I am rebuilding a sporty that I bought new in 1973. It was running fine when I stopped riding it. It has been stored in the garage for years. I have the original service manual.
I have the teardown completely documented with lots of pics. I have some questions that maybe you guys can help.

I want to chrome the front forks but the manual says that the 73 bushings are not removable. If I can't take them out then how can I chrome them. I did buff and polish but aluminum forks always end up getting dirty and black. The sliders work alright and I don't think I need to take out the shock absorber guts but I really want to chrome them. Is there any clear coat that will work over the polished fork?

Are the neck bearing races pressed in? The old hammer and punch doesn't seem to budge them?

I'm in neeed of a bezel for the speedo. Any ideas. Didn't see them in JP Cycles.

What type of paint for the frame and tins. I have read alot about epoxy primer and sealer but not sure about the top coat and clear coat. How do I find out the original colors of this model. I would like to keep it stock. Original paint is metal flake blue. Maybe another stock color would look better.

Well, thats all for now. If anyone is interested in helping that would be great. I have a lot more pics if anyone is interested.

Thanks,
Ranjet

 

i think kuryakyn makes chrome covers for the forks, i know they make them for wide glide front ends and you can get them on ebay pretty cheap. i have been told they look good.

 

Are the neck bearing races pressed in? The old hammer and punch doesn't seem to budge them?
They are. You can remove them with a brass drift bar and perhaps a larger hammer. But be aware that will require you to buy another set of races and install them, hoping the new ones fit as tight as what you have. My recommendation is to leave them alone.

I'm in neeed of a bezel for the speedo. Any ideas. Didn't see them in JP Cycles.

This is going to be difficult to find. Maybe someone has an old speedometer and would be willing to donate it? I will look to see if I have one. If I do, you are welcome to it if you pay the postage.

What type of paint for the frame and tins. I have read alot about epoxy primer and sealer but not sure about the top coat and clear coat. How do I find out the original colors of this model. I would like to keep it stock. Original paint is metal flake blue. Maybe another stock color would look better.
I am an absolute believer in PPG products! I highly recommend them to anyone who wants to put a professional finish on their bike. I have no connection with PPG myself, other than being a satisfied user of their fine products.
To start with, surface prep is everything.
After sanding to the bare metal,
First I wash the (steel) parts with DX-579 metal cleaner, mixed 1:2 with water. Allow to react for 3 minutes, keeping the surface wet.

Next I use DX-520 metal prep straight from the bottle to 'pickle' the metal. This is an acid mix that is safe to use without gloves. Rinse with water after 3 minutes of coverage. Rinse with water.

Dry the work and prime it asap.
I use PPG DPLF Epoxy Primer in your choice of color. (Black, White, Red Oxide, Gray, or Blue) Pick a color close to what you will use for the color coat.
Prepare according to instructions. I use the catalyst DP-402LF because it does not require a 'wait time' before spraynig. You can use DP-401LF but you must wait for 30 minutes before spraying the primer on. I spray 2 coats of primer.
The DP-402LF has a pot life of 8 hrs at 70°F.
The DP-401LF has a pot life of 72 hrs at 70°F.
You should be able to prime everything inside of a couple of hours at most.

After you have applied the primer, you can apply the color when 60 minutes have passed (90 minutes if you used DP-401LF).
Very important point here......You will have a week to apply the color coat. If you wait longer than a week you must scruff sand the primer, apply another coat of primer and then do the color coat within another week.

I use PPG Color Concept urethane (called DCC) and mix it with DCX 61 as the catalyst, along with a small amount of reducer.
Here is the ratio:
DCC ..............4 parts
DT Reducer ....2 parts
DCX 61 ..........1 part
Pot life is 1 to 3 hrs at 70°F
I spray 2 to 3 coats with 15 minutes between coats.
Dust free in 50 to 70 minutes.
You can apply the clearcoat in 2 hrs.
You now have a total of 72 hrs to clear coat it. Wait longer and you will have to sand it.


I use 2021 Clear for the clearcoat. This is mixed with the DCX 61.
The clear is mixed 4 (2021) + 1 (DT Reducer) + 4 (DCX 61)
I do not apply more than 2 wet coats of clear myself. To put it on heavier is to invite cracking or crazing later on.
If your blue paint is original, just take a fender to your PPG dealer and he will match it prefectly.........pg

 

Hotrod351
Thanks for the info. Did not see any covers for the 73. See you are in AZ. Me too.

Piniongear
I thought that chroming the forks would be a problem. Just hate to leave them buffed and have them oxidize later. I always hated keeping them shined up. Originally they were clear coated but of course it faded out and looked terrible. I'll do a little more investigation. There is so much aluminum that needs to be buffed out. I did one of the spokes today and I'm not sure if it is chrome or not. A lot of work ahead.

I think your right about the neck races. I just wanted to buff them out and thought it would be easier to take them out but I'll just do the best I can with them on the bike.

If you find the bezel I would be happy to pay the shipping. Can't seem to find them in any catelog.

As far as the paint goes, you gave me alot of information. I've heard of PPG products but don't know who carries the products locally. Is this stuff good and hard, chip resistent for the frame? Not sure if I want to keep the original color. Do you happen to know where I might find info. on the stock colors for that year sporty?
I'm going to print out what you wrote and study it a bit more before I get back to you with any more questions. This is exactly what I needed as far as the paint info. I tire of investigating all the options. Now that you gave me a shove in the right direction I'll go with it.

Thanks for the info you guys, I'll be back!

Ranjet

 

Consider this.....you can always paint the aluminum sliders. Then just apply a little Butter Wax when you wax the rest of the bike.

The races I would definitely leave in place.

I do not know where you can find the stock colors for the bike. I have seen it before in various books, but it means little. All you will find is the 1973 XLCH came in Artic White, Azure Blue, Shapphire Green and Black.
Those are just my terms, not what was offered.
The problem is that the names mean nothing. Do you know how many different whites are offered? You cannot count them all. It gets more difficult when you go into the colors.
So it boils down to this.....select what color(s) you like and have a shop mix up the color. If you have a painted item as an example, just take it to the paint shop and they will match it perfectly with their computer mixing equipment.

The paint I used on my Sporty was PPG Deltron Color Concept (called DCC).
This stuff is almost as hard as powder coat. OK, be aware there is no free lunch in this world, so the trade off is this......
The DCC is super hard, but the trade off is it chips fairly easy. I painted my frame and tins with DCC Rio Red and it is mostly chip free after 8 years on the road (4500 miles).
I also painted my motorcycle trailer with DCC Rio Red and the fenders are fairly well stone chipped after towing it close to 20,000 miles.
There are other types of PPG paint that are less likely to chip, but they are not nearly as hard either. I prefer DCC and would not use any other paint myself, but you may want to talk with a paint supplier about that decision.
If you go to PPG website you can download the product catalogs for the different paint and products. The DCC catalog is number P168. Other products carry similar catalog numbers.
The catalyst sheets available are only the MSDS (stating the the hazards present), not instructions for the catalyst. You get that with the color catalogs.
The paint catalogs have full instructions on how to mix the paint, catalyst and reducer, how to spray it on, how long it takes to dry, when you can recoat it, etc. All you have to do is follow these instructions to a tee and you will have the most professional job you ever hoped to get.
http://corporateportal.ppg.com/NA/Re...PPGRefinish/EN

Just wade through the clicking necessary to find the catalogs and download what you are interested in.
You may also want to locate a dealer close to you. Just type in dealer in the space on the home page and hit search.
I found a dozen dealers within 100 miles of Phoenix.
Let me know if you have any other questions..........pg

PS: I will check on that Speedo. No promises, but I may still have it.

 

ranjet - you can get your forks and other aluminum parts chromed but they will have to be fully disassembled to do so. The bushings in the forks aren't a problem since the chrome shop should plug the ends prior to plating. Talk to them about your concerns so they know what you want. An alternative on your forks is to polish them out or put a brushed finish on them with a scotchbright pad and have your powder coater apply a clear. Don't have any engine parts cleared with paint or powder coat since the heat will cause it to darken... especially with that cast iron engine of yours.

If your neck bearing cups are bad now is the time to replace them. Clean the races good and inspect for pitting. Even if you put in new bearings, pitted races will make the handlebar movement feel rough. I've removed and replaced many, many bearing cups since they must be out for powder coating. I use a 3 lb brass mallet and 3/4" brass drift. It takes some work to get them started but then they go relatively quick. When the end of the drift gets all chewed up just use a hacksaw or sawsall to trim the end off. Brass will clog up a file or grinding wheel.

 

Piniongear
Went to the PPG website. Lots of info. Didn't find the product catalog for Deltron but there is a dealer here in town. Thanks again

Powercoater
Never heard of a clear powercoat. Does it last? The sun here in AZ really beats up everything. I think I still want to chrome. I have the tripple tree top and bottom cleaned and did some buffing but I think I want to chrome the whole front end.

Does anybody know what tool I need to take out the guts of the shock absorber. There is an allen bolt on the lower end but I need something to stick down the slider to hold it while I unscrew the allen bolt. If you can see the diagram, I think I have to hold part "C" through the fork tube (13). Not really sure how to do this part.

Thanks
Ranjet

 

Ranjet......
Try this link for the Deltron catalogs:
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProduc...c-04551702a5df
Click on basecoats, clearcoats etc.
You can also get the catalogs from your local paint supply dealer as well.

For the fork tool you seek, you may try looking for it at J&P Cycles.
Part number (OEM) 94556-73. Failing that I suggest you make your own tool. Start with a socket that fits into the tube and then modify it as needed to grab the end of the shock absorber tube.
This is shown in your manual under special tools.......pg

 

Clear powder coat is as durable as any other colored powder.

 

Hotrod351
I'll check into the powder clear coat. Still would have to get out the seal because of the heat used in the powder coat process. I really want to chrome it and be done though. Thanks.

PG
Thanks, I just put a slothead screwdriver on the end of a long socket extension and got it to hold. So I got everything out except the seal in the slider (see pics). Is there a trick to getting out the seal? I don't want to chew it up trying to get it out, especially if I can't find a replacement. After I get the seal out, I don't see why I can't chrome it. Just the bushing in there. I can see if I can seal off the ends before chroming or would the thickness of the chrome really make a difference in the size of the bushing? Other problems?