81' Ironhead carb issues
#11
what they said above....
plus i WOULD MAKE SURE IF IT HAS POINTS OR NOT. i have an 81 and it has points.....it didnt have them originally but they have been put back in by the previous owner.just because you read somthing in a book does not make it so.things have been switched around and modified(sometimes for good sometimes for bad....usually bad because most people dont even try)---------you may be getting a backfire/missing out situation because of dirty points or most likely the gap needs to be reset.you might have electronic ig. but you really need to make sure first.
plus i WOULD MAKE SURE IF IT HAS POINTS OR NOT. i have an 81 and it has points.....it didnt have them originally but they have been put back in by the previous owner.just because you read somthing in a book does not make it so.things have been switched around and modified(sometimes for good sometimes for bad....usually bad because most people dont even try)---------you may be getting a backfire/missing out situation because of dirty points or most likely the gap needs to be reset.you might have electronic ig. but you really need to make sure first.
#12
I agree with the others.
As to which carb to use that will be your choice.
I myself would install the original and leave the S&S for later after you have it running.
The bike first ran OK when you got it with that carb.
So why not now? Find the reason.
I do not buy the statement 'that the carb will never hold it's adjustment' nor do I agree with 'dump the points'.
So if you have points then I would certainly keep them.
They are simple, they do require maintenance from time to time, but if they break down alongside the road you will be able to get it to run enough to get home.
If electronic breaks down just call a tow truck because there is no fixing that alongside the highway.
OK, more stuff to confuse you I am sure. Meanwhile work on getting that service manual asap.
pg
As to which carb to use that will be your choice.
I myself would install the original and leave the S&S for later after you have it running.
The bike first ran OK when you got it with that carb.
So why not now? Find the reason.
I do not buy the statement 'that the carb will never hold it's adjustment' nor do I agree with 'dump the points'.
So if you have points then I would certainly keep them.
They are simple, they do require maintenance from time to time, but if they break down alongside the road you will be able to get it to run enough to get home.
If electronic breaks down just call a tow truck because there is no fixing that alongside the highway.
OK, more stuff to confuse you I am sure. Meanwhile work on getting that service manual asap.
pg
#13
Well family time was well... Got my sons door hung. Wasn't as as hard as I thought it would be. Sounds like I have a lot of work to do tomorrow.
Let me see if I got this right.
1 Put in a good set of plugs
2 Check for points
3 Clean the stock carb
4 Get the dang bike running
5 Check for intake leaks (with propane, no fire)
6 Check for exahust leaks (1/2 oz of oil in each cylinder)
Thank you men I will check back in the morning before I start.
Cant wait to get started
Let me see if I got this right.
1 Put in a good set of plugs
2 Check for points
3 Clean the stock carb
4 Get the dang bike running
5 Check for intake leaks (with propane, no fire)
6 Check for exahust leaks (1/2 oz of oil in each cylinder)
Thank you men I will check back in the morning before I start.
Cant wait to get started
#14
#19
Measuring carb float level; trying to describe the photo in the manual ...
Hold the carb in your right hand, bowl off, float hanging down on the left side. The choke plate is facing you and the fuel input nozzle is at the top.
Hold a small [6"] ruler [steel is nice] with the metric mm side facing you and the end against the carb rim, beneath and very close to but not touching touching the bottom edge of the float as it is hanging there.
Tip the carb back and forth a wee bit, watch the float, and note when it is positioned so that the needle valve just closes.
The outer-most edge of the float should be 16 to 17 mm from the carb rim.
Alternately, the measurement is 0.63 to 0.67 inch
Hold the carb in your right hand, bowl off, float hanging down on the left side. The choke plate is facing you and the fuel input nozzle is at the top.
Hold a small [6"] ruler [steel is nice] with the metric mm side facing you and the end against the carb rim, beneath and very close to but not touching touching the bottom edge of the float as it is hanging there.
Tip the carb back and forth a wee bit, watch the float, and note when it is positioned so that the needle valve just closes.
The outer-most edge of the float should be 16 to 17 mm from the carb rim.
Alternately, the measurement is 0.63 to 0.67 inch
#20