M8 problems
#751
07-20-2017, 09:00 PM
Advanced
#752
07-20-2017, 10:41 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#753
07-21-2017, 05:30 AM
Stellar HDF Member
#754
07-21-2017, 08:32 AM
A suggestion for M8 riders: ECM's have to read the sensors in the system. If you throw the ignition switch to on and hit the starter you can create issues.
Please, when turning on ignition switch wait 3-4 seconds before engaging starter. This allows correct fuel pressure and ECM to read all sensors and temp.
As far as warped rotors, they don't warp themselves and have never been a warranty repair. As far as the other list of repairs, it's sad.
Please, when turning on ignition switch wait 3-4 seconds before engaging starter. This allows correct fuel pressure and ECM to read all sensors and temp.
As far as warped rotors, they don't warp themselves and have never been a warranty repair. As far as the other list of repairs, it's sad.
#755
07-21-2017, 08:52 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
A suggestion for M8 riders: ECM's have to read the sensors in the system. If you throw the ignition switch to on and hit the starter you can create issues.
Please, when turning on ignition switch wait 3-4 seconds before engaging starter. This allows correct fuel pressure and ECM to read all sensors and temp.
As far as warped rotors, they don't warp themselves and have never been a warranty repair. As far as the other list of repairs, it's sad.
Please, when turning on ignition switch wait 3-4 seconds before engaging starter. This allows correct fuel pressure and ECM to read all sensors and temp.
As far as warped rotors, they don't warp themselves and have never been a warranty repair. As far as the other list of repairs, it's sad.
You don't have to wait.. Rotors can easily be off if not ground flat to start or tweaked when screwing them hubs...
#756
07-21-2017, 10:28 AM
Cruiser
A suggestion for M8 riders: ECM's have to read the sensors in the system. If you throw the ignition switch to on and hit the starter you can create issues.
Please, when turning on ignition switch wait 3-4 seconds before engaging starter. This allows correct fuel pressure and ECM to read all sensors and temp.
As far as warped rotors, they don't warp themselves and have never been a warranty repair. As far as the other list of repairs, it's sad.
Please, when turning on ignition switch wait 3-4 seconds before engaging starter. This allows correct fuel pressure and ECM to read all sensors and temp.
As far as warped rotors, they don't warp themselves and have never been a warranty repair. As far as the other list of repairs, it's sad.
l've been following this post because a 2018 is in my future in early 2018.
#757
07-21-2017, 10:50 AM
Stellar HDF Member
A suggestion for M8 riders: ECM's have to read the sensors in the system. If you throw the ignition switch to on and hit the starter you can create issues.
Please, when turning on ignition switch wait 3-4 seconds before engaging starter. This allows correct fuel pressure and ECM to read all sensors and temp.
As far as warped rotors, they don't warp themselves and have never been a warranty repair. As far as the other list of repairs, it's sad.
Please, when turning on ignition switch wait 3-4 seconds before engaging starter. This allows correct fuel pressure and ECM to read all sensors and temp.
As far as warped rotors, they don't warp themselves and have never been a warranty repair. As far as the other list of repairs, it's sad.
Shortly after the first EFI cop bikes were delivered the MOCO put out a service bulletin stating there was no need to wait. I know this because I was a HD service mgr in 1999-up when the Delphi system was announced.
The pulsing braked were noticed from the very first ride coming to a gentle stop on my break-in trip to Oregon from the Bay Area. I ASSUMED they would simply replace them under new bike warranty at my first service.
At my first service they determined the rotors were within spec...by .001" and I must have abused the brakes to generate hot spots on the rotor. Hot spots are generally developed from differing thickness of the rotor. Something might have caused the warpage when bolted to the hub due to something between the rotor and the hub, or simply not ground true when finished.
The dealer principal (owner) rode the bike and told me he felt the pulsing then explained the factory has tolerances and mine was .001 UNDER the max variance. Hell the tech could have bumped the rotor and it would have met the requirement but obviously the dealer didn't want to help me to get the rotors covered. $170 plus labor to get my brakes proper.
Really disappointed in my delivering dealer's failure to take care of the issue.
Bob
BTW, called the customer service dude at the MOCO and was told they relied on the dealer to determine if the rotors were within spec, and if so, there was nothing they could do.
The dealer told me I was on my own with the factory as they didn't have as much poop as I with the factory and their warranty.
All I can say is things have definitely changed since I worked for them. All it took was a call to the MOCO and explained I (or a qualified tech) rode the bike and it pulsed. Job covered.
Last edited by FLTRI17; 07-21-2017 at 11:02 AM.
#758
07-21-2017, 12:05 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
Can you just imagine a motor cop sitting behind a road sign, then a speeder zooms by. Now the cop has to turn the ignition on and wait?
Shortly after the first EFI cop bikes were delivered the MOCO put out a service bulletin stating there was no need to wait. I know this because I was a HD service mgr in 1999-up when the Delphi system was announced.
The pulsing braked were noticed from the very first ride coming to a gentle stop on my break-in trip to Oregon from the Bay Area. I ASSUMED they would simply replace them under new bike warranty at my first service.
At my first service they determined the rotors were within spec...by .001" and I must have abused the brakes to generate hot spots on the rotor. Hot spots are generally developed from differing thickness of the rotor. Something might have caused the warpage when bolted to the hub due to something between the rotor and the hub, or simply not ground true when finished.
The dealer principal (owner) rode the bike and told me he felt the pulsing then explained the factory has tolerances and mine was .001 UNDER the max variance. Hell the tech could have bumped the rotor and it would have met the requirement but obviously the dealer didn't want to help me to get the rotors covered. $170 plus labor to get my brakes proper.
Really disappointed in my delivering dealer's failure to take care of the issue.
Bob
BTW, called the customer service dude at the MOCO and was told they relied on the dealer to determine if the rotors were within spec, and if so, there was nothing they could do.
The dealer told me I was on my own with the factory as they didn't have as much poop as I with the factory and their warranty.
All I can say is things have definitely changed since I worked for them. All it took was a call to the MOCO and explained I (or a qualified tech) rode the bike and it pulsed. Job covered.
Shortly after the first EFI cop bikes were delivered the MOCO put out a service bulletin stating there was no need to wait. I know this because I was a HD service mgr in 1999-up when the Delphi system was announced.
The pulsing braked were noticed from the very first ride coming to a gentle stop on my break-in trip to Oregon from the Bay Area. I ASSUMED they would simply replace them under new bike warranty at my first service.
At my first service they determined the rotors were within spec...by .001" and I must have abused the brakes to generate hot spots on the rotor. Hot spots are generally developed from differing thickness of the rotor. Something might have caused the warpage when bolted to the hub due to something between the rotor and the hub, or simply not ground true when finished.
The dealer principal (owner) rode the bike and told me he felt the pulsing then explained the factory has tolerances and mine was .001 UNDER the max variance. Hell the tech could have bumped the rotor and it would have met the requirement but obviously the dealer didn't want to help me to get the rotors covered. $170 plus labor to get my brakes proper.
Really disappointed in my delivering dealer's failure to take care of the issue.
Bob
BTW, called the customer service dude at the MOCO and was told they relied on the dealer to determine if the rotors were within spec, and if so, there was nothing they could do.
The dealer told me I was on my own with the factory as they didn't have as much poop as I with the factory and their warranty.
All I can say is things have definitely changed since I worked for them. All it took was a call to the MOCO and explained I (or a qualified tech) rode the bike and it pulsed. Job covered.
#759
07-21-2017, 06:31 PM
From what I'm reading, the MOCO will replace warped rotors for 2 years and unlimited miles? This is a question. The warped rotors and who caused it has been an ongoing issue for years between the MOCO, the dealer and the customer. Many dealers will bite the bullet and replace them at least one time under their policy guidelines for customer satisfaction. I know mine would on a new bike purchased from him.
l am a lurker more than poster, but an FYI, the rotors have been replaced twice with the ESP by CNA. Once at about 40,000 mi and just recently at approximately 101,000 miles. Can't speak on the 2 year manufacturer warranty.
l've been following this post because a 2018 is in my future in early 2018.
l've been following this post because a 2018 is in my future in early 2018.
l am a lurker more than poster, but an FYI, the rotors have been replaced twice with the ESP by CNA. Once at about 40,000 mi and just recently at approximately 101,000 miles. Can't speak on the 2 year manufacturer warranty.
l've been following this post because a 2018 is in my future in early 2018.
l've been following this post because a 2018 is in my future in early 2018.
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; 07-23-2017 at 12:45 AM.
#760
07-22-2017, 06:04 AM
Well, my morning started out interesting... was leaving for work, went to start my SGS, turned the ignition and nothing happened... Looked at the ODO display and it said somehting like "ENTER PIN". I had my fob in my backpack which was inside my saddle bag, so I grabbed it thinking it was out of range or something. Held it in my hand, tried again, same thing.
Figured it was just the battery so I ran inside and changed the battery of the fob, came back out, and the bike started. Damn oil light on AGAIN. Pulled out of the driveway, got to the corner and the oil light went out (usually goes out once I get going).
Driving down the road about a mile and the bike just cuts out on me. Check engine light comes on, oil light comes on, no power, engine dead. Luckily I was in front of a school so I coasted in, tried to put the bike in second gear to start it back up while i was coasting, but no-go. Pushed this 1000 lb beast up a small hill, put it on its kickstand and rooted around in my vest to find my phone to call the dealership, while trying to restart the bike. It wouldn't even turn over. Tried about 3 or 4 times.
As I was looking for the dealership number and trying to cool off, I noticed the hazard lights were on for whatever reason and my phone was still connected via bluetooth, even though the bike was turned off. Not sure what that means. Sat there for a minute and then decided to try to start the bike again. It started and I drove it back to my house and parked it. Called the dealership and they are sending someone over to pick it up sometime today.
Pretty bummed.
Of note: About 75% of the time that I start the bike up after it has been sitting for the day, the check oil light comes on and the info screen says "check oil". It eventually goes away once I get down the road, but the times vary. It always goes off though. Never had the bike die on me like this morning.
Anyone know what it could be? Stuck valve? Bad oil pump? Driver error?
EDIT: Bike has less than 800 miles. Already had the tranny rebuilt ~200.
Figured it was just the battery so I ran inside and changed the battery of the fob, came back out, and the bike started. Damn oil light on AGAIN. Pulled out of the driveway, got to the corner and the oil light went out (usually goes out once I get going).
Driving down the road about a mile and the bike just cuts out on me. Check engine light comes on, oil light comes on, no power, engine dead. Luckily I was in front of a school so I coasted in, tried to put the bike in second gear to start it back up while i was coasting, but no-go. Pushed this 1000 lb beast up a small hill, put it on its kickstand and rooted around in my vest to find my phone to call the dealership, while trying to restart the bike. It wouldn't even turn over. Tried about 3 or 4 times.
As I was looking for the dealership number and trying to cool off, I noticed the hazard lights were on for whatever reason and my phone was still connected via bluetooth, even though the bike was turned off. Not sure what that means. Sat there for a minute and then decided to try to start the bike again. It started and I drove it back to my house and parked it. Called the dealership and they are sending someone over to pick it up sometime today.
Pretty bummed.
Of note: About 75% of the time that I start the bike up after it has been sitting for the day, the check oil light comes on and the info screen says "check oil". It eventually goes away once I get down the road, but the times vary. It always goes off though. Never had the bike die on me like this morning.
Anyone know what it could be? Stuck valve? Bad oil pump? Driver error?
EDIT: Bike has less than 800 miles. Already had the tranny rebuilt ~200.
Thanks for reading and ride safe.