who's been having to add transmission fluid?
#861
08-01-2017, 10:48 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
1. Using heel shifter I'd seek neutral before moving through to higher gears
2. I picked at what rpm the gear selected would slot in without making an audible click and try to replicate it through all my shifts.
3. I ran my bike at <4000 rpms for the first 3000km.
4. I didn't get a dyno tune until 9000 km.
I use no engine oil after 10,000km, no transmission oil is migrating, my primary level is correct, it's easy to select neutral and more often than not I get no audible clunk changing gears. Syn 3 in all holes. Bike made 97/109 dynoed not to run it in or soon after but after 9000km.
Loaner M8's gearboxes seem hard to select neutral and feel much clunkier shifting. Noticed this with 103 TC too.
The thing is - why is this not happening to all bikes? Well, my rough correlation from reading here is that high rpm transfer bikes often saw a dyno straight up, bikes that transfer at any rpm and in relatively few km also often report clunking on shift/hard to select neutral and then there are bike's like mine with slick gearboxes that don't transfer oil.
After last weekend's 1000km ride through the mountains of northern NSW (really going hard up to 5000rpm) I was quite sure I'd see transfer but no - still none. Then I remember how rough loan bikes are to ride when who knows who broke them in in who knows what fashion.
Until I hear a better explanation these are my thoughts on the issue.
2. I picked at what rpm the gear selected would slot in without making an audible click and try to replicate it through all my shifts.
3. I ran my bike at <4000 rpms for the first 3000km.
4. I didn't get a dyno tune until 9000 km.
I use no engine oil after 10,000km, no transmission oil is migrating, my primary level is correct, it's easy to select neutral and more often than not I get no audible clunk changing gears. Syn 3 in all holes. Bike made 97/109 dynoed not to run it in or soon after but after 9000km.
Loaner M8's gearboxes seem hard to select neutral and feel much clunkier shifting. Noticed this with 103 TC too.
The thing is - why is this not happening to all bikes? Well, my rough correlation from reading here is that high rpm transfer bikes often saw a dyno straight up, bikes that transfer at any rpm and in relatively few km also often report clunking on shift/hard to select neutral and then there are bike's like mine with slick gearboxes that don't transfer oil.
After last weekend's 1000km ride through the mountains of northern NSW (really going hard up to 5000rpm) I was quite sure I'd see transfer but no - still none. Then I remember how rough loan bikes are to ride when who knows who broke them in in who knows what fashion.
Until I hear a better explanation these are my thoughts on the issue.
Try rolling along at say 10-15 mph, let the clutch out slowly until the friction zone and the bike starts accelerate.. As soon as you feel the acceleration, **** the clutch in an repeat. You're not try to snap the drive drain just load it an unload it.. Does it rattle like someone closing a gate?
#862
08-01-2017, 10:56 PM
Mine never saw a dyno, is shifting smoothly (for a Harley) and is transferring approx 0,5l every 1000km. Currently in the shop for a new transmission. When I dropped the bike at the dealer, I told the guy that changing the transmission didn't improve the situation according to what I read here. He didn't get any different instructions from HD in the meantime, so he'll change the transmission....
The following 2 users liked this post by fwj:
FM500 (08-02-2017),
MotoJockey (08-01-2017)
#863
08-01-2017, 11:04 PM
Tourer
So you are saying you bump from 1st to neutral then Neutral to second when shifting first to second. Interesting... I would say you got lucky..
Try rolling along at say 10-15 mph, let the clutch out slowly until the friction zone and the bike starts accelerate.. As soon as you feel the acceleration, **** the clutch in an repeat. You're not try to snap the drive drain just load it an unload it.. Does it rattle like someone closing a gate?
Try rolling along at say 10-15 mph, let the clutch out slowly until the friction zone and the bike starts accelerate.. As soon as you feel the acceleration, **** the clutch in an repeat. You're not try to snap the drive drain just load it an unload it.. Does it rattle like someone closing a gate?
I'm not sure what you're leading to with the last part but I have never had nor am I going to attempt to induce a gate like rattle!
I've tried to piece all the info I can together and my rough correlation of members and their comments here led me to suggest that high rpm transfer bikes were dyno tuned very near new, low rpm low km transfer bikes have clunky shifting/hard to find neutral and bikes that report smooth trouble free boxes don't see transfer. It's not a hard and fast rule, just an observation. But I now see this being contradicted, that's part of the problem solving process, so let the evidence fall where it will.
But just because my bike is so far uneffected doesn't mean I don't want to find out what part is failing in effected bikes.
Last edited by Oz Dan; 08-01-2017 at 11:07 PM.
#864
08-01-2017, 11:06 PM
Mine never saw a dyno, is shifting smoothly (for a Harley) and is transferring approx 0,5l every 1000km. Currently in the shop for a new transmission. When I dropped the bike at the dealer, I told the guy that changing the transmission didn't improve the situation according to what I read here. He didn't get any different instructions from HD in the meantime, so he'll change the transmission....
The following users liked this post:
ocezam (08-02-2017)
#865
08-01-2017, 11:31 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
No, I'm saying as I moved through from first to second I did so in a manner that I could feel it move through neutral. It's just a slow shift for want of a better word. A regular shift you don't feel it. I don't bother anymore as my bike is run in nicely.
I'm not sure what you're leading to with the last part but I have never had nor am I going to attempt to induce a gate like rattle!
I've tried to piece all the info I can together and my rough correlation of members and their comments here led me to suggest that high rpm transfer bikes were dyno tuned very near new, low rpm low km transfer bikes have clunky shifting/hard to find neutral and bikes that report smooth trouble free boxes don't see transfer. It's not a hard and fast rule, just an observation. But I now see this being contradicted, that's part of the problem solving process, so let the evidence fall where it will.
But just because my bike is so far uneffected doesn't mean I don't want to find out what part is failing in effected bikes.
I'm not sure what you're leading to with the last part but I have never had nor am I going to attempt to induce a gate like rattle!
I've tried to piece all the info I can together and my rough correlation of members and their comments here led me to suggest that high rpm transfer bikes were dyno tuned very near new, low rpm low km transfer bikes have clunky shifting/hard to find neutral and bikes that report smooth trouble free boxes don't see transfer. It's not a hard and fast rule, just an observation. But I now see this being contradicted, that's part of the problem solving process, so let the evidence fall where it will.
But just because my bike is so far uneffected doesn't mean I don't want to find out what part is failing in effected bikes.
2. You baby the shift but run it up in RPMs. Afraid to bang it hard.
3. Not sure where you are going with shifting.. High RPM / low?? I broke mine in buy keeping ti below 4K but there was a bunch on 1/2 to full throttle at the lower RPMs.
4. I've ridden 3 m8s. One brand new demo, Rental from the start, and mine. They all clunked the same..
5. I guess you like the "Neaner, Neaner" thing instead of "Lets really fine out why." thing.
#866
08-01-2017, 11:50 PM
Tourer
1. Interesting on the shift.. So you are saying you shift real slow between 1 to 2 you are OK.
2. You baby the shift but run it up in RPMs. Afraid to bang it hard.
3. Not sure where you are going with shifting.. High RPM / low?? I broke mine in buy keeping ti below 4K but there was a bunch on 1/2 to full throttle at the lower RPMs.
4. I've ridden 3 m8s. One brand new demo, Rental from the start, and mine. They all clunked the same..
5. I guess you like the "Neaner, Neaner" thing instead of "Lets really fine out why." thing.
2. You baby the shift but run it up in RPMs. Afraid to bang it hard.
3. Not sure where you are going with shifting.. High RPM / low?? I broke mine in buy keeping ti below 4K but there was a bunch on 1/2 to full throttle at the lower RPMs.
4. I've ridden 3 m8s. One brand new demo, Rental from the start, and mine. They all clunked the same..
5. I guess you like the "Neaner, Neaner" thing instead of "Lets really fine out why." thing.
1. I slow shifted through neutral to second during run in. I did this when I ran in my TC too and that gearbox was better than all the demos/loaners I rode too. You are OK? Not sure what you mean but yeah I'm fine and so is my transmission unlike plenty here.
2. I'd slow shift from 1st across to 2nd then shift in a regular manner. I'd rev out to variable rpm, generally between 2-3 Thou rpm. Afraid to bang it hard? Again I don't follow but run in is run in. If changing before or around 3000rpm is being afraid to bang it hard I'm guilty but again my gearbox is fine plenty others not so.
3. I did the same.
4. All the other M8's I've ridden clunked too and were harder to find neutral. Mine is noticeably smoother so less clunky and neutral is easy to find. That's my point.
5. Sorry I just don't understand that sentence - Neaner? I'm a scientist - I live to find out why. I'm happy to admit I don't have a vast knowledge of this topic which is why I'm here.
On Internet forums it's difficult to get the tone of some replies. I've taken yours as constructive and happy to engage you as long as I continue to get that drift ok?
Last edited by Oz Dan; 08-01-2017 at 11:53 PM.
#867
08-02-2017, 12:06 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
Max, I'm not really understanding your points/questions, but I'll try to answer you again...I have plenty of time lying here in a sick bed so bear with me!
1. I slow shifted through neutral to second during run in. I did this when I ran in my TC too and that gearbox was better than all the demos/loaners I rode too. You are OK? Not sure what you mean but yeah I'm fine and so is my transmission unlike plenty here.
2. I'd slow shift from 1st across to 2nd then shift in a regular manner. I'd rev out to variable rpm, generally between 2-3 Thou rpm. Afraid to bang it hard? Again I don't follow but run in is run in. If changing before or around 3000rpm is being afraid to bang it hard I'm guilty but again my gearbox is fine plenty others not so.
3. I did the same.
4. All the other M8's I've ridden clunked too and were harder to find neutral. Mine is noticeably smoother so less clunky and neutral is easy to find. That's my point.
5. Sorry I just don't understand that sentence - Neaner? I'm a scientist - I live to find out why. I'm happy to admit I don't have a vast knowledge of this topic which is why I'm here.
On Internet forums it's difficult to get the tone of some replies. I've taken yours as constructive and happy to engage you as long as I continue to get that drift ok?
1. I slow shifted through neutral to second during run in. I did this when I ran in my TC too and that gearbox was better than all the demos/loaners I rode too. You are OK? Not sure what you mean but yeah I'm fine and so is my transmission unlike plenty here.
2. I'd slow shift from 1st across to 2nd then shift in a regular manner. I'd rev out to variable rpm, generally between 2-3 Thou rpm. Afraid to bang it hard? Again I don't follow but run in is run in. If changing before or around 3000rpm is being afraid to bang it hard I'm guilty but again my gearbox is fine plenty others not so.
3. I did the same.
4. All the other M8's I've ridden clunked too and were harder to find neutral. Mine is noticeably smoother so less clunky and neutral is easy to find. That's my point.
5. Sorry I just don't understand that sentence - Neaner? I'm a scientist - I live to find out why. I'm happy to admit I don't have a vast knowledge of this topic which is why I'm here.
On Internet forums it's difficult to get the tone of some replies. I've taken yours as constructive and happy to engage you as long as I continue to get that drift ok?
#868
08-02-2017, 12:47 AM
#869
08-02-2017, 06:25 AM
Road Warrior
#870
08-02-2017, 09:37 AM
HD EFI Guru
I spoke to the guy doing the work on it and he told me most of what he did per the email HD corp sent them. The vent system was check by pushing compressed air into the the oil fill and checking airflow out of the vent hose, Clutch slave removed check the rubber seal on it for cracks. Then remove the vent cover plate and check gasket sealing and replace gasket. While vent plate remove inspect some passageways. Remove clutch pushrod and inspect mainshaft hole for obstructions. Open primary and check torque on Clutch basket and engine output shaft. Remove the primary chain and pieces to replace main seal and the sleeve it rides on, reassemble. With all that done give bike back and have customer return for level check every 100 miles. Result, one day riding through the mountain roads about 80 miles the transmission dipstick is dry. So back to the dealership it goes.
The following 4 users liked this post by Steve Cole:
103Eagle (08-11-2017),
Max Headflow (08-02-2017),
MotoJockey (08-02-2017),
Wide Open Cycles (08-02-2017)