data points:

-OEM bike, ~250 fast miles home on interstate & 250 around town, had dealer document transfer of fluid at 500 miles., they refilled it

-1000 miles (easy riding around town) dealer did 1k mile service. (IDK if was low then)
specifically told them to use the Formula tranny fluid

-2000 miles, after a ~250 mile interstate ride. had a remote dealer check the fluid.
they said no transfer, and they were AMAZED that they had not done the 1k service.

he said they use Bel Ray tranny fluid, which a different color than what was in mine, and he said hardly NONE of the bikes they service transfer fluid.

IDK, are most of the bikes transferring fluid using the "Syn 3 in 1" fluid in all three holes?

 

Help me out, does "hardly NONE" mean mostly all? Not sure what you're trying to say here.

I would use the same oil, be it Syn 3 or Formula+ in both, the Tranny AND the Primary until you're 100% positive there "totally NONE" transfer from one to the other. Don't take a chance of mixing things.......

 

That's what I was thinking but I figured I'd best keep my yap shut. LOL!

 

so the Service Manager is saying they use only BelRay in the tranny, and they have very FEW bikes with transfer problems, like one or two, he did not even know the TSB existed.

 

OMG! You are so spot on with this epiphany! I'll make my SM and Regional Tech Guru aware of their mistake first thing Tuesday morning when the shop opens up so they can learn from your knowledge and wisdom! Surely you are much wiser than they!

On a side note, I noticed you've been a member here for almost 11 years and have only been "Thanked" for your input.........ONCE! Wonder why with all your inspiring comments? Hmmmmmm..........

 

I believe the clutches are the same.. You can go to an on line parts place and check.. As far as the clutch switch goes, it's on the lever perch. I would expect the action to be the same tho the perches may be different since one has a master cylinder and the other a mount for the cable. IIRC stonecold made up a parts like somewhere here.

 

This is the list the $tony made.....

Not sure why the link below won't work...... try this.

Parts for Hydraulic to Cable Conversion
Clutch Control
Qnty Part Number Part Description Price Notes
1 11143 Retaining Ring .90 Dealer Part
1 11179 O-Ring .98 Dealer Part
1 38630-88 Clutch Cable Boot 3.70 BT
1 38738-08 Hand Lever Pivot Pin 9.70 BT
1 38900-08 Pin Clutch, Mech., w/head 5.30 BT
1 45080-08 Clutch Lever Assembly 31.00 BT
1 38700-08A Hand Lever Bracket 17.00 BT
1 37200005 Clutch Cable 97.00 BT
Total 168.74

Transmission Bearings and Covers

3 8873 Ball 5.38 Dealer Part
1 10998 Retaining Ring 1.05 Dealer Part
1 34920-86A Coupling 6.06 BT
1 36805-06 Cover Gasket 4.56 BT
1 37116-06 Clutch Release Cover 112.00 BT
1 37200261 Inner Ramp 4.22 BT
1 37200262 Outer Ramp 3.63 BT
Total 136.90

Clutch Actuator

1 7848W Jamnut .44 BT
1 11096 Retaining Ring .52 Dealer Part
1 37069-90A Oil Slinger Assembly 10.00 BT
1 37090-98A Screw Adjuster 4.43 BT
1 37092-06 Push Rod Release 10.00 BT
1 37312-75 Bearing Pushrod 7.22 Dealer Part
2 37313-80 Bearing Thrust Race 6.76 Dealer Part
1 37903-90 Release Plate 13.00 BT
Total 52.37
Sections Total 358.01

 

I think if I were to attempt this I would go with a hand lever bracket and clutch lever assembly from one of the new Softails.

Lever - 45080-08A
Bracket - 36700200

There appears to be some differences in the clutch switch and how it is activated. Although this looks to be as simple as swapping parts, the clutch switch could make this much more difficult than I originally thought.

 

I've converted frm cable to hydraulic before (doing one now actually). On pre Canbus models you have to change the switch or you would get codes and cruise would by work. (You can use a brake light switch) Not sure about the newer bikes with Canbus

 

Why would you want a cable actuated clutch versus a hydraulic actuated clutch?