Ironhead starter issue
#1
Ironhead starter issue
hey guys bike is running good but when ran it for a while turned off and tried to restart clicking from starter relay switched relay with spare had around still clicking. it is a 1971 sportster how do i find out what is bad starter,solenoid etc. thank god for kickstarts lol
#3
The starter circuit contains the start button, start relay, start solenoid, bendix assembly, and starter motor. What i do is bypass them one at a time to isolate the problem. To assist this process i cut the wire from the start button to the relay where it passes under the seat and installed a bullet connector.
1. undo bullet connector; run jumper from batt+ to other half of connector. If it starts the problem is the button, or is the wire between the button and the connector.
2. run jumper from batt+ to the small terminal [not one of the two posts] on the solenoid. If it starts the problem is with the relay, or the wire from the relay to the solenoid.
3. run jumper from batt+ to the post on the start motor; engine will not start because the bendix assembly is out of the loop, but the starter motor should turn [make a whirrring noise]
4. i think this leaves the problem with the bendix assembly. Best if someone else explains how this works and how to test it.
1. undo bullet connector; run jumper from batt+ to other half of connector. If it starts the problem is the button, or is the wire between the button and the connector.
2. run jumper from batt+ to the small terminal [not one of the two posts] on the solenoid. If it starts the problem is with the relay, or the wire from the relay to the solenoid.
3. run jumper from batt+ to the post on the start motor; engine will not start because the bendix assembly is out of the loop, but the starter motor should turn [make a whirrring noise]
4. i think this leaves the problem with the bendix assembly. Best if someone else explains how this works and how to test it.
#4
starter solenoid issue
Hey Mick did the what i call voltage check thru the starter relay to solenoid and all was good, then checked for power going from solenoid to starter nothing. but the funny thing is when bike cools down or try next day start's no problem go figure just won't work after 30 mile ride when hot. we are figuring solenoid is bad what kind of a project is it do I need to remove primary cover or can it be done outside replacing exhaust anyway will be easier to get to. Thanks Kevin
#5
You do not have to remove the primary cover to uninstall the solenoid or the starter motor. It is for 1981-on that the p cover must be removed.
You can buy a rebuild kit for the solenoid. But first i would uninstall it, dismantle/clean/inspect; then re-install and test.
It will be filthy inside. Clean it up with spray can electrical contacts cleaner. There is a large copper [steel on newer, low quality sol's] washer that makes contact with two copper lugs. The copper lugs may be worn and so might the washer. If the copper lugs are worn you can simply re-orient them so that the unworn side gets used.
Putting it back together is tedious. There are some rectangular parts that must fit precisely into rectangular holes, and the assembly is spring loaded; and you have to ensure that wires are clear. Must take your time and have great patience.
I use silicon lube to lubricate the moving parts. Perhaps a toothbrush to clean up the rust and crud.
You can buy a rebuild kit for the solenoid. But first i would uninstall it, dismantle/clean/inspect; then re-install and test.
It will be filthy inside. Clean it up with spray can electrical contacts cleaner. There is a large copper [steel on newer, low quality sol's] washer that makes contact with two copper lugs. The copper lugs may be worn and so might the washer. If the copper lugs are worn you can simply re-orient them so that the unworn side gets used.
Putting it back together is tedious. There are some rectangular parts that must fit precisely into rectangular holes, and the assembly is spring loaded; and you have to ensure that wires are clear. Must take your time and have great patience.
I use silicon lube to lubricate the moving parts. Perhaps a toothbrush to clean up the rust and crud.
#6
starter issue's
Thanks Mick you are a wealth of knowledge thanks for the help. just one more question would like to put a set of ape on bike just 12" can I switch the controls over to the 1972-3 style controls. I figure the wiring is same just different switches and just switch the trottle cable to the external kind which is fine with me. That deadman trottle is some getting used to alot different than my soft tail. Is clutch cable the same on the 71 and 73 years. Thanks again Kevin
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