Ah, I see now. With dual fire, isn't it sort of redundant to have two individual plug wires? That is, technically there wouldn't be any difference between two individual wires, or one "Y" shaped one. Not that I would try this, just hypothetical of course! So when the points make contact, they send juice to the coil, which simultaneously fires both plugs. Or something like that, anyway.

My bike is a 1983. As it has been explained to me, this bike HAD an electronic ignition. However, the first owner saw fit to convert it back to points, and they remain to this day.

So given that info., this means that I probably had VOES once upon a time, but that even if the module is still hiding on the bike somewhere, it's dead useless - correct?

Funny you should mention - spot on. That breather hose comes from about the 10:00 position up to the carb. I will have to check out where it connects on the S&S itself to confirm the rest. I vaguely remember hearing something about this breather needing to bypass the filter, etc. etc., but I can't remember to what end.

So, what are these "weights"? Is there something hiding behind that timing plate? Or are you referring to the "weight" exerted by the spring on the points?

Appreciate all the info. Mick.


- Al

 

It is common that these bikes were converted to points. The EIs were unreliable, and "everyone" knew how to tune with points.

The weights are part of the points setup.

The VOES would have been mounted between the cylinders, above the intake manifold, using the top manifold bolt. It is an odd shape, a few inches long and an inch or so the other way. Two wires, one to ground the other to the EI module. Useless with points ignition.

The EI module was mounted to the frame, under the side cover next to the battery.

The vent hose bypasses the filter so that it does not get mucked up with oil mist etc. There is a slinger washer on the end of the generator shaft and a valve in the gearcase cover where the hose comes out that is supposed to separate the oil mist from the air, but messy oil mist gets thru anyway.

 

Ah, this oil mist will be why sometimes I have a bit of nasty residue in my carburetor area, yes? It does have a mounting port on the S&S that bypasses the A/C, by the way.

So, do you mean to tell me the stock EI for these was shoddy, so owner #1 probably converted back to points? On that same note, are the newer EI's more reliable, and would it be worth my time / effort / money to invest in one in the future?

Seems to me a well-maintained set of points will probably last me a long time. And, since a new condenser / points can be had for circa ten bucks, the pricing sure seems competitive.

- Al

 

The earlier EIs, 1980, were unreliable. I believe they fixed the problem by 1983. But i do not really know. I was not into bikes back then and can only pass on what i have learned in the past few years from these forums. Many guys were not comfy with the EI and changed it out.

With points you can carry spare parts and tune/fix it at the roadside. EI is better in many ways, mostly technical. I choose EI myself. The Hi-4 and the Ultima are good units as are others.

 

My '83 still has the "shoddy" stock EI and it works fine...

Sure beats fooling with points and condensers all the time.

 

Finally have some time to myself, and I'm about to tinker with my timing. So, after thumbing through my manual, it indicated that (sure enough) 1983-1985 models should be checked off the front cylinder at 1,300 rpm's. So, the question I have is, is this related to the EI? My sporty has been pulled back to the points and condensers, so if this has a bearing on what RPM I should check the timing at, that can make a big difference.

For now, going to tinker. Things just don't run smooth enough for my liking yet.

Thanks for any feedback in advance.

- Al

Afterthought: If my advance was out of whack, what kind of symptoms would I expect to find?

 

In my experience it is easier and more accurate to check the timing at 2500 RPM or even a little higher. At the lower RPM the timing mark will not sit still in the timing hole. This is regardless of whether it is EI or points.

Have you seen this YouTube video on setting ignition timing with points?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKVh4pbyh2A

 

No kidding, this guy did his timing without a light at all. I'm kind of curious, and I'll have to try this out on mine to see how it pans out.

I did adjust my timing today. I'll reserve full judgement pending a highway road test, but looking optimistic. On inspection, the timing plate was rotated almost completely clockwise. I found, as I approached about the center of the plate's adjustment range, suddenly things sure seemed to feel more "right" with the bike. Sounded smoother, throatier, and a 3 mile test drive didn't yield any more hiccuping from my carb.

On the other hand, inspection of my rear rocker box showed me I'll have to replace BOTH my box cover gaskets. I'm told I don't actually have to pull the motor out to do this - I can apparently pull the head off, do the head gasket, do the rockerbox gaskets, and then put everything back. Anyone have experience with this method? Saves me some steps, and I've got a mind to try it.

- Al

 

not sure on your 83, but my late 84 i can get both rocker boxes off without puling the heads, just have to be careful and go at it slow!back one is tight but it goes, before you start taking it apart go over the rockers and make sure everything is tight, may find some loose bolts?

 

Yes, first re-tighten the bolts when the engine is hot. Note that for the front you can remove just the rocker cover - the cylinder head does not need to come off.

In general with these bikes you must remove the rear rocker cover and cylinder head together, then separate them on the bench. But as ShepDog says, some can come off separately. On my '78, and on the '80 that i had previously, they must come off together. Note the position of the bolts with respect to the frame, and the space between the bolt head and the frame.