I agree that a left hand twist drill bit would be best, if he can find one. Who knows if it's got cobbed-up threads or what since he ain't replying to us.
I hope he got/gets it out...however he did/does it.
That bolt has a 1/4" shaft as I recall, with a 9/16" or 5/8" head, right?

 

You are about correct regarding the bolt size. The bolt has a slightly small diameter in the center section of it and that is where most break (at the transition point).
If the OP still is interested in what we have to offer him (?Who Knows, he has not said a word yet) then all he has to do is pick up the phone and call Rex Supply here in Houston:.............713-222-2251 wThe part number is AE55-008 and the price is $1.65 for a 1/8 inch left hand screw machine drill.
If he is not interested enough to tell us anything then we can assume he does not need further help, and I am OK with that..............pg

 

Piniongear Why the reduced diameter at the center section of that bolt ? It seems to taper approx 1/8 in from the bolt head approx 3/4 in going toward the threads

 

Sorry for the delay - had to get some work done on wife's van... I went to Sears and got a small screw extractor and it said to use it along with a 5/64 drill bit. The bolt was sheared off flush, so it was pretty easy to center it. I center punched the bolt, 5/64 drilled into it just a little bit and then the screw extractor on a tap handle backed that sucker right on out. Didn't bitch up the threads or anything. Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll check at Home Depot and see if they have a grade 8 bolt in that size, although I guess if it's only going to break every 20-25 years it's not that bad...

Now I can't wait to get that bitch fired back up and take a frigid ride around central PA!!

 

Beerlover.......Do not substitute the Harley bolt for another kind. Most likely you will never have another one break. Buy another Harley bolt to replace the broken one.

Sqdealgeorge..... I have never figured out why the reduced bolt diameter, but it has been on there since the first 1971 model when HD changed the circuit breaker location to inside the timing cover..........pg

 

Been there, done that. Got the broken bolt as a memento. Mine decided to break outside of a Chinese restaurant. Glad to see that you got yours out. All of the advice given was excellent. I'm going to take it a step farther and suggest you bag the Fred Flintstone ignition system and get a Crane Hi-4 electronic setup for it. Set it and forget it.

 

just a note for some of you guys, if you don't have a huge extractor set for removing busted bolts and such, if you have a torx bit set that you can put on a ratchet, these work great for removing busted bolts. just drill the hole and tap the torx bit in, and even if you have a bolt that's seized in, you can work it back and forth to get it to loosen up. Just like using and extractor, careful not to break it off, cuz you will never be able to drill through the hardened tool. I also would not reccomend doing this with the cheap made in china version, as they are usually very brittle and break easily.

 

I considered converting it back to electronic ignition, but I'd still have that timing bolt to deal with, right? And I don't have a problem getting spark with the old fashioned points and I don't have an extra couple hundred buck lying around. I think the new bolt and some new advance springs for good measure should do me fine. I think the Hi-4 will have to stay a "one of these days" things for now...

The Sears screw extractors were only like $3 each.

 

Mine just broke last night an hour out. Kind farmer used his truck to deliver me and bike home. Still good people out there. Just added bike to AAA.

 

my buddy had the same problem with his. sounds like a common problem eh?