Well I guess it's possible but I dont have any dings like that on my cams. Also when I pulled the cams there were only the shims that bridges the gap from cam to cam and no extras. I was able to pull all the cam bearings today and I have replacements coming. I also re built the oil pump and I hope this will be the solution.

 

Major update:
Installed the cam bearings and got the oil pump functioning properly, also got the bike running down the road. However still didn't have the crank case vented through a quality valve. I ended up destroying several ball and spring PCV valves before I decided to just let it breath with no valve. The bike ran ok for a while until the rear cylinder lost ALL compression. I tore the old girl down and I found the rings destroied and about an inch of the first and second land gone.
I honed the jugs measured them and found that they were still in spec but just barely. So with a new pair of stock pistons (9:1) and rings she is back together.
I decided the cause of the piston destruction was because I was running extremely lean. Not to mention I was riding about 30 miles from home on a hot say in Texas. It was about 100f that day.
Now after properly jettin the S&S super E to the best of my ability I'm running a .0295 intermediate and a .066 main. And she hasn't missed a beat, no coughing in the carb and the spark plugs are a good color.

Now that I have fresh rings, new postons and a hone job what should I do for break in? So far I have driven her to work and back 4 days only 3 miles each way, city driving and keeping the rpm low. So far I changed the oil every other day of riding. Checked compression today after she was hot. 130 rear and 120 front.

Any other tips? How long should I take it easy? I have here'd everything from heat cycling at 30 second intervals adding 30 more seconds each run till reaching 5 minutes and allowing the engine to completely cool between intervals. Also heared to just ride her doing about 10 strong roll ups going through each gear to about 55-60mph. And I've also hered people say to just ride the **** out of it to really set the rings. So I opted for riding gently for about 500 to 1k miles keeping the rpm's low.

Am I doing the right thing? All advice is welcome.

Thanks!

 

I think it is too late for the heat cycling. That would be done in the shop before taking it out for the first ride. No matter, it is controversial if it is needed or not. But see what others may say about this.

The guys who say to ride it hard "and really set the rings" are very very wrong. That technique will wreck things quickly.

When you do the compression test make sure that not only is the engine at full operating temperature, but also that you hold the throttle wide open while cranking the engine; and also if the carb has one that the choke plate is open [choke **** pushed in]. I think your compression should be higher, 140 minimum. Mine is 150/150 following last years re-build. On a new top end it can be as high as 160 or even 180.

I would not limit my riding to in-the-city. Ride out-of-town on quiet back roads following the recommendations here.

Avoid any sustained highway riding for the first 1,000 miles. Keep revs under 3000 -3500 for first 500 miles, do some roll-ons to help seat the rings without hitting hi revs, i.e. 3rd gear open throttle bursts from 2,500 RPM or so up to 3-3.5K.

Make sure your ignition timing is right on factory specs. It is always better to have your carburetor a little richer than normal because that keeps the motor cooler. The first 100 miles is critical. After 100 miles, change the oil, tighten all the bolts and readjust your pushrods.

Do not let your motor idle for a long time, it will overheat and score the pistons. Ride no faster than 55 mph or 3500 rpm’s for the first 500 miles.

From S&S ...

On initial engine startup, don't just sit and idle the motor while you admire your work or tinker with minor adjustments. Heat buildup at this point can be excessive.

The first 50 miles are the most critical for new rings and piston break-in ... keep the heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. And vary the speed.

The next 500 miles should be spent running the engine no faster than 3500 rpm or about 50-55 mph. Do not lug the engine and continue to vary the speed.

Up to 1000 miles, the speed can be run up to 60 to 70. Continue to run the engine at different speeds including the lower 4~5 mph ranges. ...

From 1000 to 2000 miles basically use the same procedures as before, but you can be a little more liberal with the rpm range. Avoid overheating the engine and putting any hard strain on it (drag racing, trailer towing, sidecar operation).

2000 miles and up, have fun! ...

 

Sounds good! Thanks for the agvice. I have a question though. What is considered sustained highway riding?

 

one constant speed like you had cruise control,varie speed and even go as far as to shut the throttle all the way to help spread oil periodically

 

Mick is right on the money. break in is very important to long life. racing is a different story. run it hard, rebuild it, run it hard i had a CR480 3hrs piston and rings, 30min sparks plugs, rear tire 2 months, would not crank on 1 day old gas (gas oil mix) I tell you what that was the most powerful and funnest bike i ever had about $500 a weekend to ride though