Originally Posted by stixvrad

Damn... FWIW, if it were me, considering all you've been through if this doens't work, I'd want my $ back. That way I can wait to see if Moco straightens out the few issues on the M8 so you can have confidence in buying back into HD.

Originally Posted by 103Eagle

Yea but that don't help that I sold a perfectly good custom 09 to buy the 17.......can't get the 09 back. Besides I got a really good deal on my 17, doubt I can get that same deal today or tomorrow.......

Think a few other guys have been through more than I have so far......really feel for everyone with sumping or transfer issues.....MotoJockey for one......

Eagle Out

Originally Posted by stixvrad

Damn... FWIW, if it were me, considering all you've been through if this doens't work, I'd want my $ back. That way I can wait to see if Moco straightens out the few issues on the M8 so you can have confidence in buying back into HD.

Originally Posted by SavageChopper

I just got back from a trip to Milwaukee my transmission is still at the full mark after 1400 miles. After a trip to Canada last month I had noticed a loss of 3-4 oz after 1200 miles, but after changing the fluids and adding dye I can't reproduce the issue.

Originally Posted by ocezam

I found this pretty interesting. When checking out wether Baker's gearsets would work in the 2017 and up transmissions, I stumbled across a review on Amazon for Baker's DD7. This guy says his 2013 CVO Road King started fluid migration from the tranny to the primary once he installed Baker's gearset. As I said, interesting:

"ByPaulon November 12, 2015

4.0 out of 5 stars. The transmission it self is great, neutral is always there

I installed a Baker DD7 in a 2013 CVO Road King. The first thing I noticed was the migration of transmission fluid from the transmission to the primary. I spoke several times to Baker on this issue. It took awhile but when another person had the same problem they finally stepped up to the plate. I told them I believed it was do to the fact the CVO has a hydraulic clutch and the push rod assembly was totally different. A single bear rod compared to a three piece adjustable. The big difference is the distance between the push and the hollow bore main shaft. The main shaft bore is 3/8' and the push rod is 5/16'. On the hydraulic clutch the rod is just 5/16', but on the cable clutch it's a 5/16' rod but it has a 3/8' bushing pressed onto it. Apparently the bushing makes all the difference in the world.. They sent me a three piece shaft set up and a Baker hydraulic slave assembly. This took care of the oil transfer but adjusting the rod to their spec's didn't allow the 80 thousand or more shaft movement required to properly disengage the clutch according to Harley which causes rough shifting. You can feel every dog tooth trying to engage right through the shifter lever. The transmission it self is great, neutral is always there. I love the fact you never want for a gear. This experience has made me hesitate to buy the Baker DD7 for my new 2015 Street Glide. I've been trying to find out what Baker is doing to correct this problem especially since a lot more bike are coming out with hydraulic clutches but not getting a response as of yet..."

Originally Posted by Mark@ Baker Drivetrain

We supplied the customer with one of our hydraulic covers and chamfered the mainshaft nut and that resolved the issue.

Originally Posted by $tonecold

I went through the parts lists for the 2016 & 2017 transmissions and the only difference I could find other than the cases is the one right side bearing, the secondary clutch actuator (which you will reuse), and the first gear. I don't see why the DD7 wouldn't fit, but I assure you I would talk to Baker before I ordered it. What they did to make a GrudgeBox specific for the M8 would be something else I would have to ask them. It is just a thought. I don't know that it would change anything.

Originally Posted by $tonecold

I'm not sure what you are seeing here that I'm not. The bearing housing assembly has more than one opening in it, so I don't see how a sealed bearing would help unless you think the bearing is forcing oil into the secondary clutch actuator. It may be that the only cure for this is to seal the main shaft and vent the primary separately. The problem with that is where the vent would be placed as the primary chain is slinging the oil in the primary around the perimeter and would force the primary oil out if the vent isn't in the right place. The oil slinger in the cable clutch models might be the only thing that kept this malady from happening with them.