Just bought an 71 XLCH.
#11
12-08-2011, 10:58 PM
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If the bike has been sitting without being run in 16 years I suggest you do the following first before getting into the carburetor.
Look inside the oil tank. Is there any oil in there, or does it look to be a quart or two low?
The oil tank holds 3 qts of oil and if it is low the chances are very good that the missing oil is in the bottom of the crankcase.
A Sportster has a dry sump oiling system (the oil is kept in the tank, not in the crankcase) and sitting without being started can result in the oil draining into the base.
The 1971 also has what is called a transfer valve between the primary and the crankcase.
The oil drains down and fills the bottom end to the point that the oil level reaches the transfer valve.
The bike is on it's sidestand leaning left, so the oil flows through the transfer valve into the primary and transmission.
The primary and transmission share the same oil. You pour oil into the round cap hole and it goes to the transmission as well.
The correct amount of oil for the primary/transmission is 24 oz.
I suggest you drain all of the oil from the transmission and primary and refill with the proper amount and weight of oil.
That will be 60wt engine oil and the amount is again 24 oz.
Because of the transfer valve your bike uses the same oil in the engine and the primary/trans.
That oil is 60wt and I recommend you use Harley-Davidson brand oil.
On the bottom of the crankcase there is no drain plug to drain oil out of the lower end.
The lower end empties when you start the engine, sending oil to 2 different places.
The scavenger section of the oil pump returns oil to the oil tank and what it cannot handle is dumped out on your garage floor through the breather tube located on the right side under the generator. Those are the 2 places.
There are two drain plugs.....one to drain the primary and one to drain the transmission.
Here is a pic of my 1971 showing these two plugs.........
After you get this issue taken care of I think you are now ready to try to get it running.
If you drained 2 qts of oil out of the transmission pour new oil into the tank before trying to start it.
The carb is a good place to begin.
What kind of carb is on the bike.
The original was a Tillotson but someone may have installed another type/brand of carb on there. If it is a Tillotson then getting the bike started is most likely going to be a monumental task.
A Bendix is going to be a better carb. But, look and see what is on there.
After the carb is in shape the very next place to start fixing is the ignition system.
One you are getting wet spark plugs and fire to the spark plugs you have finally reached the point where you can get serious about cranking the old beast up.
I also agree with others who say get a factory manual before you start taking things apart.
Of course any question you may have can be easily answered by someone here on the forum but a manual is the first thing you want to buy.
Then buy the new gas tank if the one you have is rusty or filled with crud.
You may want to try getting it steamed out but a new tank is only $150 at most.
pg
Look inside the oil tank. Is there any oil in there, or does it look to be a quart or two low?
The oil tank holds 3 qts of oil and if it is low the chances are very good that the missing oil is in the bottom of the crankcase.
A Sportster has a dry sump oiling system (the oil is kept in the tank, not in the crankcase) and sitting without being started can result in the oil draining into the base.
The 1971 also has what is called a transfer valve between the primary and the crankcase.
The oil drains down and fills the bottom end to the point that the oil level reaches the transfer valve.
The bike is on it's sidestand leaning left, so the oil flows through the transfer valve into the primary and transmission.
The primary and transmission share the same oil. You pour oil into the round cap hole and it goes to the transmission as well.
The correct amount of oil for the primary/transmission is 24 oz.
I suggest you drain all of the oil from the transmission and primary and refill with the proper amount and weight of oil.
That will be 60wt engine oil and the amount is again 24 oz.
Because of the transfer valve your bike uses the same oil in the engine and the primary/trans.
That oil is 60wt and I recommend you use Harley-Davidson brand oil.
On the bottom of the crankcase there is no drain plug to drain oil out of the lower end.
The lower end empties when you start the engine, sending oil to 2 different places.
The scavenger section of the oil pump returns oil to the oil tank and what it cannot handle is dumped out on your garage floor through the breather tube located on the right side under the generator. Those are the 2 places.
There are two drain plugs.....one to drain the primary and one to drain the transmission.
Here is a pic of my 1971 showing these two plugs.........
After you get this issue taken care of I think you are now ready to try to get it running.
If you drained 2 qts of oil out of the transmission pour new oil into the tank before trying to start it.
The carb is a good place to begin.
What kind of carb is on the bike.
The original was a Tillotson but someone may have installed another type/brand of carb on there. If it is a Tillotson then getting the bike started is most likely going to be a monumental task.
A Bendix is going to be a better carb. But, look and see what is on there.
After the carb is in shape the very next place to start fixing is the ignition system.
One you are getting wet spark plugs and fire to the spark plugs you have finally reached the point where you can get serious about cranking the old beast up.
I also agree with others who say get a factory manual before you start taking things apart.
Of course any question you may have can be easily answered by someone here on the forum but a manual is the first thing you want to buy.
Then buy the new gas tank if the one you have is rusty or filled with crud.
You may want to try getting it steamed out but a new tank is only $150 at most.
pg
So if I drain it from both places that should take care of the oil in the crankcase? If not how to I get that outta there?
#12
12-08-2011, 11:09 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
Yes, that will remove all of the oil inside the engine except for a small amount that will be sitting in the oil pump sump.
There is no way to drain this, except by starting starting the engine.
The oil pump will pick up the sump oil and send it back to the oil tank.
If there is more oil than normal in the sump and the oil pump cannot pump it back fast enough.... then the breather will blow this excess oil out the breather tube located under the generator.
Either way, that is how you empty the sump. No drain plug for that.
pg
There is no way to drain this, except by starting starting the engine.
The oil pump will pick up the sump oil and send it back to the oil tank.
If there is more oil than normal in the sump and the oil pump cannot pump it back fast enough.... then the breather will blow this excess oil out the breather tube located under the generator.
Either way, that is how you empty the sump. No drain plug for that.
pg
#13
12-12-2011, 05:17 PM
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#14
01-20-2012, 06:50 PM
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Hey guys got the oil drained and fresh oil in both the primary and trans. Awaiting all new electrical stuff in the mail haven't had a chance to get the carb done yet. Kinda dreading it really so I've been putting it off. I had a couple questions. There seems to be a lot of oil on and under the engine I'm assuming, yes yes I know it makes an *** out of you and me, it's from sitting so long? Also everything is pretty dirty I was wondering should I strip the whole thing down and clean everything well before continuing anything else? I wanna make her real clean if possible so I was wondering if its a good idea to just pull everything off and give it a good going through? I'm talking EVERYTHING even engine off the frame is this a good idea or should I just do my best with doing that? Please let me know!?! As most of you know I'm a young buck and eager to get this baby going so any advice is welcome! Also I noticed the wiring is really dry rotted should I pull this off and start from scratch? It's all fairly shot from the looks of it. A friend of mine also suggested i replace all the gaskets on the engine? How complicated would that be and is
It nessesary? Remember that its been sitting 16 years. He said its a good iKdea to prevent so much oil from leaking? I'm not sure what to do really. Anyway any advice is welcome I really wanna do this right and make the bike the best it can be.
It nessesary? Remember that its been sitting 16 years. He said its a good iKdea to prevent so much oil from leaking? I'm not sure what to do really. Anyway any advice is welcome I really wanna do this right and make the bike the best it can be.
#15
01-20-2012, 07:33 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
Hey guys got the oil drained and fresh oil in both the primary and trans. Awaiting all new electrical stuff in the mail haven't had a chance to get the carb done yet. Kinda dreading it really so I've been putting it off. I had a couple questions. There seems to be a lot of oil on and under the engine I'm assuming, yes yes I know it makes an *** out of you and me, it's from sitting so long? Also everything is pretty dirty I was wondering should I strip the whole thing down and clean everything well before continuing anything else? I wanna make her real clean if possible so I was wondering if its a good idea to just pull everything off and give it a good going through? I'm talking EVERYTHING even engine off the frame is this a good idea or should I just do my best with doing that? Please let me know!?! As most of you know I'm a young buck and eager to get this baby going so any advice is welcome! Also I noticed the wiring is really dry rotted should I pull this off and start from scratch? It's all fairly shot from the looks of it. A friend of mine also suggested i replace all the gaskets on the engine? How complicated would that be and is
It nessesary? Remember that its been sitting 16 years. He said its a good iKdea to prevent so much oil from leaking? I'm not sure what to do really. Anyway any advice is welcome I really wanna do this right and make the bike the best it can be.
It nessesary? Remember that its been sitting 16 years. He said its a good iKdea to prevent so much oil from leaking? I'm not sure what to do really. Anyway any advice is welcome I really wanna do this right and make the bike the best it can be.
If it were me I would do the following:
Wash off the engine with Simple Green using a bristle brush to scrub the cases and engine parts covered with grime.
I would not remove the engine at this time from the frame.
Next thing after it is cleaned work on getting the engine running.
With the clean engine you will be able to see where oil is coming from if it leaks.
Since it is a Sportster it will not surprise me to see it leaking at one (or more)places.
At that point you can determine if removing the engine is something you need to do (or want to do).
As far as disassembling the entire engine let's say that for you it would be a major task !
See if and where it leaks to begin with, and any questions you have...... just ask.
pg
#16
01-20-2012, 09:14 PM
If it were me I would do the following:
Wash off the engine with Simple Green using a bristle brush to scrub the cases and engine parts covered with grime.
I would not remove the engine at this time from the frame.
Next thing after it is cleaned work on getting the engine running.
With the clean engine you will be able to see where oil is coming from if it leaks.
Since it is a Sportster it will not surprise me to see it leaking at one (or more)places.
At that point you can determine if removing the engine is something you need to do (or want to do).
As far as disassembling the entire engine let's say that for you it would be a major task !
See if and where it leaks to begin with, and any questions you have...... just ask.
pg
Wash off the engine with Simple Green using a bristle brush to scrub the cases and engine parts covered with grime.
I would not remove the engine at this time from the frame.
Next thing after it is cleaned work on getting the engine running.
With the clean engine you will be able to see where oil is coming from if it leaks.
Since it is a Sportster it will not surprise me to see it leaking at one (or more)places.
At that point you can determine if removing the engine is something you need to do (or want to do).
As far as disassembling the entire engine let's say that for you it would be a major task !
See if and where it leaks to begin with, and any questions you have...... just ask.
pg
There is a lot of IronHead basket cases out there that got stripped down and then never got back together again. Please do not become another of those.
I have resurrected a number of bikes - a few Viragos and a couple of IronHeads among them. My approach is to first get the engine running, then to work one area of the bike at a time - always maintaining a running bike.
Typically i do under the tank first - clean, inspect, repair, etc; Then the rear section - wheel, brakes, electrical, etc; then the front wheel, brakes etc; then steering head area, headlite etc. I find this to be a practical approach.
#17
01-23-2012, 06:48 PM
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#18
01-23-2012, 07:26 PM
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When I got my 78 it was filthy I took the simple green way. Did the rewire it was hacked up really bad so I just started over it wansnt to bad but I don't have any of the extras like gauges, turn singnals and so forth and have been riding it for 2 years with out issue. That being said it leaks oil after it sits and it used to bother me but not anymore !!I have a very simple rat set up and the oil leaking is just part of its charm ! If it gets worse then maybe take it down and go from there. I did remove most everything short of engine removal..taking the same route on my 72
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