Mornin' all,
Alright, I got to thinkin' last night. I took my '74 in to a pro wrench to get the timing issue fixed (ended up going electronic instead of points) and shortly after my clutch started acting up.
When the bike is off, the clutch won't do chit. Have to dry shift to neutral to move it. However, when the bike is running the clutch works fine. Talked to my wrench, described the situation,and he goes "oh yeah, your clutch basket is shot" right off the bat. Priced out the part...it's over $200 just for the part, not even counting labor.
My question is this: if he "adjusted" my clutch cable could it cause this problem? I smell somethin' kindo fishy and just want to make sure he's not tryin' to soak me.
If the part could actually be bad, I'llorder it along w/ my other stuff I need for my winter teardown and do it myself at that point.

Wolf, see...told ya it was a stupid question<g>
(I really need to get my hands on a service manual)

 

Hey Wolf....
I'd say you read that guy pretty quick! Yeah, you could have some clutch damage but it has to be opened up and looked at before anybody can make such a statement.
Here is the thing with a clutch:
1) Do I understand you correctly as saying: you cannot roll the bike when you have the clutch lever pulled in and the bike is in gear.....with the engine off?

2) If the above answer is yes, then when you crank up the engine and put it in gear.....does it take off down the driveway with the clutch lever fully in?

3) If the answer to #2 is no, then I have to ask what you mean by the clutch started acting up after the mechanic adjusted the cable? If this guy had loosened the cable adjustment then the bike's clutch would drag because it is not fully dis-engaged when the lever is pulled fully in. The result will be a harsh clunk when you put it in low gear and a tendency to want to creep ahead on you when you have the clutch fully pulled in.

You should have no more than 1/8 inch free play at the lever. I'm talking about the clutch cable here. If you have more than than, go to where the clutch cable enters the primary case. This is the adjuster for the cable. Loosen the lock nut and back out the adjuster until there is 1/8 inch play up at the clutch lever. Tighten down the lock nut.
There, any better? By better I mean does it feel like before you took it to that shop?
Forking over money to this guy for a clutch job I do not recommend. If the bike runs well and pulls through the gears and the clutch does not slip....then you ain't got no clutch basket problem, believe me.
Let me know if I can give any help........pg

 

LoL see, this is why I ask you first Blake<g>
Pretty much described it to a tee. Bike is off: no rolling while in gear w/clutch in. Bike running: get a hefty clunk whil putting it in gear, doesn't seem to want to creep ahead on me...that I've noticed to any degree anyways.
Yeah, I didn't ask him to adjust my clutch, I just thought mebbe he may have done that, with the oddity of the timing of the issue cropping up. Take it in for some work, get it home and blam..new problem that's gonna cost a lot more than the other work did. We have a name for mechanics like that around here...

Thanks again pg, I'm gonna have to check the lever play,

Wolf

 

Sam...
If you put it in gear and pull in the clutch with the engine off and the bike will not roll......that indicates that the clutch is really dragging.
First thing to check is the clutch cable play as we discussed eariler.
Most Sportsters really clunk hard when you drop them into first gear. Mine does. The fact that it does not want to creep ahead indicates that the clutch is not dragging.
If you had warm weather (if that even happens in Wiscionsin) and then got a sudden change to cold, this could affect the clutch as you describe. The reason is because the clutch is covered with oil and with colder weather the oil gets thick. This affects the clutch because it causes drag. The bike should act normal otherwise and riding it should not be a problem.

Strange coincidense of the problem occurring right after you got it back from the shop. So you have to suspect them first. Next thing is to open up the clutch and take a look to see if there is a problem if you care to do that.

Bottom line.....if it were me and the bike runs well and shifts well through the gears, I would do nothing. As a practical matter, I never try to roll my Sportster around while it is in gear because the clutch on my machine drags so much that it's a lot easier to find neutral and then roll it. When I pull in from a ride I always put it in neutral before shutting it off. It's still in neutral when I ride the next time, and so it rolls easily. Until you mentioned this moving it in gear I had never considered or thought about the way a clutch can drag.
Need any help, as usual just let me know.............pg

 

I agree this....
I have used 20W-50 motoroil in primary ( on my -74) and in cold weather 10W-40 same as in engine.
Even below freezing isn't problem, if there isn't snow or ice prevent riding.
Now with my -78 I use sportster transfluid, because it hasn't transfervalve between crankcase and transmisson as you have.
Yep same procedure

-sepixlh-