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75 Ironhead oil bag functions?

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  #11  
Old 06-26-2009, 12:44 AM
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Sepixlh nailed it nicely! Good pics too.

The pinion gear timing mark is on the outside (where you can see it) of the gear. There is also one spline on the crank that is wider than the others. This keys the pinion gear to the crank. So the only way to install the pinion backwards is to have the face with the mark facing in......... pg

PS: Oh, and be sure to adjust the push rods after you are done putting it back together.......BEFORE YOU START THE ENGINE!
 

Last edited by piniongear; 06-26-2009 at 12:47 AM.
  #12  
Old 06-26-2009, 05:31 AM
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Here is a link to the service bulletin regarding cam shimming. Read it and consider whether you need to shim them or not. Most believe that shims are unnecessary.

This is on my SkyDrive. Select the icon [right side] and click on "DownLoad" [left side].

http://cid-e2880b68d32bbca8.skydrive...vcBullM860.pdf
 
  #13  
Old 06-26-2009, 09:14 PM
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Wow thanks for all the information on the oil tank, nice drawing. The over flowing was happening because I had the filter in and it wasn't passing through it as fast as it was pumping so I just took it out and watched it pump. I have another question, do I need to warm up the bike and then check the trans oil level also or should this be done while cool? Thanks again for all the info.
Jeremy
 
  #14  
Old 06-26-2009, 09:54 PM
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Either way is fine. If the oil is checked when the machine is cold, all of the oil will be sitting at the bottom.
If checked when hot, some of the oil is going to be clinging to the clutch, primary chain etc. But probably no noticable difference between reading it either way.
It's 6 of one or half a dozen of the other............. pg
 
  #15  
Old 06-27-2009, 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by IronMick
Here is a link to the service bulletin regarding cam shimming. Read it and consider whether you need to shim them or not. Most believe that shims are unnecessary.
That's both interesting and comforting -- I came to the same conclusion on my recently assembled, but not yet run, XL engine. I will be running shimless.

Originally Posted by marksjeff
do I need to warm up the bike and then check the trans oil level also or should this be done while cool?
I have an engineer friend who says, "Never measure with a micrometer if you're gonna mark with chalk and cut with an axe". My take on that is don't introduce precision into a scenario where it will be a stranger.

In my experience, ironhead trans oil varies more day-to-day than it does hot-to-cold.
 

Last edited by halmc; 06-27-2009 at 05:40 AM.
  #16  
Old 06-27-2009, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by IronMick
Here is a link to the service bulletin regarding cam shimming. Read it and consider whether you need to shim them or not. Most believe that shims are unnecessary.
Originally Posted by halmc
That's both interesting and comforting -- I came to the same conclusion on my recently assembled, but not yet run, XL engine. I will be running shimless.
I neglected to add that there have been reports of cam shims getting crunched and messing up the oil pump. Many believe the spec in the manual [.005] is too tight, that if you do shim it should be to .015.
 
  #17  
Old 06-27-2009, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by IronMick
I neglected to add that there have been reports of cam shims getting crunched and messing up the oil pump. Many believe the spec in the manual [.005] is too tight, that if you do shim it should be to .015.
Aye, exactly what my intuitition told me. 0.005" might be fine for the NASA's orbiter, but not for a vintage harley.
 
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