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  #11  
Old 08-25-2009 | 10:26 PM
piniongear's Avatar
piniongear
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From: Houston Texas
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Maybe, but......
Look at the points gap first. Check the gap at both cam lobes (ignition cam). The gap should be .018.
If the points are really pitted and burned up, yes then replace the points and condenser.

The points backing plate hold down screws should be centered in the adjustment slots. This will be close enough on the ignition timing to get the bike started. Timing will be required later using a timing light.

Check the spark now. Does it spark? Yes is OK. No is not OK and you have to go back to the points and discover what you did wrong with the install.

When you do get spark, go buy a can of starter fluid. Open the throttle full and give it a good shot down the throat with the fluid.
Replace the air cleaner as fast as possible so the fluid does not evaporate. Work quickly, but do not try to start the bike without an air cleaner or you may well set the machine on fire.

If it is getting spark I can guarantee you that it will light off with the starter fluid after 4 or 5 kicks.
If it don't pop after 5 kicks, spray it again. It will go.......... pg

Originally Posted by jswhitex
OK, I have no spark...one good point is that in this process I pulled the starter and it is now turning over better than it ever has (loose magnet). But I still have no spark. New points and condenser?
 
  #12  
Old 08-29-2009 | 04:37 PM
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jswhitex
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From: Chillicothe, Ohio
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ok, figured out why I didn't have spark, now I do. now the starter just wants to click and almost melt the negative terminal of my battery when it does just click. Can still kick her and she fires...got her static timed. is close to what she used to sound like, but when riding she doesn't really open up like she should, in any of the gears. she acts like she is kind of flooding without dying, you know what I mean? anyway...any comments on any of those situations would be great, but my real question is how do I time her? I have read all the post her so I have a good idea of what I need to do, but like most of these irons she is far from original...no tach...so how do I tell when she is at 2000 rpms without a tach?
thanks guys...I am so close and so frustrated...she is almost for sale...there is no way in hell I am selling her!!! I know everyone knows how I feel!!q
 
  #13  
Old 08-29-2009 | 05:13 PM
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piniongear
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From: Houston Texas
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Lem'me see here if I can describe 2000 rpm.
A very fast idle is approx 1200-1300 rpm.

Roll the throttle just a tad bit more and the engine sound will be constant. (You cannot hear the individual cylinders anymore as you can at a high idle) That's pretty close to 2000 rpm.

It's not that critical that you have it at exactly 2000 rpm. All you want to do is run it fast enough to make the centrifical advance unit to advance the timing by throwing out the weights. 2000 rpm or 3000 rpm will do the same thing, so just run the engine at a fairly fast clip. That will do you......... pg

Originally Posted by jswhitex
ok, figured out why I didn't have spark, now I do. now the starter just wants to click and almost melt the negative terminal of my battery when it does just click. Can still kick her and she fires...got her static timed. is close to what she used to sound like, but when riding she doesn't really open up like she should, in any of the gears. she acts like she is kind of flooding without dying, you know what I mean? anyway...any comments on any of those situations would be great, but my real question is how do I time her? I have read all the post her so I have a good idea of what I need to do, but like most of these irons she is far from original...no tach...so how do I tell when she is at 2000 rpms without a tach?
thanks guys...I am so close and so frustrated...she is almost for sale...there is no way in hell I am selling her!!! I know everyone knows how I feel!!q
 
  #14  
Old 08-29-2009 | 08:39 PM
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IronMick
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: London, ON Canada
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Check out this excellent video from YouTube ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKVh4pbyh2A
 
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