hey guys
i got this 73 sporty, don't know how long it sat. filled cylinders with atf, soaked for a while , everything seems able to move,was wondering best way to drain and flush out engine , i figured my next step was kerosene in everything then drain and flush, then fill with oil, any suggestions on how to get this all cleaned out and flushed. i don't understand how to drain without plug in case bottom., anything constructive on this subjectwould be appreciated, thanks
bergy

 

Quite frankly, i think this idea of flushing out an entire engine is not a valid idea. Read thru this thread from another forum ...
a useful guide for ironheads which have been sitting neglected for a long time
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...ad.php?t=69876

 

There must be something getting into the water supply! Someone check that out.
You are the second person in less than a day who has filled the engine with fluids other than oil.
The other fellow (on another forum) filled his up with kerosene then wants to know how to drain it.

So, I will tell you the same thing I told him.........
Number one, this was a mistake filling it with ATF! Ditto for kerosene.
You should never do that. But, it is done now, so you have to get it out.
Drain the primary and the transmission by removing the drain plug for each. Here is a pic of where they are located......



For the engine crankcase you have a more serious problem facing you.
About the only way you can drain the bottom end is to remove your timing cover, lean the bike over on it's right side and sop up the mess as best you can.
Removing the timing cover requires you to remove the ignition and then when the cover comes off some of the cams are going to fall out.
You will need a factory service manual to most likely get it removed and certainly will need the manual to get the cams back in place and do the cam timing.
So get a manual before you even start this!

Now look under the engine crankcase. Do you see a large plug there in the center of the case? If so..... DO NOT TOUCH THIS PLUG. This is not a drain plug and should never be removed under any circumstance!
This plug was used to seal a hole required for machining when your bike was built. Rather than weld it closed HD just rammed a plug in the hole. The threads on the plug are about 3/8 inches long.
Many owners have made the mistake of removing this plug and the result is a ruined set of crankcases. The aluminum is crumbly and the threads will certainly strip out where you will never get the plug back in tight.
At the end of this short plug sits the flywheels..... about a quarter inch away from the end of the plug. So you cannot run a tap in there to try to renew the threads. I cannot stress this enough! DO NOT TOUCH THIS PLUG.
The earlier bikes did not have the plug but a 1973 most likely has one.

On a 1973 Sportster you must use the same oil in the transmission and primary as you use in the engine oil tank. That oil will be 60wt.
Inside the primary area is a transfer valve located in the left hand crankcase and this transfers a small amount of oil from the engine to the primary/transmission.
Absolutely do not use ATF in the transmission. The primary and transmission share the same oil and the amount is 24oz.

Belt drive on a Sportster? Nah, Poco already told you about (not) doing that, and what he says is true.
pg

 

You could pull a jug..then use a shop vac with a rubber hose attached,stick the hose down beside the flywheels.This would make Ya install a new set of rings..hone/inspect cylinders and heads...

 

I did this one time. Used a drill pump. Very effective. Drill pump operates from your hand drill. Cheap at Princess Auto or Harbor Freight.

 

if you pull the frotn jug whiel the the head is removed and the piston at the top of the stroke just suspend the jug with rope/bungee/wire, before the rings clear the jug. should give you enough room to get a suction hose down in there and not have to replace rings etc if you dotn want to replace them