Show Your Ironhead Sportster
#42
On the cam cover, on the bottom edge, there is a small weld done at the factory as part of the manufacturing process. It is sealing an oil passage thru the cover. Do not cut it! It is about where the bend is in the brake rod.
BTW, if that bend is someone's home made job it may not hold up to hard braking. A straight rod is much better.
Looks like a good project. My first IronHead was a 1980. Fun times ahead!
BTW, if that bend is someone's home made job it may not hold up to hard braking. A straight rod is much better.
Looks like a good project. My first IronHead was a 1980. Fun times ahead!
#44
i love these bikes
i need to get mine back on the road
i need to rebuild the front brakes and i few other misc. things
might put my 80 back on the lift today
it has been too long since i rode it and the last time i did i had to push it a few blocks to the house
it like, it runs fine, but then when it gets hot it dies and wont start till it cools off
i need to get mine back on the road
i need to rebuild the front brakes and i few other misc. things
might put my 80 back on the lift today
it has been too long since i rode it and the last time i did i had to push it a few blocks to the house
it like, it runs fine, but then when it gets hot it dies and wont start till it cools off
#45
What i do is always keep a spare good coil in the shop because replacing with a known good unit is the best and easiest test. Spares of coil, regulator, generator, solenoid, and even a spare battery, are like the most important tools you can have in the shop, especially if you want to be able to ride Sunday mornings when the shops are all closed.
Also consider a worn ignition key switch [or a worn key?]. I have had to replace the key switch on both my IronHeads. They would typically stall when i stopped at an intersection. This happens eventually, especially if you have too much stuff on your key chain.
#46
That is a typical symptom of a failing ignition coil. I had this happen one time, it stalled when i stopped at an intersection. Fortunately i was about 5 minutes from my indie shop, and from there 10 minutes from home. You can do continuity tests from the manual but unless you do it while it is hot they will show that it is good. You can do them on the roadside, or try using a heat gun or hair dryer.
What i do is always keep a spare good coil in the shop because replacing with a known good unit is the best and easiest test. Spares of coil, regulator, generator, solenoid, and even a spare battery, are like the most important tools you can have in the shop, especially if you want to be able to ride Sunday mornings when the shops are all closed.
Also consider a worn ignition key switch [or a worn key?]. I have had to replace the key switch on both my IronHeads. They would typically stall when i stopped at an intersection. This happens eventually, especially if you have too much stuff on your key chain.
What i do is always keep a spare good coil in the shop because replacing with a known good unit is the best and easiest test. Spares of coil, regulator, generator, solenoid, and even a spare battery, are like the most important tools you can have in the shop, especially if you want to be able to ride Sunday mornings when the shops are all closed.
Also consider a worn ignition key switch [or a worn key?]. I have had to replace the key switch on both my IronHeads. They would typically stall when i stopped at an intersection. This happens eventually, especially if you have too much stuff on your key chain.
great advise
the coil on my bike in old
also i put new points, wieghts advance plate on about 2 years ago, i did not change out the coil at that time and it was old then
when i look in my hd factory service manual it says my 80 should have elctronic ignition, so im not sure what it going on with that
i have considered buying a whole new electronic ignition set up but thaey are out of my price range
#47
Starting with 1979 HD put early electronic ignitions in these bikes. They proved unreliable for many owners who replaced them with points. My 1980 had points when i got it and i quickly replaced with electronic.
Check out the Ultima electronic ignition. You can get the complete setup for about $160. This is absolutely complete - module, coil, wires, electrical connectors, etc. All you need is a screwdriver. "Everybody" [as teenagers like to say] is using this one ...
http://www.ultimaproducts.com/programmableignition.html
http://www.ultimaproducts.com/53-644_Ignition.pdf
This one says shovelhead but it is for ironhead also ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultima-Progr...lV-Za1&vxp=mtr
There are more. Do not buy just the module. Some sellers are selling it for about $120 and you still need the single fire coil and other stuff. The kit is a much better deal.
Check out the Ultima electronic ignition. You can get the complete setup for about $160. This is absolutely complete - module, coil, wires, electrical connectors, etc. All you need is a screwdriver. "Everybody" [as teenagers like to say] is using this one ...
http://www.ultimaproducts.com/programmableignition.html
http://www.ultimaproducts.com/53-644_Ignition.pdf
This one says shovelhead but it is for ironhead also ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultima-Progr...lV-Za1&vxp=mtr
There are more. Do not buy just the module. Some sellers are selling it for about $120 and you still need the single fire coil and other stuff. The kit is a much better deal.