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1974 ironhead generator problem

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  #11  
Old 02-22-2011, 07:24 PM
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Replacing the points and condensor is a good move, based on what i have heard. I have very little direct experience with these parts myself. What i have heard many times on these forums tho is that the imported parts are very very bad. Maybe even very very very bad. Use only parts made in USA. ACCEL is one good brand.
 
  #12  
Old 02-22-2011, 07:47 PM
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at the moment i am running $5 points from autozone for a 6cyl chevy......i cant tell any difference from the $20 autozone ones.the spring is weaker for sure but they seem to work fine.----not trying to debate this just saying what i currently have.

rf99dyna---i kinda think you are getting ahead of yourself.its easy to do and i am often guilty of it.i think you should start from square one....how much voltage does your batt show? with key on how much is showing at the coil?if nothing at the coil then did you bypass the ignition switch like sepix recomended?-----------report back with what you find.
 
  #13  
Old 02-23-2011, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by sepixlh
Old/bad ignition switch might cause this, usually they broke so that lights are flickering...but it can cause also ignition problems. You can test this by bypassing ignition switch.
It's also good to check that wires in handlebar ( right side) aren't pressed by switch covers.
The wires in the handlebar are good. The lights werent flickering really.. it was just after riding for a little while, if he tried starting it back up (kicking it about 40 times because the electric start would stop working), the light would be dim which means the battery is draining and not being recharged. This was around november and we figured it was the generator not putting anything out. We polarized and bench tested the generator. We got it to spin like it should but im still not convinced it's putting anything out. Is there a way to bench test a generator for output? I will get battery and coil readings after work
 
  #14  
Old 02-23-2011, 12:12 PM
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Here is a direct gen test that is not in my previous post. The gen does have to be installed - unless you have a way to run it at 2000 RPM on the bench ...

8. Generator Test #3: Amperes Output
  1. Remove all wires from both A and F terminals
  2. run a jumper from F to a good ground on the motorcycle
  3. run a jumper from A to ammeter +ve
  4. run the engine at 2000 RPM
  5. momentarily jumper from battery +ve to ammeter -ve
  6. ammeter should read 10 amps or more
If the generator fails this test it must be disassembled for repair.
 
  #15  
Old 02-24-2011, 08:29 AM
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Does if have a mechanical regulator? I seen these work then not work. What about the timing weights behind the points cover? Are they froze up? springs not broke? I had my 75 run like crap and back fired through the exhaust, it was cause of the weights weren't moving right.
 
  #16  
Old 03-01-2011, 07:39 AM
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well changing the points and condenser didnt work. Trying the timing magnets behind the points next. Maybe they are stuck or something.
 
  #17  
Old 03-16-2011, 12:15 PM
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the point and condenser were changed, generator rebuilt, and a new regulator put it. The battery still isnt chargin back up when the bike is ridden. Now what? Ignition?
 
  #18  
Old 03-16-2011, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by RF99Dyna
the point and condenser were changed, generator rebuilt, and a new regulator put it. The battery still isnt chargin back up when the bike is ridden. Now what? Ignition?
also, we did the timing on the bike and it now runs fine so that's out of the way. no more backfiring or sputtering.
 
  #19  
Old 03-16-2011, 12:41 PM
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Run the test i described in post #14 above. That will indicate absolutely if the gen is good or not.
 
  #20  
Old 03-16-2011, 01:36 PM
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The generator was tested for output after it was redone. It is putting out
 


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