I know that you have talked about chains. but I got a question about allowable stretch. Early this year I was getting oil slattering off my chain getting on my tire under fender you get the idea.Thought it was coming from mainshaft seal.So I figure while I'm at it I might as well go to a 23 tooth gear. so following instructions to check for chain stretch so laid it out flat and straight pushed links together and measured pulled it tight and measured again had exactly 1inch difference Is this acceptable? Far as I know chain is Diamond O-ring type only marks I could find small diamond on master link. And thanks for your help.

 

With 1 inch of stretch I would say you are about at the point you need a new chain.
Try this:
Put the chain on and move the wheel back. Rotate the wheel as you feel the chain tension. There is going to be a 'tight spot' at one point.
When you hit the tight spot, move the wheel rearward until the chain is snug but not racked back with the chain as tight as a banjo string. (No up and down movement possible at the mid point) Snug down the axle nut.

Rotate the wheel and find the loose point. Stop. Does the free play at the mid point move up and down more than 3/4 inch? If it does, replace the chain before you have to replace sprockets as well. Running a worn out chain will soon start to eat the teeth off the sprockets...........pg

 

Or lock up the rear wheel when it breaks. Isn't the primary chain oiler adjustable? or did it "go away" in '64? If there, might eliminate some of the rear tire mess... Or am I thinking of something else and I should just STFU? LOL

 

"Primary chain" usually refers to the internal chain, behind the primary cover on the left side of the bike. The question in this thread is referrring to the rear chain, also known as the drive chain.

The chain oiler was for the rear chain. It did disappear at some point - i do not know when; before 1980 [my bike year] anyway.

 

Another way to check for a worn chain: find the loosest spot on the chain, then rotate the rear wheel to get that spot on the back of the rear sprocket. Then grab the chain at the back of the sprocket between thumb and forfinger and pull. If you can see more than 1/2 tooth the chain is worn and needs to be replaced.

 

Chain I find to last the longest is Tsubaki..

 

After running expensive Tsubaki's for 10+ years and getting no longer life out of them, I tried an el Cheapo. A couple of years ago, I put on this nickel plated chain. I don't lube it since nickel is self lubing. I only wipe it down with WD-40 every now and then to clean it. It has held up fine and is hard to beat for 31 bucks.

http://parts.motorcycle-superstore.c...er-sports.html

 

Thanks,Everybody! Think I'll go with a new chain. You always have good info.I really appriciate all your help. Kelly,

 

As was stated above, you are skirting on the edge of the chain's useful life. I like to lubricate my chains with lithium grease. It will not fly off. If you have an automatic chain oiler, turn it off and/or plug it shut.

 

Try the $40 tsubaki chain 5000 miles and still in great shape I use chain lub every 300 plus miles