While I realize I am satan because I am a tuner, the purpose of a dyno tune (recalibration) of the engine management system is NOT to produce a dyno sheet for bragging rights.
It is to recalibrate the fueling AND ignition timing (approx 300-400 tune points per cylinder) for best performance, smoothness, throttle response, fuel mileage, decel back firing, cold start, hot start issues get addressed/corrected as the tune goes on.
One of the most important jobs of a dyno tune is to identify any power robbing issues like...
Sumping! A dyno is one of, if not the best, tool for catching poor scavenge performance from the oil pump that can rob a few hp to as much as 30 hp if real bad.
Another invaluable tool is the clutch slip graph that does a brilliant job of identifying when and where the clutch slips. From that we can evaluate whether it's an adjustment issue or a "too much power" issue.
Identifying cam timing issues from being, as just an example, a "tooth" off one of the gears when reassembled.
Identifying and quantifying injector duty cycle for best reliable long term performance. Too much DC and the injector wears out prematurely.
Identifying when and where the ignition timing can be altered to get rid of the knock-retard found I see in the M8s. This stabilizes the performance based on best power without the need to constantly alter.
My bet is the MOCO sets its timing maps based on the fuel they build the calibration with. That's nowhere near real world IME.
Identifying primary chain issues from the pictures the power graphs produce.
Visually identify rear wheel and tire irregularities which much more often than not.
Along with that most tuners will do minor things like tire pressures, nut and bolt tightening and replacement, etc, etc.
All that said, whatever the power that comes from the diagnostic evaluations and tuning is what you get from the build.
There. I'm off my soapbox now
Bob
Bob,
You seem like a very knowledgeable/professional guy (just like satan!) and if you don't mind, I would like to get your opinion on something. I put a stage 1 on my ultra limited 2018 with the street cannon slips-on and the heavy breather before leaving the dealer, using the street pro tuner.
Three weeks later, closer to the 1k service, I went to the dealer to install the stage 2 tq cam. I went to this dealer because they had a lower hourly rate and because the quoted me for ~4 dyno job on top of the 5.5 hours installation to get every single pony out of my set-up.
I'm attaching the dyno chart to this message. They promised a before and after dyno chart but because of a miscommunication between the front desk and the mechanic, they only delivered the after. 89.72 hp / 106.31 tq doesn't sound like a job that was done thoroughly. I have seen better numbers from similar bikes/configurations that are better in both fronts hp and tq.
Here is mine. The difference being I went with a FM catless head pipe and a PV tuner. I think I lost some torque going with the Rinehart 4.5's. But I love the sound enough, I can live with it.
We have 3 dealerships here. 2 are tuning the bikes with the all SE HD stage 2 upgrades and getting 95 to 102 HP and around 110 TQ. The 3rd dealership just drops a canned map and gets 90 HP and 104 TQ. He doesn't want to do a Dyno tune. Dyno guy even says it will void the warranty if he tunes it. Guess he's lazy! Problem is they are giving me the best deal on the bike and the deal was made with a free Dyno tune. I just want the bike to run as well as it can. Guess I can take it to another HD dealership for the tune!
i had mine dyno on a unit we all know (local) is a tight drum , so we add usually about 10-15% to the numbers, with the cat and standard Dynojet tune came in at 89hp and 103 torque, when i took the cat out came it at 93 hp and 107 torque or close abouts. They had to add some fuel, i would say a decent amount from the SE tune they put in there for sure with standard stage 2 and cat. Moved the torque curve slightly to the right but still within that 3300 to 4500 range so works fine.
We have 3 dealerships here. 2 are tuning the bikes with the all SE HD stage 2 upgrades and getting 95 to 102 HP and around 110 TQ. The 3rd dealership just drops a canned map and gets 90 HP and 104 TQ. He doesn't want to do a Dyno tune. Dyno guy even says it will void the warranty if he tunes it. Guess he's lazy! Problem is they are giving me the best deal on the bike and the deal was made with a free Dyno tune. I just want the bike to run as well as it can. Guess I can take it to another HD dealership for the tune!
The reason why he don't want to dyno tune is that he's honest. Sometimes I think it's better to toss the bike on a dyno, do a pull before it's heat soaked and in a lower gear then show the increase by heat soaking and using a taller gear. The problem is that if the dyno is real stingy, the owner is still disappointed with the results. No dyno run to shrink down, laminate and store in the wallet.
08-01-2018, 09:07 AM
