The -82 would be better as it will not include parts for 83 to 85.

The brake calipers are supposed to be loose. That is the way they were designed. They do rattle around.

The holes that the nuts sit in originally kept the nuts from spinning, but have been rounded out. This is common. JB Weld or some other epoxy should work there. What you do in the meantime is shove a long, flat blade screwdriver between the spokes from the other side and gently jam it in there to keep the nuts from turning. Gently.

The caliper housing is aluminum.

When i install those bolts i use blue LockTite and tighten the bolts/nuts to just firm plus a little more. I let the locktite do the work.

 

think im going to have a little bit of a battle with the brake rotor. i think from the rattling the bolts are jimmied up inside. stuck the screwdriver in there to try and hold the nut and it just spins the head around and peals aluminum. i ground the pipes down a little, used the copper prematex, let it sit about an hour, and fired it up for just about 30 seconds to check for leaks. i think it worked. going to let it sit overnight. i also drilled holes 2' from the back and bought 2 1/4" thumscrews, ran a nut on it, then put it thru from the inside, then a lock washer,locktight and the nut on the outside. the thumbscrew is nowhere as big around(about 1/2" rather than 1" like a 3/8ths washer diameter welded to the bolt like you did) as the washer welded ,but with out a welder today while i had it apart i drilled the hole and put that in. if it doesnt change the color of the plugs, the hole is already there and i can get a few of them welded up. if all goes well that you cure the leaks exhaust and fuel side. also cleaned out aircleaner cover, and sprayed foam down with tacy oil from a spray can that i use on mu 4wheeler aircleaners. still waiting on that damn book, and ordered the part catalog last night. gonna get a oil filter tomorrow and 50 wt. oil for it. what do you think of sea foam? i use it in everything else. it internally cleans any varnish from floatbowls and cleans cumbustion chambers and cylinder and valves if a little is mixed with the oil. i know alot of people who swear by it. helps oil pressure and smoking from sticky valves and such. not how it will work in this scoot. think i should give it a try as long as im dumping oil anyway? thanks guys. any thoughts would help as i will have to ad it to the oil tomorrow morning as i ad the oil so i dont over fill it. 3 quarts of oil for a change right? bolt on left side cover into a pail correct? how do you get it all out of the crankcase when that bolt is a foot higher than the bottom of the motor or doesnt it matter? thanks agian!

 

cool project. thanks for the replies. hows yours coming along? last i heard i believe you said you were starting to do the wiring

 

I think you meant brake caliper?

The exhaust should be well sealed up now. I would run the check again just to be certain.

The thumb screws should do the job. No need to weld on any washers. I have been told reliably that the size etc does not matter. Most guys use the thumbscrews. I made mine before i heard this.

50 wt oil is a good choice.

I have used SeaFoam. Seems to be good stuff.

1980 and 1981 take 4 quarts of oil. All the other years take 3 qts. Yes, bolt at bottom of left side cover is the drain. There is not enough oil in the crankcase to be concerned about.

 

An alternative to silicone for the exhaust gaskets is .005 shim stock. Its cheap and effective and works like a champ. Sealed up my exhaust leak like a champ.

 

Do you place the shim between the cylinder head and the pipe? or betwen the pipe and the clamp? Between the head and the pipe seems logical but i was unable to do that on a previous bike that i had - it just squished out. Do you buy it at auto supply stores? How does it compare to beer can material, which is what i have often seen recommended?

 

any one have suggestions for a windshield on this bike? i have drag bars on it, so they are pretty much straight(there is a like a 3" riser up to the bars themselves) and most of the mounting hardware ive seen has the bottom going to the forks or the riser, then the top out of the windshield going to where the normal bend in the handle bars(stock) would be. i dont see an issue with the bottom mount(even on a quick release?) but the top is what has me a little confused. thanks