75 ironhead clutch issue
#1
75 ironhead clutch issue
So.. finally getting this thing put back together and running. Motor is running strong. I had her up on my stand, and cant seem to get the clutch to release. I get it into gear, but pulling the clutch doesnt release it, you can feel tension when pulling though. I readjusted it several times in the correct order(yes I adj it both at the pushrod nut and the cable adjuster). It has a new barnett hd kevlar clutch kit, new back plate, new spacers, and a clutch tamer installed, and all the adj/ratchet parts are new. I checked the spacers, and they are the longest ones and I mic'd them to make sure they were in specs (I know you can swap these out for shorter as your clutch wears). Seemed to me like it just wasnt releasing, so I machined down 6 thin washers and placer them on top of the spacers, basically to make them longer, and put it back together. This made a difference... the chutch will pretty much release now, and if I stomp the rear brake, the rear wheel will stop without stalling the bike now (just dragging a little). So what are the options here? Possible the clutch plates are too thick? I Used a bit earlier trans, would that make a difference? thanks for any ideas
#2
Two things:
You said that you "adj it both at the pushrod nut and the cable adjuster" - but did you follow the factory service manual exactly when doing this? Many guys do not get that the ironhead clutch is not the same as on other vehicles. There are 5 or 6 steps in the correct process, some steps have 2 or 3 parts, and they must be done precisely as laid out.
Otherwise, the clutch will probably not work while the bike is on a stand in the shop. Basically the engine has to be running and the bike has to be moving. After the bike has been ridden for a while [a few hours or a few months?] the clutch will free up and work much better; but it will probably always be a little grabby.
Mine took a few months of riding every day before it started to be more or less grabless. My understanding from several years of working these forums is that this is normal IronHead clutch behavior.
From the 1978 owners manual ...
With the motorcycle standing still and the engine not running, it usually will be necessary to move the motorcycle backward and forward with the clutch fully disengaged while maintaining slight presure on the foot shift lever before a shift from one gear to another can be made. Even with the engine running and the motorcycle standing still, difficulty may be experienced in shifting gears.
There is more about this but my fingers are tired.
You said that you "adj it both at the pushrod nut and the cable adjuster" - but did you follow the factory service manual exactly when doing this? Many guys do not get that the ironhead clutch is not the same as on other vehicles. There are 5 or 6 steps in the correct process, some steps have 2 or 3 parts, and they must be done precisely as laid out.
Otherwise, the clutch will probably not work while the bike is on a stand in the shop. Basically the engine has to be running and the bike has to be moving. After the bike has been ridden for a while [a few hours or a few months?] the clutch will free up and work much better; but it will probably always be a little grabby.
Mine took a few months of riding every day before it started to be more or less grabless. My understanding from several years of working these forums is that this is normal IronHead clutch behavior.
From the 1978 owners manual ...
With the motorcycle standing still and the engine not running, it usually will be necessary to move the motorcycle backward and forward with the clutch fully disengaged while maintaining slight presure on the foot shift lever before a shift from one gear to another can be made. Even with the engine running and the motorcycle standing still, difficulty may be experienced in shifting gears.
There is more about this but my fingers are tired.
#3
#4
I am not familiar with the workings of most engine components - clutch, trans, crank, etc; so i guess my answer is "i don't know".
#5
Thanks Mick. I followed the instructions per the actual Harley manual, then the clymer one as well. Also its not an issue of getting it into gear, more of when its in gear and pull the clutch in, it wont disengage. It was enough that while rolling in gear, pull the clutch in and u keep going... if you brake the motor will stall...
Like I said its a lil better now with the addition of the washers, but I know something still isnt right.
Scott, I dont believe that is the case with the barnett....but I will call them tomowwor to make sure.
Like I said its a lil better now with the addition of the washers, but I know something still isnt right.
Scott, I dont believe that is the case with the barnett....but I will call them tomowwor to make sure.
#6
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: 500 miles south from Artic Circle
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Do you have that 75-76 link system, that changes shift lever to left side of bike ?
If you have it you should check that it has NO loose any ware and in neutral position link levers are in correct position... check from FM.
Do you have 6 clutch springs on outer side or 2 clutch spring in center ?
If you have it you should check that it has NO loose any ware and in neutral position link levers are in correct position... check from FM.
Do you have 6 clutch springs on outer side or 2 clutch spring in center ?
#7
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#8
The back is OK - chiropractic every two weeks for the past 20 years so never any problems.
Won't be riding for a while, so started my winter projects. Right now refurbishing the front brakes.
#10