Bert posted that it would be down for between 4 and 48 hours to backup and replace a server hard drive. He suggests using this FaceBook page in the meantime ...

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=115947028438237

Mick

 

Thanks Mick.
I thought it might be a server issue.
pg

 

ya thanks again, Mick.

 

Krazyshark,
Best thing to do with with kill switch is pull the wires and solder them together.
You dont need a kill switch. They were only fitted to meet federal law. And they are a common source of trouble.

With the battery, it should hold at about 12.6 volts or above for a few hours after charging, after letting it sit for a few hours to settle first. If it does not, the battery is toast.

With the battery in the bike and the engine running above about 2500 rpm, you should measure 13 volts to 14 volts or so across the battery terminals.
If it is measuring less than about 13 volts, your charging system is not charging the battery, which might have led to your original shutdown.

 

Thanks hopper, I will check that out, I didn't check the voltage with the engine revving. I will probably just replace the kill switch for the piece of mind in case my throttle cable snaps, its $7 from J&P.

 

you could get a much better quality switch from canadian tire or any auto parts store for less...then just tuck it under your seat (not literally...I mean behind your leg or anywhere that you like that you can easily reach) that will give you much more piece of mind than a J&P switch.

I have melted lots of wire due to faulty J&P switches.

 

Finally got outside to check out the sportster, after sitting all of this time (2 weeks) the battery still read 12v, turned key on and started it up. Kill switch gave me no issues today (got a new one from my Indie but not on yet, waiting to borrow a cordless soldering gun to install). While starting the battery dipped momentarily to 9v, and got back to 12v on the fast idle. Raised RPM to 2000, 2500, 3000 and no change in the 12v reading from idle.

I went for a quick ride, came back battery is still at 12v. I am guessing the battery is draining slowly due to never getting more than 12v to recharge it?

 

It sounds like you may have a generator that is not producing.
It could also be a voltage regulator problem.

What you want to do first of all is check the generator output.
You do this as follows, and using this type of ampmeter........



And here are the instructions on how you check the generator output using the ampmeter.......



And finally, so we cover all bases, here are the instructions for flashing the field.
This step must be done AFTER all of the wires have been re-connected and BEFORE you start the engine......



pg

 

Finally got to do some testing today. I went outside, tested the generator light circuit for grounding, and polarized the generator. Tested output, still not rising above 12.06v. Hooked up generator for amp output test, would not rise above 7.6a.

From here I assume the generator will need to be removed to at least first check the brushes, I believe they are original from 78. Is this something I can do in a parking lot, or should I plan on taking stuff indoors and setting up a cleaning / inspection area?

 

If the generator is not putting out at least 10 amps then you have problems with the generator.
It is time to remove the generator and take it apart for inspection and more testing.
You do this inside, not out in a parking lot!

Start with the brushes as you say.
When you get the problem repaired and the generator back on, remember to flash the field before starting the engine.
pg