I purchased this 1975 XL1000 (according to the vin) a couple months ago. It was built from a basket case by the guy I bought it from many years ago, then stored for about 20 years. It has been bored .060, andrews cams, and a S&S Super B. I have had it going after changing out the oil and general check over. Still having some minor issues but working them out. Thinking of swapping the carb, but also have no real issue with the B. Pretty sure it needs to be torn down and cleaned. The bike sat with no gas, but had oil and was kept free. I am waiting for a new petcock/strainer because the old screen plugged up pretty much after running a tank of fuel through it. That is why I am sure carb needs to be cleaned. Going to make some changes to this bike to make it mine, but it wasn't bad for $1500. Anyone know of a decent shifter available for these bikes? Mine actually broke, but I don't like that long thing anyway.
One thing to keep in mind, boring an IronHead engine does not provide more power, it actually reduces the useful life of the engine. Overboring is only done when the engine is worn out. .060 is the maximum overbore for these engines - there are no .070 pistons.
Pics of the 75 XLCH. 4" over forks by franks, rear shocks shotened 1.5". needed to make a chain guard to keep chain from eating bootom of oil tank when it bottomed out with the girlfriend (now wife) on the back. 3.5 gall fatbobs, wide glide fender redrilled to fit. Mustang seat from a FX that I redid to fit and give me more lower back support. Enfgine and Trans all rebuilt with all new wiring, kicck start only. Loved that bike.
I purchased this 1975 XL1000 (according to the vin) a couple months ago. It was built from a basket case by the guy I bought it from many years ago, then stored for about 20 years. It has been bored .060, andrews cams, and a S&S Super B. I have had it going after changing out the oil and general check over. Still having some minor issues but working them out. Thinking of swapping the carb, but also have no real issue with the B. Pretty sure it needs to be torn down and cleaned. The bike sat with no gas, but had oil and was kept free. I am waiting for a new petcock/strainer because the old screen plugged up pretty much after running a tank of fuel through it. That is why I am sure carb needs to be cleaned. Going to make some changes to this bike to make it mine, but it wasn't bad for $1500. Anyone know of a decent shifter available for these bikes? Mine actually broke, but I don't like that long thing anyway.
I have the same bike. Never had an issue with the shifter. I would recommend buying back a stock one. If you want, you can swap it back over to right shift. The output shaft is on the right for 75s. By the way, there is a grease fitting under the frame for a bushing that holds the shifter shaft in place.
I should’ve done some research before I bought this bike but I pretty much stole it from the guy so I couldn’t say no it’s the same year I was born in 1980 XLH. I noticed in everyone’s pictures not very many forward controls the two companies that make them every buddy that sells them says they’re out of stock till at least May even finding a brake pedal and plunger seems to be difficult. The last bike I owned was a 98FXST and the only thing stock on it was the frame and the motor everything else had been taken off there was a 180 swingarm conversion the struts were molded in new front end bars risers exhaust intake custom seat paint job everything that could be chrome was but I bought it like that didn’t have to do a thing to it this bike well it’s a little different than my last one I don’t even know where to start
Start with buying a Factory Service Manual 99484-85 and a Factory Parts Catalog 99451-85A. You can find parts only using the part numbers from the catalog. You will want to spend much time reading each of these.
You can order these manuals at any Harley Davidson dealership or find them on eBay or various motorcycle parts web sites. Search for the part number.
Here are two after market service manuals...
Clymer, ISBN 0-89287-126-1
Haynes, ISBN 1-56392-534-6
The Clymer offers alternative explanations for some things. The Haynes has the best pictures of parts etc.
Please ignore any negative comments others may make about these after market manuals. They contain no more errors than do the factory manuals. It is useful to have these.
BTW, never go into any HD Dealership looking for parts unless you have the actual part number from the parts catalog. Some dealerships will be very friendly, others will say they cannot help with such an old bike.