D 520W 4 Channel Class D Picasso Series Compact Amplifier PN4520D
Saddle bag lids Advan Black Superior Blue 6X9 Saddle Bags Speaker Lids
All total, I was around 600 bucks including the lids for the set up. A similar set up with something like hog tunes would have ran me close to 1300 to 1400 bucks including the saddle bag lids.
The original plan was to install the amp in the fairing. one quick check proved that was impossible with the size of the amp. I had to set that in the saddle bag which I hated since I lost storage capacity. But thinking about it, if I ever had an issue with the amp or blew a fuse on it, its very easy to get to now that its in the saddle bag.
the stock head unit only has 2 channels unless I got it flashed (which I didn't). I got my source at the speaker output from the head unit and ran wires back to the saddle bag for the amp input. I split the source for both front and back for each side.
I got power directly from the battery and I got remote power from the power wire from the 12 volt plug on the left side of the fairing. the remote power for the amp has to be from a line that is only active with the ignition on.
From the amp, I ran output lines back to the fairing and to each saddle bag. I set the gain to about 1/2 so I did not blow out the front speakers. With the amp, I had to tune the bass output on the head unit almost down to zero. I maxed out the treble. much more than zero on the bass would definitely blow out the speakers. Trust me even at a very low level, there is plenty of bass coming out of the system.
Advantages:
The system I have is CLEARLY superior to the hog tunes system. MUCH more sound and at a lower price. By coming out of the output line to the front speakers, I avoided the cost of flashing the head unit (maybe 40 bucks at a dealer).
Disadvantages:
Definitely not plug and play. I was good friends with the soldering iron, flux, wire cutters and shrink tubing. I also lost some saddle bag space.
oh and I lost one bolt to my fairing.
Here is my parts list:
front fairing speakers Pioneer TS-A1676R 6.5-Inch 3-Way Speakers rated at 320 watts. direct bolt in with no adaptors
Saddle bag speakers Pioneer TS-A6995R 6x9 5 way speakers rated at 600 watts
Soundstream PN4.520D 520W 4 Channel Class D Picasso Series Compact Amplifier PN4520D
Saddle bag lids Advan Black Superior Blue 6X9 Saddle Bags Speaker Lids
All total, I was around 600 bucks including the lids for the set up. A similar set up with something like hog tunes would have ran me close to 1300 to 1400 bucks including the saddle bag lids.
The original plan was to install the amp in the fairing. one quick check proved that was impossible with the size of the amp. I had to set that in the saddle bag which I hated since I lost storage capacity. But thinking about it, if I ever had an issue with the amp or blew a fuse on it, its very easy to get to now that its in the saddle bag.
the stock head unit only has 2 channels unless I got it flashed (which I didn't). I got my source at the speaker output from the head unit and ran wires back to the saddle bag for the amp input. I split the source for both front and back for each side.
I got power directly from the battery and I got remote power from the power wire from the 12 volt plug on the left side of the fairing. the remote power for the amp has to be from a line that is only active with the ignition on.
From the amp, I ran output lines back to the fairing and to each saddle bag. I set the gain to about 1/2 so I did not blow out the front speakers. With the amp, I had to tune the bass output on the head unit almost down to zero. I maxed out the treble. much more than zero on the bass would definitely blow out the speakers. Trust me even at a very low level, there is plenty of bass coming out of the system.
Advantages:
The system I have is CLEARLY superior to the hog tunes system. MUCH more sound and at a lower price. By coming out of the output line to the front speakers, I avoided the cost of flashing the head unit (maybe 40 bucks at a dealer).
Disadvantages:
Definitely not plug and play. I was good friends with the soldering iron, flux, wire cutters and shrink tubing. I also lost some saddle bag space.
oh and I lost one bolt to my fairing.
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HDRider17 (08-09-2017)
#3
08-09-2017, 10:11 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
Well I finally finished my complete stereo amp and speaker upgrade on my 17 Road glide standard.
Here is my parts list:
front fairing speakers Pioneer TS-A1676R 6.5-Inch 3-Way Speakers rated at 320 watts. direct bolt in with no adaptors
Saddle bag speakers Pioneer TS-A6995R 6x9 5 way speakers rated at 600 watts
Soundstream PN4.520D 520W 4 Channel Class D Picasso Series Compact Amplifier PN4520D
Saddle bag lids Advan Black Superior Blue 6X9 Saddle Bags Speaker Lids
All total, I was around 600 bucks including the lids for the set up. A similar set up with something like hog tunes would have ran me close to 1300 to 1400 bucks including the saddle bag lids.
The original plan was to install the amp in the fairing. one quick check proved that was impossible with the size of the amp. I had to set that in the saddle bag which I hated since I lost storage capacity. But thinking about it, if I ever had an issue with the amp or blew a fuse on it, its very easy to get to now that its in the saddle bag.
the stock head unit only has 2 channels unless I got it flashed (which I didn't). I got my source at the speaker output from the head unit and ran wires back to the saddle bag for the amp input. I split the source for both front and back for each side.
I got power directly from the battery and I got remote power from the power wire from the 12 volt plug on the left side of the fairing. the remote power for the amp has to be from a line that is only active with the ignition on.
From the amp, I ran output lines back to the fairing and to each saddle bag. I set the gain to about 1/2 so I did not blow out the front speakers. With the amp, I had to tune the bass output on the head unit almost down to zero. I maxed out the treble. much more than zero on the bass would definitely blow out the speakers. Trust me even at a very low level, there is plenty of bass coming out of the system.
Advantages:
The system I have is CLEARLY superior to the hog tunes system. MUCH more
sound and at a lower price. By coming out of the output line to the front speakers, I avoided the cost of flashing the head unit (maybe 40 bucks at a dealer).
Disadvantages:
Definitely not plug and play. I was good friends with the soldering iron, flux, wire cutters and shrink tubing. I also lost some saddle bag space.
oh and I lost one bolt to my fairing.
Here is my parts list:
front fairing speakers Pioneer TS-A1676R 6.5-Inch 3-Way Speakers rated at 320 watts. direct bolt in with no adaptors
Saddle bag speakers Pioneer TS-A6995R 6x9 5 way speakers rated at 600 watts
Soundstream PN4.520D 520W 4 Channel Class D Picasso Series Compact Amplifier PN4520D
Saddle bag lids Advan Black Superior Blue 6X9 Saddle Bags Speaker Lids
All total, I was around 600 bucks including the lids for the set up. A similar set up with something like hog tunes would have ran me close to 1300 to 1400 bucks including the saddle bag lids.
The original plan was to install the amp in the fairing. one quick check proved that was impossible with the size of the amp. I had to set that in the saddle bag which I hated since I lost storage capacity. But thinking about it, if I ever had an issue with the amp or blew a fuse on it, its very easy to get to now that its in the saddle bag.
the stock head unit only has 2 channels unless I got it flashed (which I didn't). I got my source at the speaker output from the head unit and ran wires back to the saddle bag for the amp input. I split the source for both front and back for each side.
I got power directly from the battery and I got remote power from the power wire from the 12 volt plug on the left side of the fairing. the remote power for the amp has to be from a line that is only active with the ignition on.
From the amp, I ran output lines back to the fairing and to each saddle bag. I set the gain to about 1/2 so I did not blow out the front speakers. With the amp, I had to tune the bass output on the head unit almost down to zero. I maxed out the treble. much more than zero on the bass would definitely blow out the speakers. Trust me even at a very low level, there is plenty of bass coming out of the system.
Advantages:
The system I have is CLEARLY superior to the hog tunes system. MUCH more
sound and at a lower price. By coming out of the output line to the front speakers, I avoided the cost of flashing the head unit (maybe 40 bucks at a dealer).
Disadvantages:
Definitely not plug and play. I was good friends with the soldering iron, flux, wire cutters and shrink tubing. I also lost some saddle bag space.
oh and I lost one bolt to my fairing.
Get out the camera and post some pics and turn on the video so we can hear it!!
#4
08-09-2017, 12:18 PM
Well I finally finished my complete stereo amp and speaker upgrade on my 17 Road glide standard.
Here is my parts list:
front fairing speakers Pioneer TS-A1676R 6.5-Inch 3-Way Speakers rated at 320 watts. direct bolt in with no adaptors
Saddle bag speakers Pioneer TS-A6995R 6x9 5 way speakers rated at 600 watts
Soundstream PN4.520D 520W 4 Channel Class D Picasso Series Compact Amplifier PN4520D
Saddle bag lids Advan Black Superior Blue 6X9 Saddle Bags Speaker Lids
All total, I was around 600 bucks including the lids for the set up. A similar set up with something like hog tunes would have ran me close to 1300 to 1400 bucks including the saddle bag lids.
The original plan was to install the amp in the fairing. one quick check proved that was impossible with the size of the amp. I had to set that in the saddle bag which I hated since I lost storage capacity. But thinking about it, if I ever had an issue with the amp or blew a fuse on it, its very easy to get to now that its in the saddle bag.
the stock head unit only has 2 channels unless I got it flashed (which I didn't). I got my source at the speaker output from the head unit and ran wires back to the saddle bag for the amp input. I split the source for both front and back for each side.
I got power directly from the battery and I got remote power from the power wire from the 12 volt plug on the left side of the fairing. the remote power for the amp has to be from a line that is only active with the ignition on.
From the amp, I ran output lines back to the fairing and to each saddle bag. I set the gain to about 1/2 so I did not blow out the front speakers. With the amp, I had to tune the bass output on the head unit almost down to zero. I maxed out the treble. much more than zero on the bass would definitely blow out the speakers. Trust me even at a very low level, there is plenty of bass coming out of the system.
Advantages:
The system I have is CLEARLY superior to the hog tunes system. MUCH more sound and at a lower price. By coming out of the output line to the front speakers, I avoided the cost of flashing the head unit (maybe 40 bucks at a dealer).
Disadvantages:
Definitely not plug and play. I was good friends with the soldering iron, flux, wire cutters and shrink tubing. I also lost some saddle bag space.
oh and I lost one bolt to my fairing.
Here is my parts list:
front fairing speakers Pioneer TS-A1676R 6.5-Inch 3-Way Speakers rated at 320 watts. direct bolt in with no adaptors
Saddle bag speakers Pioneer TS-A6995R 6x9 5 way speakers rated at 600 watts
Soundstream PN4.520D 520W 4 Channel Class D Picasso Series Compact Amplifier PN4520D
Saddle bag lids Advan Black Superior Blue 6X9 Saddle Bags Speaker Lids
All total, I was around 600 bucks including the lids for the set up. A similar set up with something like hog tunes would have ran me close to 1300 to 1400 bucks including the saddle bag lids.
The original plan was to install the amp in the fairing. one quick check proved that was impossible with the size of the amp. I had to set that in the saddle bag which I hated since I lost storage capacity. But thinking about it, if I ever had an issue with the amp or blew a fuse on it, its very easy to get to now that its in the saddle bag.
the stock head unit only has 2 channels unless I got it flashed (which I didn't). I got my source at the speaker output from the head unit and ran wires back to the saddle bag for the amp input. I split the source for both front and back for each side.
I got power directly from the battery and I got remote power from the power wire from the 12 volt plug on the left side of the fairing. the remote power for the amp has to be from a line that is only active with the ignition on.
From the amp, I ran output lines back to the fairing and to each saddle bag. I set the gain to about 1/2 so I did not blow out the front speakers. With the amp, I had to tune the bass output on the head unit almost down to zero. I maxed out the treble. much more than zero on the bass would definitely blow out the speakers. Trust me even at a very low level, there is plenty of bass coming out of the system.
Advantages:
The system I have is CLEARLY superior to the hog tunes system. MUCH more sound and at a lower price. By coming out of the output line to the front speakers, I avoided the cost of flashing the head unit (maybe 40 bucks at a dealer).
Disadvantages:
Definitely not plug and play. I was good friends with the soldering iron, flux, wire cutters and shrink tubing. I also lost some saddle bag space.
oh and I lost one bolt to my fairing.
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