until i get the manual, what i have done so far from the answers you all gave me is as follows. i do have a slight exhaust leak at both heads at the header pipe(all 1 straight pipe on both) and i cant get it to quit by tightening the clamps. it appears they are leaking where the factory slits are cut into the flange. i also replaced the foam over the carb. i pulled the sparkplugs and they are a light white. was told as long as the compression was over 65lbs and there was 5lbs or less between the the 2 cylinders i would be good compressionwise. did the compression check and the rear cylinder was 102lbs and the front was 105lbs. so compression is good. the plug color concerns me a little. thats about as far as i have gotten thus far till i get a manual. gonna have to learn about voltmeters and amps/ohms and such. worked on semis all my life, but never got involved with the wirings as i dont see colors good, and a shock or burn is how i find the hot wire.(lol) i do appreciate all the help guys. thanks for the responses

 

The factory manuals cover 1979 to 1985.

 

I think the senior riders here may correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe these bikes like to have a little backpressure via the exhaust - if you have straightpipes, might want to look into that.

Also, think it was in a recent post here I read some folks have used soda can aluminum as a gasket for exhaust pipes. There are bound to be other suggestions, too, just one that came to mind.

Manuals are pretty good about giving some step by step instructions on generator testing. If you have an electrician buddy to help decipher some of the initial lingo (hot wire, field, ground, etc.) that you may be uncomfortable with, buy him a sixpack and have him over for an hour to check it over.

Helps, too, because electrician buddies have electrician tools - which means you don't need to buy any. I'm lucky and have a nice Fluke multimeter from a previous job, which isn't cheap on the general market (and is perfect for a hacker like me). If you do splurge on a nice test meter, I recommend them.


- Al

 

The exhaust leak is responsible for the white color of the plugs. It is very important to correct this.

I have not tried the beer can/pop can gasket myself. I believe it is used between the clamp and the pipe. I always use Permatex Ultra Copper sealant - i apply a little to the inside of the pipe then slip it onto the head flange.

Another technique used with aftermarket pipes is to cut an extra slit or two, as there are sometimes only two slits; or to make the slits a little deeper - but not too deep!

Whoever told you 65 psi is wrong. The book says that the static cylinder compression should be 120, with less than 10% difference. Many guys report getting 150 or higher. The compression test must be done on a fully warmed up engine. Results from a cold engine are meaningless. Results around 100 are low, again indicating a top end job is in the near future - but not necessarily indicating that it needs to be done right now.

 

thanks guys. i did the compression test with a cold engine. you really bummed me out when you said the compression should be up around the 120 lb area. i was thinking that if it was 65 as i was originally told, that i had really excellent compression at 102 and 105 lbs. kind of let the air out of the buble on that 1 for me. i think i am going to try some of that exhuast tape or exhaust sealant and start with that 1st. the pipe slides onto the collar on the head really easy, and i have it all the way up butted agianst the head, then tightened the clamp. there is a little leak where the seperation is that the bolt goes thru to tighten the clamp. that seams like a good as anyplace to start until the manual gets here. i found the 99484-85 service manual you said to get on ebay lastnight new in the wrapper for 15 bucks and 8 bucks to ship it. should be here ups in 3 days or less. the same harley mechanic who told me anything over 65lbs and within 5lbs of each other compression is sufficiant also told me that it maybe a matter of the pushrods being to tight. he said they dont get to loose, they have the tendacy to tighten up, and that may be my oil problem with the smoke and rattle. right know im going to go out and let it run, take it around the block and come back in and do another compression test(will the slight exhaust leak throw that off also?) thanks agian guys

 

The Permatex Ultra Copper RTV is a hi-temp silicone, comes in tubes like toothpaste.

Ensuring that the pushrods are adjusted correctly is important. It can be tedious the first couple of times then when you get the hang of it it is easy. The lock nut does not need a lot of ft lbs on it, just firm plus some more. It will not come loose.

 

thanks mick, i appreciate all your input, and feel kinda guilty bothering you guys with all these questions.that copper rv silicone you are talking about, is that the same stuff i would use on valve cover gaskets on a car?(does it say something on the 1 you are talking about being an exhaust sealant? i want to try that as the soda can thing didnt completly fix it either) i use the blue permatex to build my own gaskets on that stuff. i have been going thru what you have said as i can, doing what im sure of till i get the service manual. i tried the other guys idea with the soda can. i trimmed it down,put it around the exhaust ear coming off the head(part of the casting right? it isnt a insert?) and then slid the pipes back over it. there is still a very slight leak. the drag pipes each have 3 slits cut in them. i slid the clamps down, and pushed the pipe up onto the the exhaust flange until it butted up tight with the head. if i bring them back just a hair, i can see thru the slit into the exhaust port. so the slit just barley goes over where i slide it on, and i believe that is where the leak is coming from is where each slit is. there are no baffles in the pipes at all. another guy mentioned not enough back preesure. after doing that i took it out and ran it fairly hard came back,pulled the plugs(white agian) and did the compression check. this time was rear cylinder 104lbs and front 106lbs.(cold was only a few lbs diference in each jug) i also pushed with the palm of my hand on the generater when it was idled up and it kind of feels like some of the rattle is coming from there, unless that is just transfering thru from the vibration of the motor. the sound is also like if you had a footpeg sitting there rattling on the forward control, and gets louder as you accelerate. i have the guy who told me about the 65lbs of compression putting a new front tire on next monday, and he said he would adjust the pushrods, and my clutch for me. hopefully he will let me look over his shoulder and get an idea of what he is doing. i guess another week till i can ride it. id like to try your silcone idea, and if it wont seal, ll start looking for some different pipes(perhaps what ever belongs on it) that have the proper baffles in it. any other metric bike i have had that i put pipes on i have gotten a matching jet kit for it. my guess is that this guy i got it from just put the pipes on and no jets. that could be part of the white plugs also right? it doesnt backfire, but it pops. new to harley, but it seams most of these wuth there unique sound pop any way dont they? thanks agian for everything mick.

 

The sealant i use for the exhaust is "Permatex Ultra Copper sensor-safe hi-temp RTV gasket" according to the label. There are a few versions identified by color: black, blue, and red. I believe the copper has the highest temperature rateing. Virtually any auto supply shop will have these. Here is a link ...
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

Sounds like the slits are cut too deep. If you have a grinder you could try grinding down the top end of the exhaust pipe a bit.

Bolt&washer or lollipop baffles are a common choice for drag pipes. You can either make them from a bolt and washer or use a thumb screw. Here is how i made a set ...



The dimensions of the washer do not matter - i used one about 3/4" OD as i recall; some guys just use a thumb screw - easier as no welding required. It just has to interfere with the flow to provide some back pressure.

Did you do the compression test with the throttle wide open, and the choke open [**** pushed in]? Easy to forget about the throttle.

The gen is the noisiest part of the engine. To isolate any noise from there you can remove the gen, cover the hole, and run the bike - either high idle or go for a short ride. See what sounds disappear.

Do you hear that rattley sound at idle? or just while riding. It is very difficult to pinpoint sounds while riding. This is where listening with a mechanics stethoscope is so helpful. A useful and inexpensive tool - Princess Auto or Harbor Freight. Listen at 2 points on each side of each rocker cover, top middle and bottom of each pushrod tube, 4 cams thru the cover, both ends of the gen. The gen is the noisiest. Others should sound like rotating steel parts.

The stock jets for 1981 are main 160, slow 68. It is common to change the main to 165. With the drag pipes you may need to go up to about a 75 slow. Use the Pilot Screw Setting procedure that i posted earlier - at the end of my long post.

The white plugs are undoubtedly caused by the exhaust leak, but if the jetting is too lean then that would also be part of it.

 

thanks mick. i didnt have the throttle wide open when i did the compression check,not the choke on(if i pull the choke out that is for cold start, pushed in is normal riding. do i need it pulled like im choking it or normal pushed in during the compression check?) i am going to get some of the rv silicone, grind a little off the ends of the pipes, and goop the hell out of it, get 2 new clamps. i didnt really understand how that worked with the thumbscrew. im picturing it kind of, but just trying to figure out how i would clamp it to the back of the 1 3/4" diameter 45 degree cut pipes. or with your welded washer to the bolt. what holds yours on? did you drill a hole in the rear of the pipe 1/4" to accomodate the 1/4" bolt?. im taking it for granted that by using a 3/4" washer in a 1 3/4" hole allows the exhaust to go around the outside of the washer and thru the center hole if it was bolted strate thru the pipe. as far as the thumb, not sure how i would attach it, and if im picturing it right, it would only allow the sides and the top(or bottom, which ever end you clamped it to) to have exhaust flow



'

 

Yes, you need a 1/4" hole in the pipe; often there is already one there, on the unseen side, a few inches forward of the end of the pipe. The washer is then inside the pipe and a nut and lockwasher go on the outside. Exhaust flows around and thru the washer. It does virtually nothing to the sound but makes a dramatic difference to low end acceleration. Some guys tune it by having the washer at an angle.

With the thumb screw the thumb part is inside the pipe like the washer. The hole in the middle of the washer and the size apparently do not matter so the thumb screw works as well. I have not used the thumb screw myself, just the bolt&washer.