I got this bike from a friend, he paid $3000 for it and rode it for about 30 miles when oil pump went out and locked up. The local shop told him it would a top end and they wouldnt go anyfarther unles he paid up front, I want to know if yall think, that just the top end is all it would need in your experence. I know I'll need to go into the lower end to clean it out. This is my first bike and I want it to have my blood sweat and tears in it. I have a service manual for 70 - 75. Will this book work for mine too? Would someone go over with me what I have so I'll know what people are saying? What would a ballpark figure be for parts? All the other websites say that Sportsters where either 883 or 1200 but on the side of mine it says 1000, What have I got and what is it equivelent too C.I.

 

I assume we are talking about an ironhead Sportster here. When the pump suddenly fails it usually means that a small half moon key has sheared. This key holds the gears that pump oil through the engine tightly to the shaft that turns the pump. When it goes, there goes the engine.
If it locked up, you pretty much have your answer. I do not understand the shop saying they would go no further than doing a top end, but I do understand why they want payment up front. The engine has major problems. The bottom end is a very expensive area to have to get into. You may be looking at new crank, rod bearings, the cams may be galled, new oil pump and a lot of other things if it's the worse case.
Then you have the top end to deal with. Possibly new pistons, rebore and valves. Sorry about the dim outlook, but I want to be honest with you. If it were me, I would pass on repairing this engine. My guess is that it could cost you a couple of thousand dollars to repair it, at the very least. Some of the bottom end work would have to be done by a shop because of the special tools needed to allign the flywheels, and even get the engine apart. Look at that manual to see what you are facing going into the lower end.
The terms '883 and 1200' are related (I think) to the modern day Sportster, not the ironhead. Ironheads started life in 1957. There were two models, the XLH and the XLCH. The XLH had 18 inch wheels as I recall and was the 'road version' of the Sportster. The engine size was 883cc or 53.9 cu inch. Back then it was aka 'a 55 inch' engine. Later there was a model added called the XL. Minor differences between the three models. If yours has '1000' on the side primary cover it is a 1972 or newer machine
1971 was the last year of the 883cc engine. This was aka 'the 900.' 1972 began production of the 997.5cc engine, aka 'the 1000' or 'the 61 cu inch' by oldtimers who still spoke in cu inches rather than cc's. The ironhead was gone by 1985 and the engine size began to get larger. My experience ends there with the Sportster, so I will stop. Today the Sportster is still available today in either a 1200cc or 883cc size. This machine is the longest continuously produced model that the MoCo has ever made.
If anyone can correct me on what I stated about the ironhead history, please step in and do so. There may be additional things that I did not cover...........piniongear

 

Here's what I have frome Bruce Byner's HD site:

1957:
Enter the Sportster. Basically a K-model with a new top end. Aluminum rocker boxes, aluminum pistons w/chrome plated top compression ring & nonplated center compression ring & lower U-Flex oil control ring, Stellite faced exhaust valves, 4 cams w/ramps on open and close sides, aluminum alloy pushrods, roller valve lifters called "High Speed Racing Tappets", double tapered Timken roller bearings, engine ID numbers on pad located on left side between cylinders, right side foot shift 4 speed, 7 plate clutch w/left handlebar lever, 2 brush generator w/2 unit regulator, optional windshield and saddlebags. Other 1957 XL specs: 53.9ci, (883cc), 3.0" x 3.81" bore/stroke, 7.5:1 compression, 40hp @ 5,500rpm, Linkert carb, duplex chain primary, 57" wheelbase, 495lbs, 3 qts oil, 4.4 gallon fuel.

XL Sportster, 883cc, medium compression, 4 speed, (1983), $1,103

1958:
Also new in '58 were additions to the Sportster line as the XLC, (an offroad version of the XL which gained "streetability" in '59. The letter 'C' for Competition); and H designations for high compression.

1958 XLCH specs: 53.9ci, (883cc), 3.0" x 3.81" bore/stroke, 9:1 compression, 45hp, triplex primary chain, 480lbs, 1.9 gallon fuel, [another source says 2.25 gallon], (later to be known as the "Peanut Tank"), 3 qts oil, 115mph. The XLCH had high domed pistons, light rod tappets, shortened rear fenders, semi-knobby tires, magneto ignition, roller valve lifters, short dual pipes, and optional alloy wheels. The XLC had no lights or speedo, it was strictly offroad.

XL Sportster, 55ci, medium compression, 4 speed, (579), $1,155
XLH Sportster Sport, 55ci, high compression, (711)
XLC Sportster Racing, 55ci, medium compression,
XLCH Sportster Super Sport, 55ci, high compression, (239)

And here's from your year, 1976:
XLH - 1,000cc, 4 speed, (12,844)
XLCH - 1,000cc, 4 speed, (5,238)

 

After reading what I posted early this morning, I guess I was still half asleep. lol He took it the local shop and after they took the top end down they told him what happened but they didnt want to go any farther down until they told him what it cost to fix and let him decide if he wanted to pay that much for it. He's not going to work on it himself or pay alot to have it fixed. So I thought maybe if I could do it in my garage then I would fix it. It doesnt sound promising and I think I'll just hang on to my $200. Unless I could sell it for more than that, How much is this bike worth like it is?

 

Sorry, should have told ya that the bike is real good shape and no rust anywhere, paint is in good shape and has been in the south since it was new and garage kept.

 

There is a member (CycloneRacer) who currently has a 1973XL that he is going to rebuild and he might be interested in buying some parts from you if you decide to buy the bike for $200. You should be able to recoup the 200 bucks easily by parting it out and walk away with some profit if that is what you want to do. I think the job of rebuilding the engine will be way more than the machine will be worth. Bottom ends are expensive. More so than the top because so much more has to come apart which really runs up the labor cost......piniongear

 

I have decided to go ahead and get it. I really like the looks of it and I have always like tearing things down to see how they work. If it sits in my garge 5 yrs it will be alright. If it starts to get over my head then I'll get a shop to do it. All total bike and new motor around $4000. Thats not much more than they're going for on ebay with alot of miles. I do want to thank you for the info you have given me and hope I can get to ask alot more from you in the near future. Do you think that I may get to just clean the lower end out and in a perfect world "everything will be all right"

 

Good for you JD! I am glad to hear you decided to get it. I think you will be happy with your decision. If you are willing to put as much as $4K into the bike you will have no problem. I think it will be less than that however if the rest of the machine is in good shape. I am thinking $2500 may do it and if you want to some of the work yourself I encourage you to do so. A lot of guys are intimidated with such a project. Feel free to call on me for whatever I can help you with.
If you care to look at what my rebuild of my Sportster involved see it at http://area51.tzo.com/bperry/gallery
piniongear

 

This what the pistons, heads and jugs look like

 

Sorry, here they are. Notice the cloce up on the jug, It looks to like a piece of the piston embeded in the cylinder wall.

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