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Bogging / Hesitation / Sputtering

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  #11  
Old 06-28-2010, 11:44 PM
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If tank isn't full you can just tilt bike and remove petcock.... but cleaning tank isn't bad call.
 
  #12  
Old 06-29-2010, 12:37 AM
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thanks sepixlh... I actually didn't know there was a filter in the petcock. That's what I love about this forum. Collectively, someplace, somewhere, in someone's head is ALL knowledge related to Harley's..and then some! ;-) Semper Fildelis my friend...Kevin
 
  #13  
Old 07-04-2010, 03:18 AM
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Mystery solved...back to riding as normal.

I took the suggestions to clean the carb and to start, I removed the air cleaner canister to take a better look at things. I noticed that the choke plate was not perfectly horizontal. As one would expect, the choke lever was "stuck" in the "almost open, but not quite" position. A position which I can not readily see when riding. Let me back up for a second... I set the choke to full on when I kick it. So far, God has found it in his heart to allow my beast to start usually on the first kick. (this is even after sitting for 2 weeks...uh huh..that's the truth, I swear)... anyhow, I set the choke to full on where I can see the choke lever just sticking above the carb body. When it starts, the choke plate opens, the lever flops down, of course due to the inrush of air upon start. When the lever flopped down, I ASSUMED it went down all the way (choke fully open), but it did not. There's a indent in the lever that allows it to to stay half open. Normal idling, no affect. Moderate accelerations, no effect. Normal to strong accelartions...choking.

For the past two days I've been riding strong and it's as simple as leaning over the carb after start to ensure the choke lever is full down (choke plate horizontal/open).
Probably a good cleaning might allow it to flop down all the way by itself.

thanks all for your suggestions....just in time for a 4th of July ride....Semper Fidelis...Kevin
 
  #14  
Old 07-04-2010, 12:02 PM
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For future reference, this is the adjusting procedure for an adjustable main jet Bendix carb........


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pg
 
  #15  
Old 07-05-2010, 02:29 AM
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Hi piniongear... thanks much for your kind help. My Zenith is a 13859 B. Are my two screws on top basically the same as the two described in the directions you sent? I notice the back one (closest to the engine) seems to adjust the angle (openess) of the throttle plate. Is that simply the fuel to air mix? In a diagram I found online it is labeled the Idle Mixture Needle.

The screw in the middle of the body on top (halfway, give or take, between the throttle plate and the choke plate) is actually a long needle with a small hole near the bottom. In the diagram it is labeled simply Idle Tube. Is the the high speed adjustment from your directions?

I looked everywhere for adjustment directions but only found an exploded view of the 13859. Thanks a bunch for your directions.

I really appreciate your help piniongear....Semper Fi...Kevin
 
  #16  
Old 07-05-2010, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 65xlch53
Hi piniongear... thanks much for your kind help. My Zenith is a 13859 B. Are my two screws on top basically the same as the two described in the directions you sent? Yes.

I notice the back one (closest to the engine) seems to adjust the angle (openess) of the throttle plate. Is that simply the fuel to air mix? Yes.
In a diagram I found online it is labeled the Idle Mixture Needle. On the Zenith sheet it is called 'idle adjusting screw'. In either case this is known as the air mixture screw or 'low speed'

The screw in the middle of the body on top (halfway, give or take, between the throttle plate and the choke plate) is actually a long needle with a small hole near the bottom. In the diagram it is labeled simply Idle Tube. Is the the high speed adjustment from your directions? Yes. This is the high speed adjustment screw. At the bottom of this screw (needle) sits the main jet.
On a Zenith fixed jet carb instead of a needle you would have a fixed non adjustable tube. On that carb the main jet size is changed by removing and replacing the actual main jet.

I looked everywhere for adjustment directions but only found an exploded view of the 13859. Thanks a bunch for your directions.

I really appreciate your help piniongear....Semper Fi...Kevin
Kevin......
I hope this answers your questions.
pg
 
  #17  
Old 07-05-2010, 02:42 PM
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hello piniongear... thanks much for your help... I shall adjust as you indicate today and give it a spin. I really appreciate your help. Semper Fidelis...Kevin
 
  #18  
Old 03-12-2013, 12:04 AM
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Default bike bogging

I have a 09 Ultra Classic that just resently started bogging down while trying to accelerate. I took the tank off to run some wire for my amp and speaker but when i put the bike back together a few days later and went to ride it it started bogging each time i crack the throttle. I have fresh gas in it and i checked the spark plugs, they both are fine. There is noting that is unpluged because i went over the bike again to make sure of it. Any help on this?

Thanks
 
  #19  
Old 03-12-2013, 06:29 AM
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You are in the IronHead forum here, for Sportsters from 1957 to 1985. You might be better served in here ...

Touring Models
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models-11/

More choices ...

Harley Davidson Motorcycles
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/harle...otorcycles-17/

However, bogging down when applying throttle is a classic symptom of too much fuel. I believe your bike has electronic fuel injection rather than a carb so i am, i think, at the end of my assistance.

Hope this helps,
 

Last edited by IronMick; 03-12-2013 at 08:00 AM.
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