The pics above are pretty consistent with what I have seen the last two years with my M8. I installed a Stage I air cleaner and from there the problems started. It appeared the there was not sufficient air flow to suck in all the moisture/oil vapor into the intake, so it simply drooled down into the air cleaner which eventually blew back on the right side saddlebag. I understand that the MOCO has come out with longer rubber hoses which are supposed to eliminate the drooling problem but I have not purchased them. Instead I drilled the air cleaner back plate and ran some homemade rubber hoses down from the Stage I breather bolts and exited the air cleaner and run those to the bottom of the frame. No problems. You really should not have to do this on a new vehicle if the manufacture does the right thing and takes care of their shortcomings.

 

This was in a small prescription bottle I used for my breather bypass. Probably about 3k miles.

 

It would be more meaningful if you gave us some perspective of what that amount really is, you've got the pic blown up large enough it looks like half a bowl of ice cream.

 

Is that the bottle itself or the contents? Looks like bad mayonnaise .

 

When I replaced my stock filter the bottom was soaked with oil. I installed a K&N 1717 in it's place. I twisted the tube, that goes into the filter, a quarter turn towards the rear. I picked up a length of wiper cleaning tubing and a plastic 7/32 butt splice. I then connected the tubing and drilled a hole through the bottom of the backing plate. The tubing is run down to the frame and zip tied to the frame. The hole is snug and the zip tie keeps it from touching the exhaust pipe. I installed a rubber plug in the back of the new filter where the tubing is supposed to go.

 

the one thing that has bothered me, and may be completely unfounded, is the positioning of breather tubes expecting the oily residue to work its way uphill..just seems like if they point downward upon exiting the breathers it would be more efficient and effective in evacuating the mess away from the breathers...but like I said, maybe in real world application it doesn't matter much?

 

I just did a By-Pass to my CVO Ventilator AC,,, used a DK Customs Catch Can,,, There is definitely pressure pumping thru the tubes... you can feel the air pulsate out of the holes in the top of the catch can...
But I did run my lines downward to make sure the muck passes to the Catch Can...

 

I still get lots o gunk in my catch can and my breather tube makes it way upward out the back of the air cleaner backing plate.

 

thanks, just wasn't sure of how much pressure I guess..the thought of upon shutdown and sitting for awhile having leftover goo work its way back down and gum things up ..sounds like perhaps that concern is unfounded tho

 

You are absolutely correct regarding a basic premise of physics in that it is not wise to expect that oily, warm & moist combination of petroleum and H2O to run uphill through a small diameter rubber hose without plugging up and restricting flow. Experience has taught me that for an M8 external breather system to function properly the line that carries the oil and moisture mixture MUST run downhill. It is very important where you drill the hole in breather back plate in order to get the sufficient drop necessary to keep the flow going through the hose. There is a small amount of air that flows through the hose once you are plugged into the breather bolts. Once the engine is at a normal operating temperature this flow of warm air definitely help move along the oily, watery sludge being discharged down the hose. On my first attempt I used a small K&N filter which I attached just below my Stage II air cleaner. It looked good but in reality after about 1000 miles the filter was full of snot and would start to blow "puke" along the right side of my engine which totally defeated what I was trying to do. Ultimately I removed the filter and just used the rubber hose to vent to the ground below the frame rail. That setup continues to work flawlessly. One other thing to be aware of here is that during the colder winter months your engine will generate a lot more of this sludge than in the hotter times of the year. I rode home a few days ago (50 miles) when the outside temp was 55 degrees. I ride 75 mph on the interstate so the engine was as hot as it was going to get. I checked the crankcase oil temp when I parked it and it only registered 196 degrees. In comparison, on a 95 degree day in the summertime the crankcase oil temp would normally be 225 degrees. So there is quite a bit of difference between winter and summer engine temperatures.